Ingalls or SPC??? i also want to drop the car low and keep it within oem spec. so should i use the sliding ball joint and anchor one or just one of the two. also should i use poly or rubber bushings? and any suggestions on what all i should replace for control arms and tie rods and the rack cause the car has play in the steering. ill take and suggestions. also what would you recomend for lowering kits i had teins before i love but cost alot. any ideas
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camber kit and lowering kit thoughts and suggestions???
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I've had experience only with the Ingalls Anchor Bolt kits for the front. they are cheaper than the balljoints, and in my opinion probably more durable/long lasting, since the other option is a balljoint (boots tend to wear down and balljoints then go bad... high wear part).
I'm dropped to a finger gap, so to get OE specs you're gonna need the +1.00-+3.00 Degree Correction Anchor Bolt Camber Kit from Ingalls. Not only this, but you will need to make modifications to your chassis to allow for this much correction. This includes folding this flap of metal where the chassis is welded (you'll notice a ridge on your fender lining right in the middle of where your tire would be... this is the metal you'll need to fold. it becomes a guillotine to your wheels if you're lowered enough) and banging out your shock towers to allow your control arm to travel without damage.
use one of the two, you won't need two for correction. Rubber bushings ride smoother. Poly is firmer, but more responsive. I would use poly on things you can get to easily, but don't go out of your way to install a full kit of poly bushings right off the bat (like in the control arms and stuff). do it when the time comes, because those take a while to do. rubber aint bad, and it helps with ride comfort and relieving stress on your suspension components since its intended to allow some movement in the connecting points.
Recommended to replace control arms and tie rod ends (2 of the 3 balljoints, the 3rd being the lower balljoint). If you're gonna do the front anchor bolt camber kit, then replace the control arm as well. tie rod ends are simpler, but require an alignment soon after. replace the tie rod ends and the play in the steering should be reduced by a lot.
for low cost, decent performing full-body coilovers, Function Form Type 1's have had a great following. Their warranty isn't so hot i heard (you have to pay for shipping there), so as long as you don't get a bad set you should be good to go. I've had shock and spring combos and they handle extremely well, but with bumps and dip and all sorts of bullshizz on the road you're gonna want something a little stiffer to keep you from bottoming out on the road. Thus, I would recommend full-body coilovers, especially since you can also adjust your height to your liking.
I've seen people with SPC rear camber kits. they have a bent arm one or extreme lowered applications. There are people who are currently running Wicked Rear Camber Kits. Apparently good, but if you plan to lower a lot, it would probably be safer to go with the SPC. I haven't personally tried my Wicked kit yet so... yeah.
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P5ylance thanks. i had wicked on my 98 accord i dropped her only 2in in the front 1.5 in the rear but i had tein basic damper kit. i love tein but they cost and dont come with the hat. atleast that kit doesnt. i also didnt have to put a camber kit on the front on my 98, but my friend has a 93 coupe of my car and he had to put a kit on the front but he said he got his from honda. bs. but i plan on redoing the whole suspension front and back when i lower the car just because i only want to pay once for the alignment. where did you get your wicked kit from???
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yee bud no problem, glad I could help
you're in for one helluva week if you're gonna be refreshing ALL that suspension!!
I got my camber kit... I think I ordered it off amazon. That's how I KNEW it was LEGIT
you can find them on eBay as well (ebay was the first place i saw them), but since I was able to find it on amazon I went that route since I had some amazon credit from a previous voucher.
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i work for amazon but yeah thats where i got mine for my 98. can i ask a favor can you take a picture of the wicked ones you have because the one i keep seeing on there is the one for my 98 and i dont think that will work but i could be wrong this suspension in the rear is really different from my 98. i like ebay for the honda parts i dont want to give up my first born for from the dealership but amazon is really good with if the send the wrong item or its defective. i bought and hid kit from there and one bulb is 8k and the other is 6k so im waiting on the seller right now im so off topic sorry. but yeah i know i am in for a hell of a time. im going to take a week of to do this and im buying all the parts for it. what do you think about blackwell shocks? also the Function Form Type 1 shocks where can i find them of atleast see the full spec on them?
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If you plan on going low, a straight armed rear camber kit like the wicked ones will limit suspension travel. The stock rear arm is curved to give extra clearance for the spindle.Manual Belt Conversion-Variable Intermittent Wipers-Steering Volume Controls-Rear Defroster Antenna-JDM Climate Control-MDX Steering Wheel-Lighted Mirror Switch-CL Trunk Solenoid-CL Homelink-Shaved Hood Squirters-Foglight Wiring Diagram-Door Panel Removal-Puddle Lights-Ambient Lighting-Door Speaker Install-Window Seal and Regulator Cleaning-Prelude Cluster-Mirror Tweeter Pods-Illuminated Window Switch -More Coming Soon
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well thats were im on the fence right now because i dont know what rim size im going with. basically im going to go with a clean look no negative camber i want it close to spec as possible with like a half inch wheel gap but i want to nose down a bit more than the rear. any suggestions on rim size??? and p5ylance yea your right there not cheap.
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Originally posted by honda2014 View PostBefore you lower your car, make sure your front suspension components are updated. WOrn out bushings and old ball joints make new coilovers a pain in the ***, just giving you a heads up.
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ah, then follow my set-up. 17x7 +35 offset all around will be perfect for you and get you what you want. If anything, some 5mm spacers in the rear to get it perfect AFTER you roll your fenders, but its good right now. here, lemme show you some fitment pics with details in each picture
^uncorrected fronts. definitely could use better fitment... thus... FRONT CAMBER KIT!
^This is my front fitment
17x7
+35 offset
Camber corrected to -1.0
No need for spacers
^upper view of my rears, uncorrected camber
17x7
+35 offset
Camber uncorrected, remains at -2.8
i'm pretty sure if i correct the camber in the rear i would be right at the fender (much like what happened to the fronts), so I think 17x7 +35 is the perfect size for rims for that flush fitment. you will raise the rears to get the wheel wells balanced so you need height adjustment.
keep your camber at -1.0 for BEST FITMENT. any more correction than that and you will incur damage.Last edited by P5ylance; 12-02-2013, 12:20 AM.
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