Ok so I have the stupid honda idle problem so I tried taking my IACV off to clean it. The hoses didn't wanna come off so I sprayed it down with carb cleaner and I think some got in the intake manifold... didn't fix the idle problem but actually caused quite a bit of another problem.. while driving, or at idle, my rpm gauge will just simply go nuts. NOT ALL THE TIME. The engine won't do anything the tachometer just goes nuuuuuts. Every now and then while driving at like 2100 rpms the motor will buck like it turned off and compression started itself.. and also every now and then my tachometer will drop to zero for a second and go back to where it should be and then it backfires. God someone plz tell me what I did lol would the MAF do this kind of stuff? I know I noticed a cooling fan fuse blown and I swapped it with a fuse from the power seats. Since ya know.. I don't have power seats lol. Could the power seat fuse possibly be doing something else? I just want this thing to run right!! I'm trying to sell it and as soon as it goes on craigslist everything goes wrong lmao. O yea only once this happened to me.. I stopped at a stop light and my battery idiot light went on so I was like oh man what now and then I noticed my car was off.. it started right up though and I drove it home... wtf??
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How are you grounds on the battery terminal and the chassis also engine? rusted/dirty? loose? Ill check that first before anything.. sounds like a weak ground. I maybe wrong. but its free to do what i said and its a start. -
Igniter. Behind the distributor cap. Replace it.
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I have soooo many grounds lol i made my own so its not a loose ground. Im thinking its an igniter cuz it kinda seems like a missfire. Should I just get a new cap n rotor?Originally posted by Ely585 View PostComment
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do this like they said make sure it's oemOriginally posted by bobbycos View PostCB7TUNER.com
Educating each other one car at a time.Comment
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I'll throw this out there...I got mine from Autozone and it hasn't failed me in 4-5 years...ymmvComment
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You can't go wrong with OEM, but I've never heard of a cheaper igniter causing any problems.
Personally, I just go to the junkyard and snag a few igniters. I've never purchased a new one!
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I only suggested the oem ignitor because I had personal bad experiance with 2 new ones from aurozone, then I got an old oem one and it worked perfect.Originally posted by deevergote View PostYou can't go wrong with OEM, but I've never heard of a cheaper igniter causing any problems.
Personally, I just go to the junkyard and snag a few igniters. I've never purchased a new one!CB7TUNER.com
Educating each other one car at a time.Comment
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It's an easy part to replace and return, so as long as there's a warranty in place, it's not that big of a deal.
OEM is ALWAYS going to be the safest option, though. You're right.
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Easy my ass dude everything is crammed into such a small space and the only two screws I have left to get off are stripped as hell. Like there is no hope.. so wtf should I just go get a whole new distributer? Omg I do not want this car any more why is everything so f**ked. Every important bolt snaps off every important screw strips everything else is already stripped ugh I'm probably gonna part this stupid car outOriginally posted by deevergote View PostComment
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Sorry for calling you dude lolComment
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I'll buy the car from you for 5 bucks...
We've all been there, it's part of the territory of owning an old car. The fun part is making it work. And by making it work I mean using vice grips and prybars. Those have to be the MOST valuable set of tools for working on a CB, imo. Plus you have to be gentle-er, everything doesn't have to be torqued to 160 ft-lbs.Comment
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second the vise grips on old stripped accord bolts like the ones on your ignitor.Originally posted by sonikaccord View PostCB7TUNER.com
Educating each other one car at a time.Comment
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