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f20b build advice please

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    #1

    f20b build advice please

    Ok so I posted a while ago about my f20b swap not firing up. Solved the problem. was 2 dead cylinders. So getting another swap for my car and putting that on stand. I want to bore it out but I haven't figured out if I'm going 87mm stroker or 86mm stock stroke with bisi f20b pistons. Is there really that big of a difference between the 2?
    Tags: None
    #2
    Boring the stock sleeves can be risky. The F20B is already an open deck block, so it would only serve to further weaken the cylinders. I'd stick to the stock bore, personally.






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      #3
      From what I hear the f20b is a smaller bite size than an h series. Since Japan Had limitations in performance. Honda made the f20 which is similar to the h22 to be able to run in the 2.0 class. So opening up the bore I wouldn't see an issue with it. Especially over 1mm. But it truly depends on what you are planning To do with it

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        #4
        The F20B also has iron sleeves, while the H22A has FRM sleeves. FRM is stronger and lighter, allowing for thinner cylinder walls. Boring the stock iron sleeves with the F20B's open deck block could be disastrous.






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          #5
          Originally posted by deevergote View Post
          The F20B also has iron sleeves, while the H22A has FRM sleeves. FRM is stronger and lighter, allowing for thinner cylinder walls. Boring the stock iron sleeves with the F20B's open deck block could be disastrous.
          Well that I did not know. Simply going on some of what I have seen/read. I apologize for providing wrong information.

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            #6
            Most of what you said was correct. You may not be 100% wrong. I only suggested something that wasn't taken into consideration.

            These engines are a minimum of 10 years old, so doing major modifications to ANY part that withstands any significant amount of stress can have serious consequences. Always best to err on the side of caution, especially when a shortcut can result in damage that would be considerably more expensive than just doing it right the first time!






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              #7
              I always thought the frm's are weaker in the "h" do to lighter than the iron sleeves in the f ? or at least thats what i have been told.
              this was put together by evil_demon_01 . You can also fined all this and more by him in the Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST

              Not this one though.1990 to 1993 accord fuel psi .

              Car safety checks
              Diagnose a Check Engine Light (also S/D4 transmission error codes)
              How to Set Base Idle Properly (F22ax, F22bx)
              Cheapest Suspension Setup to Lower Your CB7
              Fluid Capacities

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                #8
                The F20B can be bored out 1mm over without any immediate issues. I've had it done on mine and it checked out with the machine shop. They didn't sonic test it afterward but the block was magnafluxed for the other external issues at the same time and they stand by their boring job.

                I have a question for the OP. What difference does the bore make in your stroke decision? Why are those not independent? Either way, rule out an 87mm bore from your list of possibilities and you'll be fine. Also remember that the F20B has 55mm mains and will need a matching crank to fit the journals.
                My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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