Hola. I need to purchase a header for my swap what do you guys recomend?? I want to stay cheap. If I have to get a cat so be it but we will see.
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Header? EBAY? H22a cb7 coupe
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I'd get a DC Sport with a high flow cat. Or a tri-Y. Still, you're going to want something decent.
Don't buy that crap from DNA or generic eBay other shit. You'll be happy in the long run to dish out the extra $150 or so to not wind up with cracked primaries a month later due to shitty materials, welds, and fitment.
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Originally posted by F22Chris View PostI'd get a DC Sport with a high flow cat. Or a tri-Y. Still, you're going to want something decent.
Don't buy that crap from DNA or generic eBay other shit. You'll be happy in the long run to dish out the extra $150 or so to not wind up with cracked primaries a month later due to shitty materials, welds, and fitment.
To the OP i would say; if you just want the looks and minimal to no power increment while paying the least amount possible then eBay stuff will do, although i would probably would rather find a used set of DC instead. If power is what you seek then Ebay generics are not what you need. Its a pick your tool for the job type thing.
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@crankshaft
Dude, I completely agree on not buying the most expensive thing from that certain seller selling $1,000 exhaust leaks. Most eBay headers are around $100, which is why I said dish the extra for a DC or the like. Ive had great experiences with Megan.
PLM or kiddracing is who I was referring to for the Try-Y. Though that'll run OP like $500.
Did you post about your suspension mishap?
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DC is probably the best "generic" design you're going to find. Their build quality is definitely good, which is the reason it's worth paying more for something that will perform power-wise about the same as a cheap-o ebay piece of crap. I see OBX and Megan as being mid-range in terms of the generics. They're largely copies of the DC design (not exact, but the similarities are there.) They'll be more likely to last and not leak than the true cheap junk.
Hell, even kiddracing is a knockoff, I believe! I'm pretty sure that's a copy of the HyTech header. There are a few HyTech knockoffs out there, as well as a number of copies of the old RMF design (which Bisimoto claims is stolen from them... I call BS, though. Randy was a standup guy from all other accounts.)
Anyway, for a higher-end header, HyTech would probably be my choice for the H22A, unless I could get my hands on a Mugen or Feel's header.
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A header wouldn't cause a squealing... whistling, maybe.
OBX technically is "ebay", as is Megan... but they're a little better.
The biggest problem with cheap junk is inconsistency. Some are going to be great, some will be total garbage. The chances of garbage increase as you buy cheaper, lesser known stuff. For some things, it can be worth the risk. I'd risk it on a header, since my safety or the safety of my engine aren't at stake.
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Try finding a Fujitsubo (FGK), Limit A/X (Tanabe), Mugen, or any other JASMA approved header. They are a bit pricier, but fitment and quality is top notch. And being that they are not US spec, they do flow better, and actually make power, since they have a larger collector than DC or most generic stuff. I got lucky and scored a Fujitsubo for $120.
(I'm in the process of getting it polished and looking brand new again)
Putting my FGK side by side next to my friend's H22 headers, the difference is pretty crazy. He has a 1320 Performance Tri-Y, and another buddy had his PLM sitting there too. While their setups might make more power, they definitely don't have the craftsmanship the FGK does. The piping walls are much thicker, the welds are MUCH better, and overall fit and finish on the FGK trumps the others.Last edited by Corweena; 06-05-2017, 01:57 AM.
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Originally posted by EastCoastLife View Postthank you for all the helpfull info. my next question is do i order a prelude header? for my H22a swapped cb7 or.....
sorry if thats a stupid question
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only mentioning this for future user reference, not an endorsement for power or gains or longevity of the product.
i bought the 4" rolled tip exhaust from "speed daddy" and it came from dna motors, who have been mentioned in this thread.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/4-ROLLED-MUFFL...%257Ciid%253A1
this was a purchase to get exhaust on a car, no more no less. cheapest option compared to walker oem replacement which is what i bought the first time for a car that is rarely driven (my cd5 accord). car is not modded, this was not a go fast purchase. less than 2 year old walker replacement oem exhaust failed already that cost me twice as much as this one.
walker exhaust was like jb welded together or something, not actually welded?! Junk, seriously.
speed daddy, all though the tig welds look hot and quickly done, they are solid and back purged correctly and fittment is perfect. well, maybe the muffler sticks out an inch more than id like, but whatever. routing under the car and aligning with the cst converter was spot on and the muffler itself actually doesnt loom terrible for a $100 ebay jobby.
the ebay "junk" doesnt actually sound that bad either. quality hardware to put it all together too.
not endorsing the product to be amazing or anything, but if you are looking for something better than nothing, at $112.95 shipped i think its a worthy product. certainly cheaper than walker oem replacement and built 10x better. all diameters match oem size, so literally no gains to be made here. also, my dc header has same sized runner diameter as cd5 accord f22b1 header. so, dc might not yiekd shit. just pointing that out. measure what you have and go from there.Originally posted by wed3kim a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.
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