will A6 cam and springs on A1 bottom end require a ecu from an A6 as well ?

[Mar10]

i am currently about to be replacing my head gasket on my A1 and i am curious if i should upgrade my cam and valve springs to A6 versions because i have them in my garage right now. I am not putting the A6 intake manifold on right now because it is currently in the process of being ported but anyhow my question would be what ecu to run with that setup (A6 cam and springs & new valves on a cleaned up head with a minor polish on the intake and ehaust ports) i have a k&n element on a stock intake with some okay headers and both the A1 and A6 ECUs, im curious if not having that extra air from the A6 intake manifold will make the car run incorrect with A6 ecu cam springs and A1 manifold, or just keep the A1 cam and springs in until i can put the ported A6 manifold and just do it all at once like i was originally planning on doing before my headgasket blew? thanks guys.

[Phxcb7]

Personally ive done this already on my Accord. A6 cam in a1 head. Didn't change the springs. Unless your going above redline than I would swap springs. I also did the a6 intake at the same time so I can really tell you what the car would run like. Ive also used the pt3, p12, and pt6 ecu with this setup. Honestly the pt6 ecu felt the best for the car. especially since that ecu was programmed for the cam and intake.

[Mar10]

cool thanks for the input im actually just considering just saving the fresh head and re using my old one now and just changing the head gasket i know im probably not gonna like the look of what i see but id rather just put a fresh engine in instead of half here and half there i just need to have some patience. so have you ran the pt6 on a stock A1 would that be better then the stock ecu or does it only become useful with the intake and cam?

[deevergote]

The PT6 (A6 ECU) is designed to run the engine with the A6 camshaft and IAB-equipped intake manifold. Without one or the other, it won't be right. However, neither the PT3 nor the PT6 will do any harm with the A6 camshaft and A1 intake manifold. The differences aren't so drastic that anything will be damaged. Run whichever feels best.

Why are you porting the A6 manifold? Why not just get an H23A1 manifold?

Also, just because it always bugs me... the F22A only has one header.

[Mar10]

cool thank you very much got the head off last night now i am just finishing cleaning stuff up and getting it ready to go back togather im assuming use fresh head studs being that i have them luckily from this A6 engine i have in my garage that i am rebuilding i am thinking ill just use the new gasket and bolts for now and them get a honda gasket and arp bolts later on for the A6 build i could use the cam i guess if itlines up with the marks i made on the other do you have any input on switching the cams and makink the timing stay ??

[deevergote]

You'll have to set your timing properly. The cam gear is keyed, so utilize the TDC marks on the gear and crank pulley to properly set your timing. Don't just mark where the old things were, as you're guaranteed to be off by a tooth or more if you only rely on that. If you don't know how to set the timing, get your hands on a manual and read up before you mess with it. I don't want to go into detail here, for fear of missing something (it's been a LONG time since I've even thought about this stuff!) Being an interference engine, you could do some major damage if your valve timing is off significantly.

[Mar10]

cool thanks a lot i appreciate that i have two manuals but the both dont specifically have "Head gasket" replacement tutotorials in them they have assembly and disassembly of the head and timing also obviously just didnt think it through yet so i greatly appreciate that i am gonna grab a water pump gasket and use this water pump from the other motor i have as well then too. and start timing it.

[Phxcb7]

You'll have to set your timing properly. The cam gear is keyed, so utilize the TDC marks on the gear and crank pulley to properly set your timing. Don't just mark where the old things were, as you're guaranteed to be off by a tooth or more if you only rely on that. If you don't know how to set the timing, get your hands on a manual and read up before you mess with it. I don't want to go into detail here, for fear of missing something (it's been a LONG time since I've even thought about this stuff!) Being an interference engine, you could do some major damage if your valve timing is off significantly.

I would have to agree with deev. Only way ive ever seen anyone do it the way your saying was on a turbo d17. He was swapping the cam out so what he did was zip tied the cam pulley to the belt in like 4 spots. didn't move the crank pulley or anything. Just unbolted the cam gear and slid gear off keeping timing the same. Just swapped cams and since the cam has only one key way and can only be installed one way he slid the gear back on. He was very knowledgeable and had that car for years and done so much with it. But even than id rather just be safe and do the timing properly. Its not to hard. Once you've done it a couple times its all the same.

[deevergote]

Honestly, the best thing to do is invest in a Helm manual (www.helminc.com, if they still print them for the CB7. If not, try ebay.) It's the factory shop manual, and will have detailed instructions and diagrams for every single thing. I tried to get by with a Haynes (bad) and Chiltons (worse) for years. Using those things was like trying to eat soup with a butter knife. When I finally got my Helm manual, it was as if someone had just handed me the world's best spoon!

Helm manuals aren't cheap, but the amount of time, frustration, and money they'll save you in the long run will make them more than worth it. EASILY the best tool I ever bought.

[Phxcb7]

I don't remember where I found it on line. But I have an entire Honda accord and integra Honda/acura manual. I just googled it and found it somewhere. Those are the best ones. Csnt go wrong with The Honda Manuals. Just make sure you got room though. I Put them on my tablet. WAY over 1g for both. over 1000+ pages for each manual.

[deevergote]

The old CB7tuner Facebook group had the manual hosted... but that has since been locked due to the infuriating lack of maturity expressed there. They are available online if you search, though a paper manual is usually easier to navigate. All the copies of the manuals I've found in PDF form have been unsearchable scans... so you really have to search manually. It's easier to do that with a paper manual! Plus, if Helm still prints them, it would be better to support them... because, you know, if you don't support the companies producing the good stuff, they'll stop producing the good stuff!
HondaHookUp.com may still have manuals. They used to be a good source for them. It's risky to host copyrighted material, though (which is why we don't do it here.)

[Mar10]

helms manual huh ounds good and that way ill have the haynes chilton and helms and should be able to figure out what ever from the three combined. so anyways here is a little update as to where i am at in this process (first i wanna start by saying i know that all of this is due to my lack of attention and carelessness especially knowing how many times my car overheated in the last month let alone week of driving) so anyways i put the head on the first time and it was leaking so i took it all back apart started over and did it again re checking my work and steps changing the process a little by doing things the second time around that i should have done first anyways like cleaning the mating surfaces better and chasing all the head threads clean using oil on the head of the studs as well and also rtv on the timing side area all which i didnt do the first time and it still was leaking in the same spot out of the back driverside corner right on top of the waterpump area so i am figuring my head is warped, so luckily i have another head that i was planning on getting machined and what not at the same time i got the block machined but i went and baught a straight edge and tested it and it seems to be good i cant fit .002 worth of feeler gauge inbetween anywhere on the straightedge so i am gonna get this head off and check the block and hope and pray that that isnt warped as well. what are the chances the block warps pretty likely or is it a lot harderto warp the block?also i have an exhaust stud that broke off in the head so i was trying to remove it and the extractor broke off in the hole so i was gonna try and drill it all out and heli-coil it but the extractor is toohard of metal i think because it wont fucking drill out and it started to make the hole oblong so i just stopped and i figured as for now i am in need of my car badly its my only car and im missing work without it so i was thinking it is better to run a head with an exhaust leak then a headgasket leaking or warped head and then ill just try and get the head that i am gonna take out thats warped machined this week and put it back in because ultimately this head that i have extra right now in my garage had 250,000 miles on it compared to my 350,000 miles on my warped head and the warped one was way cleaner internally then the lower mileage engine so my frequent oil changes and running chevron plus or the past year seems to be paying off. any input / advice would be appreciated about the exhaust studsituation as well and i am curious ecause neither of my manuals says anything about this but when i am checking my timing or just setting it to tdc i see in the little check hole on the flywheel the numbers 1 and then 15 i am assuming that 1is the one that you wanna allign it with but nt positive so anyinfo on that topic as well would be awesome. thanks guys.