high rpm sputter

[Stoner51]

Even with the resistor box deleted the injector dead times for the 290 and 345 injectors are different. So you really can't use a p13 with anything but the 345 injectors.

This of course is in a perfect world.



steve

[deevergote]

Saturated and peak & hold injectors are rated differently, though, aren't they?
Though agreed... it wouldn't be ideal. Still better than 440s.

[cb9love]

Even with the resistor box deleted the injector dead times for the 290 and 345 injectors are different. So you really can't use a p13 with anything but the 345 injectors.

This of course is in a perfect world.



steve

so deevergote wants me too not only hack apart a good wire harness he also wants me too put in undersized injectors wont this cause a lean condition and cranking up stock injectors just creates a irregular spray pattern so how is too small better than higher quality injectors that are capable of more adjustment

[deevergote]

No, I want you to use the correct parts, but you're clearly too smart to do that.
The OBD1 and OBD2 injectors are different types. OBD1 is peak and hold (high impedance), and OBD2 is saturated (low impedance). The 'too small' saturated injectors work just fine on a stock OBD2 H22 with a stock P13, so I don't see how I'm giving you bad advice there. There are also ways to avoid hacking up the harness... I merely suggested splicing because anything more complicated clearly wouldn't appeal to you. You seem to like to halfass things.

Go ahead and get some GSR injectors then. I'm sure 240cc will work just fine!


Your car doesn't run properly. I told you how to fix it, and you argue. Do you want to fix your problem, or not?

[cb9love]

No, I want you to use the correct parts, but you're clearly too smart to do that.
The OBD1 and OBD2 injectors are different types. OBD1 is peak and hold (high impedance), and OBD2 is saturated (low impedance). The 'too small' saturated injectors work just fine on a stock OBD2 H22 with a stock P13, so I don't see how I'm giving you bad advice there. There are also ways to avoid hacking up the harness... I merely suggested splicing because anything more complicated clearly wouldn't appeal to you. You seem to like to halfass things.

Go ahead and get some GSR injectors then. I'm sure 240cc will work just fine!


Your car doesn't run properly. I told you how to fix it, and you argue. Do you want to fix your problem, or not?

diagnostics is not replacing parts its trouble shooting the problem what you want me too do is replace parts not fix the car

[evil_demon_01]

diagnostics is not replacing parts its trouble shooting the problem what you want me too do is replace parts not fix the car

There is no diagnosing to be done, The current injectors are too big, and the ECU isn't tuned for them, simple as that.
You already established that.


Now people explain to you how to rectify the problem and you jump on them, suggesting they don't know what their talking about?

That's a real great way to get NO help.

[deevergote]

When you're using the wrong parts, how else do you expect to fix the problem? Close your eyes and wish real hard?

Replace the wrong parts with the correct ones, and your car will run properly. Why is that so difficult to understand?

[cb9love]

ok we just got done with the h22 swap from a running prelude donor
no CEL
but she stutters or bogs at 6000 rpms and seems sluggish on acceleration
the wagon was running, smoking abit with its 26100 miles of abuse, the prelude was also running really nice , with a tranny that shifts like butter. any ideas
chipped p13 supposed stock tune
rc 440 injectors
aem fuel rail
aem fuel pressure regulator
remaned dizzy
new rotor
new cap

the diagnostic solution was that a rich condition causes sputtering at high rpm so adjust your fuel pressure either by changing your injectors or use a adjustable fuel pressure regulator (at least next time someone searches this forum for this there will be a legit answer)

[deevergote]

Do you know the meaning of the word "diagnostic"?
Your solution is a band-aid. My solution is the correct one. I hope anyone that searches this forum in the future understands that.
You clearly believe you know more than the people you're asking to help you, so why even bother? Just figure it out yourself if you're not going to take the advice given to you.

[cb9love]

I hate too drag up this old thread but it was left with misinformation.
The part that i should have been raked over the coals for was (wait for it)
yep the remaned dizzy
after replacing the ignitor once with a known good one (yeah right good enough for the old f22 not good enough for the h22) and still having the same symptoms I moved away from the ignitor too other sources. I even took Deeves advice and picked up a obd1 p13 and injectors. yeah it did idle nicer but i didnt do this swap to have a good idleing car, It was still crapping out at the top. so now what ? I go ahead with the rest of the swap (5lug rear disc conversion). I had to get as much done before winter hits and while i still had my build budget. Now thats all done but we still have this issue with high rpms . Its not that cool having too shift your h before 4k all the time. Good god what is the problem ? Finally I find a thread while looking for symptoms of a failing fuel pump that goes on about high rpm sputtering and and the tach jumping around out of sync w/ the motor (hey my tach does that, I thought it was the circuit board going bad it did have a couple burnt spots on it) The thread says that the ignitor going bad will cause these problems. So I find a Hitachi ignitor inside of a old dizzy i got kicking around (it didnt want too come apart last time i tried swapping ignitors) I put that ancient ignitor into my remaned dizzy and what do you know she spins all the way out . sorry for the ramble .
everyone stock pile your self some oem ignitors like they were main relays or inside door handles.