Lowering my car

[deevergote]

dude yonakas look tyyyttee 32 way of adjusterbility so low or so high now you must buy cuz they be dope jack.

ya bro and for 400 billz yo dey gotz 2 be gud!!!

[illinois_erik]

ya bro and for 400 billz yo dey gotz 2 be gud!!!

fo sho maineg

[DanCan]

32 Levels of dampening....LMAO. So overrated.. 16 is just fine, and probably the same as 32.

I have Koni Yellows, Best $555 I ever spent. Mine are paired with Tein S-Techs

[Chrisnick]

Bilstein or Koni for shocks. For springs, it really depends on what you're going to do with the car. For daily driving, I LOVE my Bilstein shocks paired with the Skunk2 sport springs. Progressively wound, they're very nice and soft when I'm just driving around; the shock valving is definitely firmer than necessary for the softer rates, but once in a corner, the springs firm up VERY quickly and work pretty well. It's not as focused as it could be(I autocross my car, so it could be stiffer), but it works well for day to day use. If I was really shooting for doing the best I could in autocross, I'd either go with a set of revalved Bilsteins(they're pretty much a race shock, do some research), or the Koni yellows(if I didn't have any interest to revalve) paired with either Ground Controls in a custom rate, or a set of coilovers made from stuff like Summit Racing/QA1. It would not be a very streetable setup, IMO. My Bilstein/Skunk2 combo is just about all I would tolerate on the street, then again roads around here SUCK.

[deevergote]

Skunk2 springs are crap. They don't know a damn thing about Accords.
Bilstein doesn't make anything for us that is valved for stiffer lowering springs. They make very high quality products, but no real performance products for our chassis. To properly use them with any performance springs, they must be revalved.

[Corweena]

Since you're lowering your car, make sure to get some camber kits or else you will go thru tires fast. That plus an alignment will help keep tire wear to a minimum

This isn't necessarily true.

I've had my wheels/tires for 9 months now, with no camber kits, and I have no uneven tire wear, even with -2.5 degrees of camber all around. I had the car aligned right after install, so the toe was set to zero. Camber doesn't kill tires fast.....toe does (especially camber + toe). If you have a drop less than 2in, a camber kit isn't needed......or even at a 3in drop like me. It would help, but you will be fine without it.

[deevergote]

Camber wear still occurs. The choice of tire size and compound, combined with driving style and the health of other suspension components, will have an effect as well.
Best to tell someone the RIGHT way to do things, and let them decide for themselves whether or not they want to do it.
Negative camber causes uneven wear. Period.

[illinois_erik]

Bam!


H&R part # 31851-1

Hunt around you can find them cheaper than MSRP.

[buzz11]

I have this exact set. Best bang for your buck in my opinion. But then again.. I got them for alot lower than buying them separate.

[Corweena]

Camber wear still occurs. The choice of tire size and compound, combined with driving style and the health of other suspension components, will have an effect as well.
Best to tell someone the RIGHT way to do things, and let them decide for themselves whether or not they want to do it.
Negative camber causes uneven wear. Period.

True. I guess I'm trying to say its something that isn't needed right away. Its a good idea to have a camber kits, but as long as you do it correctly, you can survive without one.

Plus, if you plan on tracking the car like I do, some camber is a good thing lol.

Bam!

H&R part # 31851-1

Hunt around you can find them cheaper than MSRP.

How cheap can you find them for? I did a quick Google search, and came up with around $900 for the combo.....which seems to be quite a lot. I know H&R is good, but is it really worth $900....for a set of lowering springs and non-adjustable shocks?

[buzz11]

How cheap can you find them for? I did a quick Google search, and came up with around $900 for the combo.....which seems to be quite a lot. I know H&R is good, but is it really worth $900....for a set of lowering springs and non-adjustable shocks?

Not sure which one you looked up. But I got the H&R cup kit. They were floating around ebay 2 years ago for ALOT less than $900. Its essentially Koni yellows with H&R sport springs. If you were to buy them seperate, they are just about that price. Of course the Shocks aren't yellow themselves but they are the same part #.

[Corweena]

Ah, the part number you gave pulled up the Sport Cup Kit.....which I guess is a more aggressive drop.

[illinois_erik]

Ah, the part number you gave pulled up the Sport Cup Kit.....which I guess is a more aggressive drop.

eh nothing special

[Raf99]

Isn't there a full write-up on this topic and the camber topic?
We should tell folks to go read that whole thing, then come back with questions. Not sure if I'm the only one sick of seeing this question asked and no-one pointing them to the proper documentation.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=139318

[Chrisnick]

Skunk2 springs are crap. They don't know a damn thing about Accords.
Bilstein doesn't make anything for us that is valved for stiffer lowering springs. They make very high quality products, but no real performance products for our chassis. To properly use them with any performance springs, they must be revalved.

There's not much TO Accords to make them entirely different than anything else Skunk2 makes products for, don't jump to conclusions like they wouldn't be able to figure it out. As for crap, ALL springs are made in one of about 3 factories that have the capability to produce them. All you really need to know is the weight of the vehicle and weight distribution, some simple geometry and a couple of measurements and that's about it. It's not rocket science and just about anyone can do it with a calculator. The main difference between the rear suspension is where the shock mounting point is and how a coil spring over a shock would behave in relation to the body and the shock mount. Long story short, they work JUST FINE and are more than likely the same quality as every other bigger name brand spring out there.

The Bilstien HD's are valved a little bit stiffer than factory(much stiffer, actually), and can easily handle the rates of 99% of the lowering spring kits out there. They also have shorter shafts and reversable spring perches to properly get the correct preload on the spring and overall height. I know because I installed mine myself, they're VERY nice pieces. With a revalve(as I stated before) they're basically a race shock depending on what's spec'd on the revalve. It's mind blowing the Honda community really hasn't embraced them as much as almost every other community, but then again, Honda's are the king of cookie cutter bolt on garbage.

If you can find some justification for the statements other than just random internet rambling from people who don't know what they're talking about or have heard from a guy who has a friend who's dog's sister's aunt's brother had them, I'd be happy to hear about it. Just because I have minimal posts on this board doesn't mean I'm an idiot and have no idea what I'm doing or talking about.



As far as camber wear, I have zero, but my suspension is in pretty decent shape with newer ball joints. No alignment since I've lowered it, easily 5,000 miles on this stuff now, on really soft compound snow tires.