Mountain carving 92LX wagon (go ahead, laugh)

[Tishock]

For example, KYB doesn't make anything for the CB that is designed for a drop lower than 1.5" (and their GR2 shocks are only good for a spring rate up to 15% over stock.)

I really like Bilstein, and they may very well be the highest quality shock manufacturer out there that makes parts for the CB (they are generally regarded as better than Koni, and Koni is pretty damn good.) I've always been hesitant to recommend them due to the lack of documentation, and the fairly high pricetag that they carry. I don't count personal experience as evidence, as I've heard plenty of people report "success" with other mismatched components ('dude, my GR2s are fine with my 3" Sprint springs!')

FYI. I'm adding this because there are people out there that still think these are an upgrade

http://www.kyb.com/knowledge-center/...el-g-products/

What is the difference between the KYB GR-2 and the Excel-G products?

We apologize that this is a bit confusing. Both products are identical, except for the product name and paint color. KYB sells products throughout the world. Some part numbers fit vehicles from various countries that share the same chassis platform but, have different nameplates. At one time there were several KYB brand names, but we are now moving toward one name and color. So in the future all new part numbers will be branded as Excel-G and have black paint.

[lbus9168]

I set my Konis to full stiff for drag racing once. Forgot to turn them down when I left the track, and I was too tired to notice. Got up for work the next day, got in my car... and before I reached the end of my street I was seriously regretting it! Felt like I was driving a go-kart. Bumps were painful, and worse, the car wanted to skitter around every time it hit a bump.

It's really awful! It totally throws out the handling characteristics of a car. I've tried it once in my old prelude. Never again.

[cb9love]

I have to throw my two cents in for the koni yellow, eibach spring, prothane master bushing kit.
Those and the ultra racing strut tower bars, all quality products that should have you carving corners in no time.

If that's not enough for you, the prelude 5 lug conversion using the lower control arms and front radius rods will really have you carving corners, but is not a good idea for inexperienced drivers due to the exaggerated turn in and willingness too over steer.

[wagon-r]

At some point in the past, Tire Rack tested the Koni yellows on a Lexus with OEM suspension, once with the struts at full soft, and a second time with the struts at full hard. I just looked and I couldn't find any of their suspension tests on their website, so I guess they have taken these down. But I still have my notes.

Going from full soft to full hard, lap times on their autocross course dropped from 32.09 seconds to 31.95 seconds and their subjective road "handling" rating increased from 7.48 to 7.89. However, "ride comfort" dropped from 7.09 to 4.90. Thus, minimal handling improvements for the greatly deteriorated ride.

Still, it suggests there may be a sweet spot somewhere between full soft and full hard where the handling is significantly better than at full soft. It also allows you to set the rears harder than the fronts, which I have been told (3rd party unverified information) can help reduce oversteer.

[lbus9168]

Your supposed to set up stiffness with correct spring rates.

[Chrisnick]

Not only that, but Koni suggests turning them back a quarter to half turn from full stuff. The adjuster isn't a linear curve, and really only the middle of the adjustment range does anything.

[ukemike]

Your supposed to set up stiffness with correct spring rates.

The best money you could spend would be on a set of Dunlop Direzza Star Spec IIs. Our race car had destroyed shocks and stock springs in our first race at Sonoma but with wicked fat direzzas we were pulling 1g through the long turns. (Calculated not measured).