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HELP Steering wheel LOCKED

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    HELP Steering wheel LOCKED

    Bought a 1990 cb7 at an auction. No key. Got her into neutral but can't steer it to tow it home. Any way to unlock wheel without pulling ignition cylinder?

    #2
    sorry, we don't allow these kinds of answers, especially in the beginner section from someone with 4 posts. Accords are already one of the most stolen cars in the country, we don't need to make it even easier.

    Click for my Member's Ride Thread
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      #3
      take your bill of sale and VIN # to the dealer and have them cut a key. bam! two problems solved, you can steer and not have to tow it.

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        #4
        SteelbluesleepR, I didn't think about what that implied... I don't want my car stolen either and I appreciate your professional reluctance to just answer that kind of question on a beginner's forum. I'm gonna try the dealership route- thanks Illinois Erik

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          #5
          So check this out, I was actually able to contact the former owner of the car and they were able to go to the dealership and make me a new key. I was also able to get that owner some Vital Records such as a social security card and ID card that were left in the car. So the whole dealership thing that I did not even think of definitely works and it was pretty cool to get them their stuff back. Another thing I learned is that when a tire is completely off the rim and flat you can throw a little bit of dish soap along the rim then spray starter fluid around the diameter of the rim and while using a small compressor to fill the flat( taking care to not get burnt) you can ignite the accelerant and use the Heat to assist in the tire "popping" right back onto the rim. Learned that from a trucker, kinda sketchy but definitely worked well when done right.

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            #6
            Glad it worked out in your favor, and Karma points to you for getting those documents back to their owner. lol setting the bead with ether is fun, when i was changing semi tires we used this 5 gallon tank you charge up and it has like a 2 inch ball valve and nozzle you jam in there and pop the valve WHOOSH. I think im kinda deaf now from that and airing down the tires, the valve stems whistle at like 110dB

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              #7
              Car worth trying to start or better off salvaging?

              Cars been sitting for 4 years. Apparently ran and drove just before it was impounded. I'm concerned about old fuel and about the straight pipe which rusted off just down from the resonator. The resonator would be the final exhale point for the exhaust and idk if stuff around the area can will melt from the exhaust or what precautions I should take before attempting to start it. Any suggestions or similar situations? My current t daily driver Accord sat for a year before I bought it but that started, ran, and has been reliable every year since.

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                #8
                Originally posted by Zdubz1993 View Post
                Cars been sitting for 4 years. Apparently ran and drove just before it was impounded. I'm concerned about old fuel and about the straight pipe which rusted off just down from the resonator. The resonator would be the final exhale point for the exhaust and idk if stuff around the area can will melt from the exhaust or what precautions I should take before attempting to start it. Any suggestions or similar situations? My current t daily driver Accord sat for a year before I bought it but that started, ran, and has been reliable every year since.
                before you start it, change the oil, throw a teaspoon of oil down each cylinder let it creep in while doing the change. definitely drain the gas (theres a bolt in the tank) fill it up to full and run it, then expect to change the fuel filter. flush the brake system, if you have ABS flush as normal, turkey baster the fluid from the abs reservoir and add fresh, then work the ABS by activating it with some hard stops on a slippery surface.
                the exhaust issue shouldn't cause any concern if youre driving it "normal" besides ear drum abuse...hmm cant really think of anything else, inspect the tires for checking and dry rot, expect to change them or what have you..

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by illinois_erik View Post
                  before you start it, change the oil, throw a teaspoon of oil down each cylinder let it creep in while doing the change. definitely drain the gas (theres a bolt in the tank) fill it up to full and run it, then expect to change the fuel filter. flush the brake system, if you have ABS flush as normal, turkey baster the fluid from the abs reservoir and add fresh, then work the ABS by activating it with some hard stops on a slippery surface.
                  the exhaust issue shouldn't cause any concern if youre driving it "normal" besides ear drum abuse...hmm cant really think of anything else, inspect the tires for checking and dry rot, expect to change them or what have you..
                  . - so when I add a teaspoon of oil down each cylinder... You mean like remove the spark plug and put oil in the combustion /piston chambers?

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                    #10
                    Exactly! Probably before you start the change, will give it some more time to work in.
                    MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Zdubz1993 View Post
                      . - so when I add a teaspoon of oil down each cylinder... You mean like remove the spark plug and put oil in the combustion /piston chambers?
                      yes sir. if you can afford it new plugs and wires might as well, check the under the dist. cap for rust on the rotor..just little things, since its warm drain the coolant, and refill with distilled water and some vinegar, then drain when you get home, i bet itll look pretty shitty..which is good. then at home, probably the timing belt at least.

                      also turn the heater knob to hot, you dont need to run the fan, itll clean out the heater core.

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                        #12
                        After putting the oil in the cylinders, leave the plugs out and spin it on the starter for a little while to circulate some oil through the engine without any load on it before installing plugs and attempting to start it.

                        I once resurrected a 1974 Cadillac that had sat for 14 years. Did the above, rebuilt the carburetor, fired it up, adjusted the dwell and it ran like a scalded dog!
                        Last edited by Fleetw00d; 05-06-2016, 10:46 PM.
                        90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                        08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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                          #13
                          Is it plausible to just add a bottle of octane booster and a few gallons of new fuel rather than draining the 7.5 gallons? Also, another tip I got for lubing everything was to "unhook coil wire and crank motor for 15 secs, rehook wire and start" ... That would do the same thing as Fleetw00d said right?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I wouldn't rely on an old product to do it. Come on man, it's like what. $50? Just ditch the old stuff. That crap fuel could make so many other things worse just be safe.

                            I think, from memory, most if not all f22a's are internal coil so there's no lead to disconnect. You could pull off the wires, but you still need to take the plugs out to lube the walls so why bother
                            sold! But here's my build thread for those interested.

                            http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206864

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                              #15
                              Gotcha. Yeah not a monetary issue, just checking across the board to see what y'all got to say. Its always good to know what your plugs look like anyhow haha

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