Originally posted by deevergote
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ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!
Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)
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The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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Synthetic motor oil vs conventional
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My OPINION;
I wouldn't switch to synthetic on a higher mileage vehicle. The benefits of a synthetic oil are already pointless if the majority of the engines life has been run on conventional. Some may disagree, and that's fine if their findings are different.
In every car I've owned, I have switched to synthetic (real synthetic, not the ones that claim to be), and in every single case I have noticed an oil leak that wasn't there previously. I don't mind. I just fix the leaks.
Synthetic oil will not "cause" leaks, at least not in the manner that some people say it does. Synthetic oil will not destroy gaskets or rubber. Synthetic oil has detergents. Those detergents break down sludge that conventional oil has built up over the years. Some of that sludge is acting like a dam on an already aged gasket or o-ring. It's like when you pull your girlfriends hairpie out of the shower drain... once that sludge is gone, liquids are able to pass through any available route.
People think it's a bad thing, but I like knowing when gaskets need to be changed and don't mind replacing a $5-$20 gasket.
On a high mileage or older car, the chance of leaking is much higher, and you may find some of those gaskets piss fluid more rapidly and they aren't an easy fix. In that case, sometimes just sticking to conventional is the better route. Do you really want a rear main seal leak? I'd prefer not.
I just bought a 94 with 46k miles and the P/O just did a synthetic oil change from previously using conventional. In this case, mileage wasn't even a factor. The age of the engine alone was enough to warrant oil leaks, as I would assume most of the gaskets and o-rings are original. That's a long time for rubber to dry out. Now I'm looking for a leak, and unfortunately for me it looks like a main seal.
If you are already dead set on 3k mile oil changes, just continue using conventional. The added protection of synthetic, in my opinion, will not have any added benefits if you are strict about your oil change intervals.CC2 Vigor.
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Conventional oil has detergents as well, though synthetic does tend to loosen deposits, and find leaks more easily.
You're absolutely right, though. If you change your oil every 3000 miles (which is WAY too soon, IMO), there's no benefit to synthetic oil. Weight reduction, perhaps, as your wallet will be lighter. Otherwise, no benefit. No real added protection, except MAYBE on cold starts (though conventional oil of the proper weight should lubricate just fine.)
My 2009 Fit would go 10,000+ between changes on synthetic. It only required conventional oil. Synthetic gave me that extra mileage between changes. Since I was doing up to 2000 miles per week, that saved me a LOT of time.
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostConventional oil has detergents as well, though synthetic does tend to loosen deposits, and find leaks more easily.
You're absolutely right, though. If you change your oil every 3000 miles (which is WAY too soon, IMO), there's no benefit to synthetic oil. Weight reduction, perhaps, as your wallet will be lighter. Otherwise, no benefit. No real added protection, except MAYBE on cold starts (though conventional oil of the proper weight should lubricate just fine.)
My 2009 Fit would go 10,000+ between changes on synthetic. It only required conventional oil. Synthetic gave me that extra mileage between changes. Since I was doing up to 2000 miles per week, that saved me a LOT of time.CC2 Vigor.
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Interesting. I always assumed "full synthetic" actually meant full synthetic! Now I have to research this some more.
With a new car, especially one that doesn't take synthetic from the factory, always let it break in properly before doing any changes. A new engine will come with "break-in oil", which should remain for about 5,000 miles in the case of my Fit. To be safe, I changed it out for conventional oil for the first 15-20k miles. Then I switched to synthetic. That's the only time I'd say it would be risky to switch.
And, as you said, switching a high mileage engine to synthetic when it has used conventional all its life could cause (or reveal) issues. It mainly depends on your intentions for the car. Leaks found by synthetic will eventually manifest with conventional, only probably more seriously by the time that happens.
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostConventional oil has detergents as well, though synthetic does tend to loosen deposits, and find leaks more easily.
You're absolutely right, though. If you change your oil every 3000 miles (which is WAY too soon, IMO), there's no benefit to synthetic oil. Weight reduction, perhaps, as your wallet will be lighter. Otherwise, no benefit. No real added protection, except MAYBE on cold starts (though conventional oil of the proper weight should lubricate just fine.)
My 2009 Fit would go 10,000+ between changes on synthetic. It only required conventional oil. Synthetic gave me that extra mileage between changes. Since I was doing up to 2000 miles per week, that saved me a LOT of time.
This is the only reason I use synthetic, especially with my tundra and having to take off the skid plate to access the oil filter.~Nick~
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93
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If you do it every 3,000 miles it is. You're spending $60 every 3,000, rather than $30. Some people religiously change their oil every 3,000 (I believe the OP said he did.)
If you extend your change interval with synthetic, then yes, it evens out. That's why it's beneficial to do so, especially if you put a lot of miles on your car over a short period of time (as I did with my Fit.)
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostIf you do it every 3,000 miles it is. You're spending $60 every 3,000, rather than $30. Some people religiously change their oil every 3,000 (I believe the OP said he did.)
If you extend your change interval with synthetic, then yes, it evens out. That's why it's beneficial to do so, especially if you put a lot of miles on your car over a short period of time (as I did with my Fit.)
I buy Mobil 1 oil on sale at Costco in a 6-pack case which usually breaks down to $4.79/qt. There is a promo right now at O'Reilly's for Castrol GTX Conventional 5 Quarts & a MicroGard Filter for $23.99 which interestingly breaks down to $4.79/qt too.
Since I have a cases of Honda filters the MicroGard is useless to me but they won't discount the price without it. Even so the Mobil 1 price of $4.79/qt vs $23.99 for Castrol GTX is the same price per quart for what may arguably be a superior oil regardless of the oil change frequency.
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostI just pay to have mine done. 10 minutes vs. 2 hours and hassle... synthetic is about $60, conventional is about $35.
But I get it not everyone wants to (or is able to) crawl under a car and get dirty...
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Originally posted by hiptech View PostNot sure where everybody's getting their oil from but here is what I find...
I buy Mobil 1 oil on sale at Costco in a 6-pack case which usually breaks down to $4.79/qt. There is a promo right now at O'Reilly's for Castrol GTX Conventional 5 Quarts & a MicroGard Filter for $23.99 which interestingly breaks down to $4.79/qt too.
Since I have a cases of Honda filters the MicroGard is useless to me but they won't discount the price without it. Even so the Mobil 1 price of $4.79/qt vs $23.99 for Castrol GTX is the same price per quart for what may arguably be a superior oil regardless of the oil change frequency.
I just figure if I'm buying something for what it says it is, then I want those benefits. No point in paying more for snake oil if I can help it.
If I find the article I will post it here.
Good topic by the way.CC2 Vigor.
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Originally posted by Vermonter View PostI honestly can't remember the details of which brands are true synthetic or not, but there are big name brands that claim to be fully synthetic and they are not. Just one of the wonderful things about USA marketing, we get to lie about stuff and sell it to the ignorant. By no means am I calling anyone dumb, just saying it's easy to be fooled if you don't do extensive research to find this stuff out. Back when I researched it, there were only 3 or 4 of the major brands that actually sold the synthetic oil they were advertising. The rest were blends of dino and synthetic being marketed as fully synthetic. Royal Purple has always been a fully synthetic oil, and the price shows it. Although you can go about 15k miles between changes, so you are really saving money in the end.
I just figure if I'm buying something for what it says it is, then I want those benefits. No point in paying more for snake oil if I can help it.
If I find the article I will post it here.
Good topic by the way.
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