brakes are really bad?

[dizzyw]

To begin with I have a 93 automatic accord lx and unsure if my car has ABS. Lately when I press the brakes I have to pretty much slam it all the way to the ground to get the car to fully stop. If i just hit the brakes like any other car it makes a loud noise and the car moves very slowly still which scares me a bit. If you know the problem, could you also please try to estimate how much fixing it would cost? I have very little car knowledge so please try to be detailed thank you cb7tuner!

[deevergote]

LX models do not have ABS. That's for EX and SE models only (or if you're in Canada, EX-R and SE)

It sounds like your pads are completely worn. The rotors are probably shot as well. If you have to push the pedal to the floor, the brake master cylinder might be gone as well.
If you're mechanically inclined, you can replace the pads, rotors, and master cylinder yourself. The rotors are a pain in the ass, but doable (and I'd plan on replacing the lower ball joints and wheel bearings at the same time.) The master cylinder will need to be bled properly, but it's not difficult if you read up on how to do it. Pads are cake, as long as you have a big C clamp to compress the caliper pistons.

To have it done professionally, it could cost a fair amount. Depending on where you go, parts and labor could be anywhere from $500-$1000, I'd expect. You're better off asking estimates from local shops, not guys on the internet, though. We're not going to be the ones doing the work, or charging you for it.

[wildBill83]

It's super easy to do brake pads and shoes, and you might want to get new rotors and drums too if yours are out of spec. The rotors are the hard part IMO because you have to pull the wheel bearing apart to change the rotor.

I would say a rough estimate would be $175-$300 in parts. Labor is up to the shop, unless you do it yourself.

If you did it yourself there are great guides on youtube and CB7Tuner as to how to get it done the fastest and simplest way.

'93 LX should not have ABS.

[deevergote]

You don't necessarily have to pull the bearings apart, though it often happens. My friend managed to change his rotors without damaging his bearings. I helped him... and I know now that I NEVER want to deal with captive rotors ever again!

There are ways to convert your captive rotors (difficult to remove) to "rotor over hub" (ROH), which is simple to remove. It'll cost you a fair amount if you buy the parts new, but it'll make front rotor replacement a walk in the park in the future.

[dizzyw]

Thanks for the quick replies guys, it really means A LOT to me that this community is always willing to help! I am a bit scared to drive the cb like this, so I needed to know as soon as possible. I am extremely short on money, so what are the most important things to do first?

[wildBill83]

I would be scared to drive it too.

I would start by inspecting your brake pads (front) and shoes (rear). You can buy really cheap crappy pads and shoes from Advance Auto or AutoZone or wherever and just throw them on as a temporary solution.

If you do this, I would expect it to not last long, but then maybe you can save up for the drums and rotors while they at least help you stop. Then you can purchase quality parts and do it all at once and correctly and it will last a long time.

Deev also makes a good point about the brake master, look over it for brake fluid.

Also, I know we skipped right over it, but when was the last time you checked your brake fluid level itself?

[deevergote]

From the sounds of it, your brakes are pretty much shot all around... and it's probably very dangerous to drive it like that.
Everything we mentioned, the master cylinder, the pads, the rotors... all are equally important.

The first thing to do is to put your front end in the air and inspect the front pads and rotors. Look up instructions for removing the pads. If there's a noise, it's likely that at least one pad is worn down to the metal backing (I've had this happen myself... inner driver's side pad... my calipers need to be rebuilt.) If the pad is worn down to the metal, then obviously it needs to be replaced. The metal pad backing will also cause pretty serious damage to the rotor.

When you are sitting at a stop, does your pedal continue to sink lower and lower, slowly? That's a sign of a failing master cylinder. If it goes to the floor right away, then either your fluid level is very low, you have air in the system, or the master cylinder has almost completely failed. Either way, the brake system won't work properly.

Inspect the pads first. Post pictures if you can. We'll be able to guide you better from there.

[BramptonCB]

My first CB had worn brakes when I bought it. I had to push the brakes to the floor to slowly stop and it would violently pump the brake pedal and the steering wheel would want to drive me into a ditch but after I changed the front brakes(pain in the ass) it was all good. As Deev said the Rotor over Hub is something to look into. that way you could also convert to 5 lug. Good luck with the brakes.

[deevergote]

Yeah, I have yet to do the ROH on my car... and I am also in need of some new wheels. I did just do a rear disc conversion as well. I'm seriously thinking of doing the 5 lug conversion!
That's the thing with these cars. If something breaks, you have the option to upgrade! Being so old, something is ALWAYS breaking.

[ktaylor660]

Also on the master cylinder...It does not always show signs of leaking. Mine went out, but showed no signs on the outside, as a seal inside went bad. I lost brakes with my family in the car on the interstate. I was having pedal to the floor issues and having to pump the brakes to stop. The master cylinder was around $50 and bench bleeding is a must to get the air out.

[Carolinasfinest]

Start at the pads and rotors, shoes and drums. They are the easiest diy. Next look towards the master cylender. If all that dont help check your break booster and vacuum lines.

[STOCKa6]

My car needed pads/rotors/calipers/hoses at all 4 corners and a M.C. when i bought it. Wasnt too bad but got scary after a few months(would have done them sooner, but money was super tight for a while). I quit driving it till rock auto got all the parts to me.

From rock auto I got all the parts for a decent price(went with wagner and raybestos brand), doing it was more difficult than it had to be, but wasnt too hard.

EDIT: the ERICTGECARGUY channel on you tube is your saving grace for those rotors. Also it was when the pedal lost all feel, and i lost the ability to stop the car well I stopped driving it. If you have some other way of getting around till its done, do not drive it.