Ok so im stuck trying to figure if I really need solid mounts...the only major up grade I have is the kaizenspeed balance shaft kit and is slightly bored over. I found regular oem rubber mounts for decent price but will they hold up like I would expect them to. I know the old ones lasted this long but there done for. Just trying to get the best ideas and info I can before I make a major purchase. To all thanks in advance
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Solid mounts v.s. Oem
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Originally posted by greenbeen90 View PostOk so im stuck trying to figure if I really need solid mounts...the only major up grade I have is the kaizenspeed balance shaft kit and is slightly bored over. I found regular oem rubber mounts for decent price but will they hold up like I would expect them to. I know the old ones lasted this long but there done for. Just trying to get the best ideas and info I can before I make a major purchase. To all thanks in advance
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Originally posted by lowandslowcb7 View PostPerhaps try the window weld method? It's a budget and old school move but it usually holds up pretty good. Just google window weld motor mounts and you will find plenty of threads.
second if your on budge and can't afford hasport,esp,innovative,etc. what you can do is keep you oem mount and filled them up with this http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=DIYMMI you can choose from three different grades for daily driven,track only and inbetween also you must take all four mount out and do it at the same time do to the mixture hard after 24 hr. and this last mine been filled with this stuff for over 3 to 4 year and still hold strong
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If you want to fill them up then use a Polyurethane to fill them up.. I used the liquid nails polyurethane to fill up my rear motor mount and I have never had any issue with it and its been holding fore more than 5 years already.
keep in mind when you do this mod you will feel the engine vibration in your car since the motors are not flexing to soften the feel.
overall it is a well worth mod the rear motor mount is a pain to change since there so little space to work with when removing it
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Many brands of liquid polyurethane exist, and they are often listed in the same way the Energy Suspension products are in terms of hardness.
Lazy people started the window weld method, and that has become the standard term for filling your own mounts.
I've had properly filled urethane mounts on my car for many years now, and it's held up fine. That's the best way to go if you're on a budget. Just prepare for a significant increase in vibration.
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I haven't done either method, mostly because I don't like dash rattles, but I don't know if I'd consider window weld a lazy method. It could just be that some don't want quite the harshness of urethane but do want some rigidity over stock. But again, I have no experience with either so I don't really know all of the cons for window weld.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
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Like I said, I don't know what I'm talking about. Just thinking of a possible explanation. Truthfully, that's what has kept me from filling my mounts. I want nothing to do with dash rattles.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#urethane-ca...pounds/=nqydp2
Thats the place to go. Got my stuff from them, worked amazing.wat?
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^wicked happy w/ my mcmaster carr 94A urethane, holding up perfectly for many years now. Thats also a good link that Pupildel posted too. I'd imagine since your motor is not stock you'd probably want to get the most out of it w/ the least amount of power loss through engine movement. I think you should go towards a solid mount, and solid doesn't have to mean solid as steel, depending on what you want, you can be alittle of both-comfort and performance. 94a is literally like plastic, very hard, no give, the motor does not move and therefore the vibrations sent through the car are insane. I've also done a set of 60a awhile back, way softer, that's what I'd recommend for that "both" category.
If you do go ahead w/ the DIY urethane, this is what I did. On every mount I've ever done, I used a sharp utility knife and cut out about 75% of the rubber but leaving enough to hold the center sleeve in the original place. This does 3 things: brand new sterile rubber for a great bond, more space for the urethane of your choice and the urethane ends up being "keyed" which makes it impossible for it to fall out even if it did come loose from the rubber. With this method I used 2 lbs of urethane for 4 mounts where-as most use 1 lb for 4 mounts. Another thing is you don't have to do all 4 either, the front and rear mounts hold the engine back from moving, the sides could be left stock and would absorb vibration.
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So is it a general consensus that the side mounts transfer most of the harmonics into the cabin?My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
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