So to gain a mere extra .25 hp I cleaned, very lightly ported and polished the throttle body off my f22a6 and after re assembling it I put it on with a custom cut cork gasket and Honda bond on my 91 f22a4 (both are automatic) Tightened it down by hand and then about 3/4-1 turn past that as to not crush cork and press into the throttle body channels. (I'm pretty sure its not gasket even when I tired this once before it did similar things with AutoZone gasket).
But now after setting idle air screw it shifts and redlines at 4300 rpms. Even in 4th. So double checking no vac leaks and messing with idle air screw, my results are in.
And before anyone asks. Yes I drilled out tps sensor bolts and replaced them. I didn't drill out to the adjusting part, its still in the stock adjusted location.
First change I noticed was the shift lock mechanism doesn't work, I have to use my spare key to pull it out of park no matter if I'm on the brake or not.
Second it doesn't shift till 3900-4300 rpms. After it shifts I can slow down about 7-9 mph before down shifting and revving up again. Also WOT seems to do nothing except open the butterfly. It refuses to downshift to accelerate regardless of speed or rpms. Unless I slow down enough to force a downshift.
Third if while driving and it stays high rpms before shift I can throw it into neutral and the rpms DO NOT drop. They remain the same. Even if I come to complete stop. NOW the weird part. If I tap my throttle it usually drops the idle back down to 800-900 rpms. But if I'm rolling faster than 20 mph no matter how many time I tap my throttle it WILL NOT drop to idle, it returns to the rpm I was at before tapping.
Fourth. CEL throws a code 43. It use to be a soft 43 before I swapped throttle body, but now its a hard 43 if I've been driving for longer than 45 mins to an hour at highway speeds. I know this forces limp in mode in most cases, and it drives worse in limp in. Very sluggish.
Fifth. When I come to a stop and let off brake it takes half a second to engage the trans assembly like as if your engaging the clutch but its an auto.
There are no vac leaks, I double checked with some carb cleaner. After inspections.
But now after setting idle air screw it shifts and redlines at 4300 rpms. Even in 4th. So double checking no vac leaks and messing with idle air screw, my results are in.
And before anyone asks. Yes I drilled out tps sensor bolts and replaced them. I didn't drill out to the adjusting part, its still in the stock adjusted location.
First change I noticed was the shift lock mechanism doesn't work, I have to use my spare key to pull it out of park no matter if I'm on the brake or not.
Second it doesn't shift till 3900-4300 rpms. After it shifts I can slow down about 7-9 mph before down shifting and revving up again. Also WOT seems to do nothing except open the butterfly. It refuses to downshift to accelerate regardless of speed or rpms. Unless I slow down enough to force a downshift.
Third if while driving and it stays high rpms before shift I can throw it into neutral and the rpms DO NOT drop. They remain the same. Even if I come to complete stop. NOW the weird part. If I tap my throttle it usually drops the idle back down to 800-900 rpms. But if I'm rolling faster than 20 mph no matter how many time I tap my throttle it WILL NOT drop to idle, it returns to the rpm I was at before tapping.
Fourth. CEL throws a code 43. It use to be a soft 43 before I swapped throttle body, but now its a hard 43 if I've been driving for longer than 45 mins to an hour at highway speeds. I know this forces limp in mode in most cases, and it drives worse in limp in. Very sluggish.
Fifth. When I come to a stop and let off brake it takes half a second to engage the trans assembly like as if your engaging the clutch but its an auto.
There are no vac leaks, I double checked with some carb cleaner. After inspections.
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