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iab activation problem.

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    #1

    iab activation problem.

    93 accord ex.. so f22a6 so the IAB plate wasn't added or swap. Its all factory a6. I put the h23 plenum and a gutter 2nd IAB plate. After coming across the IABs on pt3 post, I got curious about checking mine out. I was revving my car from under the hood pretty high and the lever didn't move or anything. My first thought is that its staying closed, but I re watched the video on the pt3 IAB post and now I think that mine are stuck open? I tried a couple of Google searches about what would cause it to stick but I couldn't come up with anything.. I can move the lever with my hand with no problems so its not jammed...

    Any help would be great, maybe any opinions on gutting that IAB plate also? I've heard that it hurts lower/helps top end power/tq...

    Thanks in advance
    Tags: None
    #2
    The other thread, his IAB's are hooked up incorrect, and activating at a much lower RPM then they should. You would have to rev your engine to over 5k rpms to witness them open, then let the rpms drop to below 4300 rpms to watch them re-close, and even then the ECU might only signal activation while the car is actually under load and in gear.

    In regards to whether to run IAB's or to gut them; trust me, the car is much happier with functional IAB's then without, especially if your daily driving. Don't believe me? Pull the vacuum hose off the diaphragm, and plug the hose. The second you disconnect the vacuum from the diaphragm the lever should move (if the car is on), and your IAB's will be open (from the spring pressure).
    Last edited by cloudasc; 06-11-2014, 12:43 PM.
    PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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      #3
      Originally posted by cloudasc View Post
      The other thread, his IAB's are hooked up incorrect, and activating at a much lower RPM then they should. You would have to rev your engine to over 5k rpms to witness them open, then let the rpms drop to below 4300 rpms to watch them re-close, and even then the ECU might only signal activation while the car is actually under load and in gear.

      In regards to whether to run IAB's or to gut them; trust me, the car is much happier with functional IAB's then without, especially if your daily driving. Don't believe me? Pull the vacuum hose off the diaphragm, and plug the hose. The second you disconnect the vacuum from the diaphragm the lever should move (if the car is on), and your IAB's will be open (from the spring pressure).
      Well when I stand on the drivers side of the car and look at the pulley/lever... its turned all the way to the left when its off and it won't move when I rev it up high.. I was just using his video to be able to tell if mine is staying shut or staying open... his would turnto the right at idle and low rpms..

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        #4
        The IABs will activate while just idling, with no load.

        OP with no vacuum the IAB butterflies are open, when vacuum is applied, they close. If they aren't closing you either have a vacuum leak, a faulty part, a PT3 ECU, or the system is hooked up wrong.
        Originally posted by Mishakol129
        Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by dj_ender View Post
          The IABs will activate while just idling, with no load.

          OP with no vacuum the IAB butterflies are open, when vacuum is applied, they close. If they aren't closing you either have a vacuum leak, a faulty part, a PT3 ECU, or the system is hooked up wrong.
          Well besides the h23 plenum and double IAB that is gutted out, it's set up like factory. How common is that part being faulty?
          Factory ecu also. Pt6 I think?? I didn't look at it when I pulled the TCU (5sp swap) but I've never changed it, I got the car from someone that drove it only.. no modifications or anything.

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by linkcb7 View Post
            Well besides the h23 plenum and double IAB that is gutted out, it's set up like factory. How common is that part being faulty?
            Factory ecu also. Pt6 I think?? I didn't look at it when I pulled the TCU (5sp swap) but I've never changed it, I got the car from someone that drove it only.. no modifications or anything.
            So I'm pretty sure that my iabs are stuck OPEN.. I can't find any signs of a vac leak and the car runs just fine without the iabs being functional. I might just delete my iabs since they don't work, they are pretty much just in the way of air flow at higher rpms (not that its super duper restrictive but oh well)

            Thanks for the input fellow cb7ers

            Comment

              #7
              Don't gut the IAB's, doing so would make the car even more of a dog at lower rpm. It would be easiest to pull up the passenger carpet and look what model ecu you have. Do you have the 'black box' that bolts under the intake manifold that is hooked up? We will be more than happy to help you get it set up correctly. No point in 'half-assing' something, and you'll thank us when its working properly again (as you will notice a HUGE difference at lower rpms).
              PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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                #8
                I have the exact same issue on my 92 EX Coupe and have been trying to figure out why mine won't close. I have good vacuum in the vacuum box, no hose leaks, a new solenoid and proper voltage to the plug. My IABs will close when I apply a manual vacuum so I know they work. I rev to over 5K RPMS and they won't close. I will check my ECU, so what ECU do I need so the IABs activate, a PT6?

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by GreenBee View Post
                  I have the exact same issue on my 92 EX Coupe and have been trying to figure out why mine won't close. I have good vacuum in the vacuum box, no hose leaks, a new solenoid and proper voltage to the plug. My IABs will close when I apply a manual vacuum so I know they work. I rev to over 5K RPMS and they won't close. I will check my ECU, so what ECU do I need so the IABs activate, a PT6?
                  Yes. Obviously you have a leak from the box to diaphragm, or your black box needs replaced.
                  Originally posted by Mishakol129
                  Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by cloudasc View Post
                    Don't gut the IAB's, doing so would make the car even more of a dog at lower rpm. It would be easiest to pull up the passenger carpet and look what model ecu you have. Do you have the 'black box' that bolts under the intake manifold that is hooked up? We will be more than happy to help you get it set up correctly. No point in 'half-assing' something, and you'll thank us when its working properly again (as you will notice a HUGE difference at lower rpms).
                    My car really isn't that bad in low rpms to be honest. And the iabs probably have never worked since I've had the car.. I smoked another cb7 on the way to work this morning no problems.. he was probably a1 or a4 though. And didn't have the h23 transmission and other h23 goodies...

                    Since my iabs are already stuck open, I don't think it would change much if I took them out.. I*guess if I do it, I'll let you guys know.

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                      #11
                      Have you checked the voltage at the IAB solenoid plug?

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