Corroded battery connections can do that. I had a similar issue... turned, but wouldn't start. A push-start worked (manual transmission). I replaced the battery and starter, same result. Cleaned the cables... and it worked perfectly.
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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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Cb7's mysterious symptoms..
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Originally posted by SEgirl View PostOne of my Accords did something similar. It would start up fine and be running, and then just quit. Sometimes it would be while it was running, other times I would park, and then it would not start back up when I got back in. It would crank but not turn over. Lights, radio, etc would still work. It would go for days with no issues, and then out of the blue, it would quit again. Replaced the main relay and that took care of the problem.
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostCorroded battery connections can do that. I had a similar issue... turned, but wouldn't start. A push-start worked (manual transmission). I replaced the battery and starter, same result. Cleaned the cables... and it worked perfectly.
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ignition control module yo
what year is your car? because 90-91 are different then 92-93
for that hardware
Diagnosing and Fixing a Failed Ignitor on a 93 Honda Accord - DIY ...
homeandauto.ldsdates.com/.../diagnosing-and-fixing-a-failed-ignitor-on-93-honda-accord/ - Cached
Dec 10, 2010 ... While driving home from work one evening the engine on my 93 honda accord suddenly quit – it seemed as if it had run out of gas, but I knew ...
https://www.google.com/search?q=1993...-8&sa=N&tab=iw
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Originally posted by heretoaskstuff View PostSo I took it to the shop and they tested the battery and alternator and they said it works just fine, I told them the problems I was having and they looked at me like I was crazy until I took one of them for a ride. They don't have a clue what's causing it either.
Last edited by Accord problems; 09-05-2013, 08:23 PM.this was put together by evil_demon_01 . You can also fined all this and more by him in the Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST
Not this one though.1990 to 1993 accord fuel psi .
Car safety checks
Diagnose a Check Engine Light (also S/D4 transmission error codes)
How to Set Base Idle Properly (F22ax, F22bx)
Cheapest Suspension Setup to Lower Your CB7
Fluid Capacities
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Originally posted by Accord problems View PostWhen it does not start listen for the main relay . It will make a CLICKING noise from under the dash . I no clicking then i would suspect main relay . I once had a interment no start and when it did not start there would be no clicking from main relay. I fix main relay and problem went away .
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I'd bring a tool 8 or 10 mil socket.
Drive around and when it dies unscrew the service port on the fuel rail and turn the key on to see if u have fuel flow.
Check also the ground on the thermostat housing.What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.
You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!
Retro!
Hater
I love nooBs...They make me look good
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Originally posted by accordztech View PostI'd bring a tool 8 or 10 mil socket.
Drive around and when it dies unscrew the service port on the fuel rail and turn the key on to see if u have fuel flow.
Check also the ground on the thermostat housing.
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You will see a ground bolted directly on the thermostat. I'm highly doubting thats your issue tho.What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.
You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!
Retro!
Hater
I love nooBs...They make me look good
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Originally posted by heretoaskstuff View PostIs it possible that it could be a clogged cat chokin down the engine? Because all electrical stuff still works after it cuts off. The interior lights and high beams dim a little every now and then though.
I have seen pictures of catalysts clogged with MMT (a fuel additive to raise octane that used to be available in Canada). But even here the clogging was only around the edges and the center of the catalyst was still open. It reduced power and fuel economy a bit, but not so much that the driver would notice.
I'm not saying it can't happen. But it is rare these days.
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Originally posted by wagon-r View PostClogged catalysts are largely a thing of the past. Modern catalysts have much better substrates, which both flow better and are less likely to break up.
I have seen pictures of catalysts clogged with MMT (a fuel additive to raise octane that used to be available in Canada). But even here the clogging was only around the edges and the center of the catalyst was still open. It reduced power and fuel economy a bit, but not so much that the driver would notice.
I'm not saying it can't happen. But it is rare these days.
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