Instrument cluster - replacement

[gabill]

1991 accord ex coupe automatic. I need to replace the instrument cluster. In an Earlier post I was advised that there are two "types". How do I determine compatibility? have looked on ebay but unsure which is actually compatible. Any ideas on a source to purchase a replacement? thanks

[Fleetw00d]

What is wrong with your cluster? The components of the gage cluster are replaceable, you don't necessarily need to replace the whole thing.

[emosun]

Well most people replace the whole cluster when they obtain a vehicle with a lower millage stated on the title and don't update it. That way they can claim and resell the vehicle without disclosing the real millage. Most likely they are trying to find a low millage cluster , because finding a cluster for functioning purposes rather then malicious purposes is very easy at any junkyard.

[Fleetw00d]

Well most people replace the whole cluster when they obtain a vehicle with a lower millage stated on the title and don't update it. That way they can claim and resell the vehicle without disclosing the real millage. Most likely they are trying to find a low millage cluster , because finding a cluster for functioning purposes rather then malicious purposes is very easy at any junkyard.

I hope it is not most people. I sold my mother-in-law's truck, 95 Ford F150 with 220,000 miles to some guy claiming to be buying it for his nephew and that his wife was a notary and could take care of the paperwork. I got an email about a month later saying he "gave" it to the guy (never got his own title, actually sold it to him for $450 more than I sold it), but he was having trouble getting the title transferred. The 2nd guy told me that the first guy was not his uncle, had told him he got it from HIS mother-in-law, that the engine and trans only had 60,000 miles, didn't tell him about the non-functioning front tank fuel pump or the CEL codes, why there was a non-matching tire and wheel - all of which I explained to the guy I sold it to. The guy who ended up with the truck then expected me to lie about the purchase price. This guy soured me on trying to "help" with the purchase of a vehicle, from now on, by the book. It is not required for a used car in Ohio, but a bill of sale describing the vehicle with seller and buyer's signature is not a bad idea.

To the best of my knowledge, all my odometers are correct. I even advanced the one on my wagon with the estimated miles it was driven while the odometer wasn't working for a short period of time.

[gabill]

I pulled the cluster to replace a CEL light bulb (removed by someone prior to my purchasing the vehicle), the gas gauge and speedometer did not function afterword . Rather than try to troubleshoot / disect and attempt to replace pieces, I planned on just replacing the cluster. Have been to junk yards, but have found no intact cluster, yet. In an earlier post, it was said that there are two types of clusters for the 1991 ex coupe auto. Just trying to be sure I get one compatible.

[ChrisMario88]

I don't know if this relates to USDM Accords, but I have a '97 Accord cluster
in my '91 Accord. It pretty much fit in without major modifications.

Although mine has led-lit background and speedometer arrows from Subaru
which is lit up orange, I think that was the most work.

So if it's the same over there, you can get one from a 96-00 Accord which
will fit and work without major modifications required

[JFISHTHECREATOR]

my clusters stopped working , so i bought a used one , Same year, model , and sub model as mine. and i swapped out the mileage from mine into it. not difficult. just some patience.

[Losiracer2]

out of the blue, when my cluster rolled over to 180,000, 50 miles later the 1 changed to a 2, and it now reads 280,000....this infuriated me. Now I've got to swap the numbers at the bottom with a spare one I have from my Coupe back when I swapped to a Prelude Cluster.

Can you easily change the 2 to a 1 to make it read 180,000 again? My DD is too nice to let that be, not to mention I would most likely take a $1,000 hit if I were to sell it.

[JFISHTHECREATOR]

out of the blue, when my cluster rolled over to 180,000, 50 miles later the 1 changed to a 2, and it now reads 280,000....this infuriated me. Now I've got to swap the numbers at the bottom with a spare one I have from my Coupe back when I swapped to a Prelude Cluster.

Can you easily change the 2 to a 1 to make it read 180,000 again? My DD is too nice to let that be, not to mention I would most likely take a $1,000 hit if I were to sell it.

they numbers are turned by a motor, so with no power to the motor, you cannot change the mileage(with my experience atleast). however; i did get them to turn by putting a nail in my drill chuck that fit the slot in the motor , and got them to change as if the motor was running.

[PakaloloHonda]

they numbers are turned by a motor, so with no power to the motor, you cannot change the mileage(with my experience atleast). however; i did get them to turn by putting a nail in my drill chuck that fit the slot in the motor , and got them to change as if the motor was running.

Now theres some great info!

Soooo, just put the drill in reverse?

[H311RA151N]

out of the blue, when my cluster rolled over to 180,000, 50 miles later the 1 changed to a 2, and it now reads 280,000....this infuriated me. Now I've got to swap the numbers at the bottom with a spare one I have from my Coupe back when I swapped to a Prelude Cluster.

Can you easily change the 2 to a 1 to make it read 180,000 again? My DD is too nice to let that be, not to mention I would most likely take a $1,000 hit if I were to sell it.

You mean roll the odometer back. Like this?



I could show how it's done, now that I put this on the internet I'm going to smash it into pieces. Which I have been meaning to do anyways. I did it just to see if I could. There are two ways to do it. One is with a little electric motor, a gear and hours of it running. I'd say 3 hours would equal about 100,000 miles. The other way is to remove the pin that each roller hooks too, set the rollers the way you want them then install the pin back in.

The electric motor method is far better. You don't risk damaging anything this way. But to do that you need to remove the motor it has in the cluster unlike what's been said previously in this thread. If you try and use the motor that's built into the cluster you will be at it for days as the gear ratios for the motor and the gears it runs are way to low to get anything done in a reasonable amount of time. You need another motor with a gear from another cluster, one of the green ones and slide it onto the shaft of your spare electric motor. I made a small bracket made out of pop-sickle sticks screwed to the cluster using existing screws and holes to mount the motor. You can do it this way or any number of ways. Just as long as the gear on the motor makes contact with the gear on the cluster firmly. Make sure and use a little oil on the gear to keep it from getting hot and to keep it lubricated. If you get the gears hot then you can melt the gears. Which spinning them as fast as you need to to really get the miles going backwards you need a little speed. Also you need to keep hitting the trip reset while it's going or it will ruin the trip reset. So you just sit there with the motor running the gears and hit the trip reset every once in a while, before it gets to 999. I'd also let it sit every 30 mins because the guts and stuff might get warm from moving so fast. I think my little motor was spinning 2500rpm or thereabout.

A person could be a bad ass and use an electronic controller from a train set to have variable speed on the motor. Just a thought.

I can take this cluster apart before I smash it and show the pins that I'm talking about. Only thing is I don't want some ass hole to see this and start fucking people over and selling CB's with "50,000" miles... So this might not be here for long. Idk yet.

[H311RA151N]

I intend for this info to be used for good not evil. Missouri state law says that it's not illegal to mess with an odometer however it is illegal to state that it's correct or not to state that it's incorrect when transferring the title or selling the vehicle.

To remove the motor you need to dremel out a tamper proof rivet. You can put a proper screw in it later from another cluster motor.



Here is the pin you need to remove. Notice it's splined on the left side so it is a bit tough to remove.




There is the hole below the pin that you slide the pin out of. You actually just slide the pin until the splines meet this hole which still allows you to adjust the rollers. The numbers are linked together and you will need to spin all of them and set them back where they lock before you put the pin back in. If you bend the pin the numbers will set crooked. FYI this is a bitch.

[JFISHTHECREATOR]

Now theres some great info!

Soooo, just put the drill in reverse?

in theory , yes haha

[H311RA151N]

Why a drill? If you want to do it that way just put juice to the motor. You can change the polarity to go which ever way you need to.

I don't know what slot you are referring to as I don't see any slot in on around the motor.

[JFISHTHECREATOR]

Why a drill? If you want to do it that way just put juice to the motor. You can change the polarity to go which ever way you need to.

I don't know what slot you are referring to as I don't see any slot in on around the motor.

CLICK ON THE SMALL ONE
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