hey guys just wrapping up my h23a vtec swap, and im running into issues with the oil pan.... from what ive gathered it is a bit bigger than an h22 pan, and shares the same part numbers from an f23 vtec? i got a generic ebay header for a 97-01 prelude, and its hitting the pan and not letting me bolt it up. i dont have any clearance issues with the front crossmember either. does the 92-96 header have a longer bottom section where it bolts to the top section and starts to make the bend under the oil pan? i know the 92-96 is longer in general going to the cat. i do have a spare h23a1 pan and pickup i thought about swapping but it doesnt hold as much oil as the h23a vtec oem pan, would this cause issues? or what headers clear this pan?! any input would be great, i need to see this thing run !!!!
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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Help with H23A Blue Top
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The H23 Vtec and the Euro-R H22 use the F23 oil pan and pickup tube. The shape of the pan is opposite of a normal H22 oil pan. To use oil pan as it's installed, you would need to mate a F23 down pipe to the H22 header primaries. Changing the oil pan and pickup tube will solve the down pipe/oil pan interference issue and allow you to use the H22 down pipe.
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I am not sure if the H23 Blue Top used the standard H23 con rods which would have the orifice that negates the oil squirters. If it does, that might be the reason. If it does have oil squirters the oil pan and pickup tube should be a simple swap.
@raf: I meant that the shape changes fore/aft on the oil pan sump. The F23 oil pan sump is wider towards the rear of the engine, whereas the H22 oil pan sump is wider at the front of the engine.
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The best thing to do is search for part numbers. I have found a number of JDM part numbers after a few minutes of Google searching. Look for parts dealers in Taiwan or Malaysia. They seem to be the most commonly found, from my experience. Once you have a part number for the H23A, you'll be able to cross-reference it with all other Honda engines. It comes in handy.
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thanks for all the input guys!!! i swapped the H23a1 pan and pickup over, and same issue, same spot ... Never used a 97-01 prelude header on any of my h swaps ive done, so im just going to make it real easy and have it extended about 1" at the 3 bolt flange that meets the top half of the manifold, should be good, well see how ground clearance looks.. maybe fab up a plate given clearance.
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still having issues...new battery, new starter, not getting power to the solenoid wire at the starter, tried jumping it and it wont spin the motor... motor spins at the crank by turning with a socket -- motor isnt seized. popping fuse 9 (starter signal) i can hear some relays clicking when the fuse is good. voltage drops to 2volts when manually jumping the starter. any ideas? is there a starter relay under the dash? anyone have any wiring diagrams i could nerd out on?
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Originally posted by jross360 View Poststill having issues...new battery, new starter, not getting power to the solenoid wire at the starter, tried jumping it and it wont spin the motor... motor spins at the crank by turning with a socket -- motor isnt seized. popping fuse 9 (starter signal) i can hear some relays clicking when the fuse is good. voltage drops to 2volts when manually jumping the starter. any ideas? is there a starter relay under the dash? anyone have any wiring diagrams i could nerd out on?
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got it started, it was a grounding issue within the chassis, and the starter circuit. ran a home run 4ga ground straight to the tranny ground (batt is in trunk) so it starts, but getting a weird CEL for ECT, got a new one today going to throw it in, but it runs like garbage. I have two maps, one from phearable that i had them make to my standards, and another that was in the car when i got the motor, it was running an h23. with the phearable map in the motor turns on and then goes straight to 4k and hits my 2 step, the h23 map makes it surge from 1000-3000 and giving any throttle shows big hesitation. no vaccuum leaks, new plugs and wires, dizzy is used good condition h23, switch to h23a map and tb so the tps and map match the motor, still nothing but getting cel for ECT. any ideas? would a bad ECT make it run this bad?
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