When i turn, it sounds like something connected to my wheels are squealing

[Eno]

Anyone have a clue what that could be? Im pretty sure my 93 accord is all stock up there, probably everywhere. Thanks in advance.

[Granite CB7]

Does it sound like a slipping belt perhaps or does it sound like metal on metal creaking coming from the wheel well? If it comes from the wheel well I would immediately check all the balljoints- upper, lower and outer tie rod ends. I emphasize checking the lower bj's especially since there's alot of stress on those + you do not want that popping out of it's socket while driving!!!

[Eno]

Yeah i believe its coming from the wheel well. Ill see my mechanic asap but only thing is he's more of a ford guy and don't know much about Hondas 😕
What should we be on the look out for when looking there?

[Eno]

I think i should just replace those anyways. I got this car for $650 about 4 months ago, on monday night/tuesday morning somebody stole it for just a joyride, a coworker of mine finds my car the very next morning after us exchanging phone numbers. Im greatful to get it back I the exact condition they took it in. No damage from them talking it. Which of those kits off ebay would u say would be best to get?

[Granite CB7]

Well checking bj's regardless of the make is all pretty much the same. I'd def. look for ripped boots but most importantly checking for play in the joints using a pry bar or just by feel alone. With ripped and torn boots that can let the grease get washed away, the joint can eventually wear down to metal on metal and it'll make a very obvious creaking noise that should not be ignored.

[92LxCoupe92]

Well checking bj's regardless of the make is all pretty much the same. I'd def. look for ripped boots but most importantly checking for play in the joints using a pry bar or just by feel alone. With ripped and torn boots that can let the grease get washed away, the joint can eventually wear down to metal on metal and it'll make a very obvious creaking noise that should not be ignored.

This ^. I literally just finished replacing my ball joints due to nasty creaking when turning back n forth, slightly rolling back, little bumps etc.. Now my balljoints didn't actually have any play in them, but the inside of the boots were torn and the grease had all dried up in em. With the new joints my car is quiet as can be turning the wheels and it drastically improved the ease to steer.. (Power steering delete.)

[deevergote]

If any balljoint boots are torn, the joint must be replaced.

Squealing could also be due to worn brake pads.

[Eno]

Does it sound like a slipping belt perhaps or does it sound like metal on metal creaking coming from the wheel well? If it comes from the wheel well I would immediately check all the balljoints- upper, lower and outer tie rod ends. I emphasize checking the lower bj's especially since there's alot of stress on those + you do not want that popping out of it's socket while driving!!!

Ill most likely just end up replacing it all, its a lot to fix up on this car but it runs pretty well. So i found a kit on ebay for $138. It includes:

Honda Accord 1990-1993 Only


BRAND NEW
This Auction is for a Full Kit Repair Suspension Parts for Honda Accord 1990-1993. Included the following parts:

2 Upper Control Arms with Ball Joints and all the bushings
2 Lower Ball Joints
2 Outer Tie Rod Ends
2 Inner Tie Rod Ends
2 Sway Bar Link Kits (Stabilizer Link)
All the cotter pins and retainer clips needed


Is that all the bj's you were referring to?

[Granite CB7]

Honestly, I would just make a list of what's worn. Most importantly, I would avoid buying generic ball joints on eBay, they will literally last 6 months. You can do some thorough research but Honda ball joints are the best you can buy and almost everything else is cheap overseas junk that does not last. Then you're back to square one, that's my take on the whole thing. Believe me, I've tried to cheap out and save $ going aftermarket, somethings it's okay, other times Honda is best + very well priced.

[deevergote]

DO NOT use cheap junk ebay balljoints! Those things are notorious for failing catastrophically. When a balljoint breaks, you crash.

Use OEM ball joints. Lower joints are about $25 each. Upper ball joints require the purchase of upper control arms, so they can get a bit pricey... which is unfortunate, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than crashing.

When it comes to parts that can cause you to lose control of your vehicle, you seriously do not want to cheap out. Cheap out on anything else. Just not on the important stuff. Saving a few bucks isn't worth your safety.

Inspect things to see what you need. Don't just trust what the internet tells you to do based on a vague description. Granite_CB7 knows his stuff... but even he's just guessing based on your description, because he's not there to actually experience what you're describing himself.

[Eno]

DO NOT use cheap junk ebay balljoints! Those things are notorious for failing catastrophically. When a balljoint breaks, you crash.

Use OEM ball joints. Lower joints are about $25 each. Upper ball joints require the purchase of upper control arms, so they can get a bit pricey... which is unfortunate, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than crashing.

When it comes to parts that can cause you to lose control of your vehicle, you seriously do not want to cheap out. Cheap out on anything else. Just not on the important stuff. Saving a few bucks isn't worth your safety.

Inspect things to see what you need. Don't just trust what the internet tells you to do based on a vague description. Granite_CB7 knows his stuff... but even he's just guessing based on your description, because he's not there to actually experience what you're describing himself.

I agree completely, but is that list the full repair like they say? I just would like to be sure i say the correct thing im looking for When i call around once i see what's needed.
Thanks again.

[deevergote]

That's most of the major components, yes. Inspect your car first, before going out and buying random parts, though. It's entirely possible that none of that is actually the source of the sound you're hearing. Won't hurt to replace all that stuff with proper OEM parts... but it's going to be fairly expensive and time consuming (don't forget you'll need to get an alignment as well if you do all of it.) Preventative maintenance is never a bad thing, but if the goal is to fix a problem... step 1 is always to positively identify the source of the problem.

I had a squeal when I turned, years ago. It was due to a loose brake caliper, worn brake pads, and a front wheel bearing that had a bit of play in it. No squeal when I moved straight, but it would occasionally do it when I turned.
My point is that your squeal could have a completely different source. Granite's first reply was only an educated guess. It wasn't a definitive answer. Don't go replacing the parts he named unless you KNOW they need to be replaced.

[Eno]

Yeah im going to definitely check things out before just buying. I do believe i need new brake pads anyways ago thats getting replaced regardless. Ima have my mechanic jack it up and help me look around.
That's funny that u described that because that's kinda how it is with mine. It doesn't do any noise while diving straight, and then sometimes does it when going into a turn. Not every turn tho. But my next day off, we will be looking.

[thumping_accord]

A good way of checking to see what all needs replaced is to first get a buddy over to help, put the car up one stands, lock the steering wheel, have your friend grab your rim/tires and try to move them back and forth in all directions while your are looking underneath for any play.

Besides ball joints another possibility for damaged parts could be your wheel bearings.

DO NOT use cheap junk ebay balljoints! Those things are notorious for failing catastrophically. When a balljoint breaks, you crash.

Use OEM ball joints. Lower joints are about $25 each. Upper ball joints require the purchase of upper control arms, so they can get a bit pricey... which is unfortunate, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than crashing.

When it comes to parts that can cause you to lose control of your vehicle, you seriously do not want to cheap out. Cheap out on anything else. Just not on the important stuff. Saving a few bucks isn't worth your safety.

Take heed to those words, when you use cheapo ebay parts that can fail at any time without any warning, you are not only putting yourself in jepordy but everyone else on the road with you at that moment. Saving a couple extra bucks isn't worth someone's life.

[Eno]

So I finally was able to Jack up my car and I believe it's the power steering rack. If that's what its called. I seen the rubber ripped up and the bar connected to the wheel was loose. I don't know if that helps. Part number I seen was SM4-A0. Did some googling and power steering rack came up.