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It sure does need a loving touch. I don't know man, not trying to be negative, just realistic... I think it's worthy of being a commuter car, but I wouldn't encourage you to spend your time or money on upgrades. Dime for dime, you'd be able to buy a clean Honda to start with. There are plenty of clean old Hondas out there with engine issues that are sold for cheap, and for a small amount of money you could have it back on the road. I really hope that doesn't sound negative, if anything I am trying to encourage you to make a decision that won't leave a bad taste in your mouth.
If Modifying this car is what you have your heart set on, I will always recommend an N/A build. Turbos are fun but ultimately just more maintenance, and if this is your daily then you're going to want something more reliable. Build a strong H22. I know it's "played out" at this point, but I love the H22, and it looks right at home in the CB chassis. They are a good reliable strong engine with plenty of potential at half the price of a K swap, if not cheaper. If you don't have access to a Vtec H22, you can always find an H series variant in a local yard from a Prelude.
Again, good luck to you in whatever path you choose.CC2 Vigor.
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Modding old Hondas is a no go in Michigan man. You will spend too much $$$$ chasing rust. I would get something newer.
Originally posted by lordojaComment
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Or even if you can find a shell that is clean. Rubber undercoat and frequent fluidfilm treatments will keep rust away if you have something that's free of rust to begin with. Maybe check around craigslist down south and see if you can find a good deal on something worth making a trip for.
I've always wanted to do that. I live in Vermont so I know what it's like dreaming of cars that have never encountered salt. I'd take peeling clearcoat over rust ANY day!
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Hondas are pretty well undercoated from the factory. The place they failed is sealing the seams properly, almost no sealant at all in the pinchwelds! I liberally applied fluidfilm to the rear 1/4 seams and wells, and underneath my gf's coupe.Comment
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I've heard good things about fluid film. I will probably give it a try once my bodywork is done. See if I can preserve my car for a few more years.
I think that's about the most you can hope for when fixing rust... "trying to preserve it". I read a post on this forum where a member brought a 300k mile sedan back to life after fixing extensive rust. Very inspiring. However he mentions that after only two short years the rust had returned. This was after he sealed the crap out of everything he touched. Rust is purely evil. The car was insanely clean when he was done, I will try to link the post.CC2 Vigor.Comment
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Check this out, maybe this will be the inspiration that the PO needs to rescue his, but keep in mind the rust will always find its way back.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=180806CC2 Vigor.Comment
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I believe when he was talking about the rust returning he was referring to one of his other cb's, he has a small fleet of them.
Tackling rust repair can be rewarding, if you get a sense of accomplishment from in depth projects.
Paying someone more than the value of your car to repair the rust can be rather depressing.CB7TUNER.com
Educating each other one car at a time.Comment
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Ah, maybe I read it wrong. Either way, the level of commitment in that sedan was insane. And by insane, I mean incredible.Originally posted by cb9love View Post
I agree, rust repair is rewarding. I often find my rust repairs are only rewarding for a limited amount of time, but I'm getting better at it. I fixed my quarter panels on my Vigor. I kind of rushed the passenger side, but I took my time on the driver side. Can you guess which side is showing rust again?..
I didn't have extensive rust in visible areas, it was mostly just surface rust and bubbling around the very backside of the quarter panels where the bumper meets the metal. Underneath the bumper was another story... It was pretty chewed up. I didn't feel I needed to weld in new panels just yet, so I ground every speckle of rust off and treated the metal. Then I just used tigerhair to sculpt it back into shape and used a can of spraypaint I had mixed at a parts store that can mix according to your paint code. It is serving it's purpose until I can get more time and warmer weather to dig back into it before hopefully getting a paintjob.
Personally, I wouldn't find it worth while to fix rust that has claimed an entire wheel well. I'm more than thrilled to watch someone else do it though. It all comes down to one thing.... The worse the rust is, the better you have to be at rust repair. You're going to be spending a good chunk of change and time on doing it, and you don't want it to come back in a year or even two years! You'd want it to get you through until the day the car meets it's end, and I just don't think I am good enough at that kind of repair to ensure myself that kind of longevity.
To each, their own.CC2 Vigor.Comment
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Just throwing this out there for OP. I have 93 10th anniversary body\chassis no engine, transmission, or interior(edit)(it has seats, dash, steering wheel and guages and majority trim.)(end edit) missing a few minor (turn signals, etc) body pieces, absolutely NO RUST, and no wrecks. 250k on body. (I'm in Texas). If your interested. Ecu also bad. It stopped sending signal to alternator for charging. tcu has had the known bad caps\resistors replaced.
I steer clear of rust on vehicles. Unless its very minor surface rust. Once the cancer starts it never ends. It's just slowed down. Miracles can be done... With enough time and or money. Just how much do you want to spend to achieve and maintain it?
If I was you, I'd only do bolt on upgrades till you find a better body to work with. Or interior work that can be swapped/carried over to another CB7. Assuming you love it enough to buy another.Last edited by F22hybrid91; 01-26-2016, 09:55 AM.Comment
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Sounds like a road trip! I'd drive for a clean shell! Do itttttCC2 Vigor.Comment
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