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Bad gas mileage, runs lean, hesitates

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    #16
    Well, the ecu didn't cure much. I still had the codes and other issues.

    I replaced the new NTK O2 sensor with a new Denso sensor. The code 43 went away. But I then got and still have a code 1.

    Before replacing the dist., I checked the timing. It was way advanced. I replaced the dist. and set the timing to specs. The car would barely move. I kept advancing the timing until it ran decently. Now it is almost at the end of the adjustment range. So far no code 15.

    So, I have a code 1 and the car will only drive well with the timing advanced.

    I'm at a loss. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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      #17
      Sounds like your timing belt is off by a tooth.






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        #18
        could be fuel related, i dont think that its the timing being off by a tooth

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          #19
          Since the car only runs "properly" with the timing fully advanced, that's the only thing that seems to make sense.
          Having your injectors tested and cleaned could be useful, but I can't imagine that's the issue. Not unless you see evidence of one or two cylinders running extremely rich or lean (all four would be pretty unlikely.)






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            #20
            I've thought about it being a tooth off, but I would think that the timing marks at the flywheel wouldn't line up if that was so?

            Could the code 1 or these symptoms have anything to do with a clogged cat? The car does have 214,000 miles on it.

            I want to do a timing belt on the car, but not until after/if I fix the bad mpg problem, etc.

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              #21
              Doing the timing belt may fix the problem! Especially if it did skip a tooth... the belt shouldn't do that, so that would be a sign of trouble.

              If the belt is off a tooth, you could still line up the flywheel marks to set the ignition timing. It's not that significant of a change.
              They only way to check if the belt is off is to remove the valve cover, and check the TDC mark on the cam gear in relation to the mark on the crank pulley.
              Is the car still sluggish in the lower RPM range? Does it only really seem to have proper power above 3000rpm?






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                #22
                Yes, in the lower rpm range it is sluggish. Around 2500 and up it is good.

                Knowing now that the timing marks can line up, even if a tooth off, makes it look more like that to me also. And there is definitely a timing problem that I have.

                I hate the idea of doing the belt myself. My friend has a well equiped garage and offered to do it with me. One shop I checked around here wanted $700 to do the job. I'm going to have to make a decision soon.

                Thanks for all your help.

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                  #23
                  Any word on this? my car has the same issue with a code 1, white plugs, and running really lean (innovate lc-2 reads 17-20AFR) I get about 24mpg all highway driving. It bogs taking off from a stop occasionally but my car is a manual. I have checked my iat sensor and clt sensor readings at the ecu plugs and they are accurate. Car runs really well with the CLT unplugged. Runs okay with it plugged in but more than 3/4 throttle or about 3800 rpms it dives from around 14.5-14-9 to 17+ AFR. tried 2 different used o2's and 2 brand new denso sensors. 2 pt6's. no love. calibrated and checked the tps for smooth readings. I'm ready to buy an s300 and tune the fuel in myself...

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                    #24
                    I would do what Deev suggested and check your timing. I've had the same problem myself. It isn't hard to change the timing belt there should be a DIY on the site. Just search for it.
                    MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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                      #25
                      This is well over a year old, and the OP hasn't even logged on since 2013.
                      Please don't resurrect old inactive threads.






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