Looking DIY Power Steering System Inspection

[wildBill83]

If it's p/s fluid coming out the boot your piston seal is blown and you're right to buy a new rack.

What are you using to take the bolts off.

[laloquera]

So what do I do about the exhaust manifold bolts. Anyone?

[laloquera]

Hell yeah! Found that DIY write up, its under "site features, SUS- DIY rack and pinion", for those who are interested.

[cb7 calling]

I bet you don't have to take off the exhaust. Once the tierods and bolts are removed you should be able to go out the passenger wheel well. Maybe the driver too.

[laloquera]

K, but are you sure about the clearance? The research I have read tells me the majority tend to remove the down pipe. If you can convince me it can be done by removing the tie, I would be a one happy hippy by avoiding and skipping one major loop to jump through.
Sorry for sounding so skeptical, but my down pipe is totally intact, which calls for an entire procedure to be added DIY sticky. Also, the DIY sticky is very old and appears to be the only one available, other members have revisited it time to time and have added their own two cents only after completing the job, I plan to contribute as well.
Looks like the moderators also have their work cut out, to maintain and revise old stickies.
Anyway, I got to got do some wrenching this morning, I’ll post up later.

[laloquera]

Here is the essentials from the sticky created back in 2005 (13 years old), if you visit the OG you will see a lot pictures and with over 100 plus visits.


Tools:
Ratchet
10, 12, 14 &16mm sockets
Extension Bar
12, 14 and 17mm wrench
Container to pour the old power steering fluid in
Breaker bar or long pipe
1.5 pints of power steering fluid
Jack Stands
Jack
Oil Pan
Helper Monkey

1. First raise the car and place it securely on jack stands. When raising the whole front end I like placing the jack where the engine crossbeam meets the chassis and lifting both front wheels at the same time.

2. Now disconnect the power steering fluid return hose and empty out the reservoir into a small container. Be ready with a cup because as soon as you disconnect the hose the fluid will start pouring out until the reservoir is empty.

3. Now this is where the helper monkey comes in to play…if you don’t have a helper monkey and hot chick will do…if you don’t have a hot chick then I guess your geeky neighbor will do. Have him turn the car on while you are at the power steering reservoir. As soon as the car turns on you will see the rest of the fluid start gushing out (which filled up my cup rather quickly). If need be, turn the car off and dispose of the fluid that has filled up your cup…there is still more in the system and you need to try to get it all out. Now turn the car on again and have your helper monkey turn the steering wheel from lock position to lock position until no more fluid is coming out of the hose…you have successfully drained the power steering fluid. Now reconnect the hose but DO NOT refill the reservoir yet.

4. Now go in the car and start removing the steering rack cover that is held in place by 3 plastic screws at the base and 2 ring springs on the column. Just unscrew the 3 plastic screws by hand and pull down on the ring springs until they pop off. Now just peel the plastic cover off and the steering rack will be exposed.

5. There are 2 10mm bolts that hold the rack and pinion to the steering rack. Turn the steering wheel until you are able to get to the 2 bolts. Remove them and slide the joint up.

6. Remove the cotter pin and the castle nut that connects the tie rod to the knuckle. Use a ball joint remover to safely disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle without damaging the ball joint.

7. Removing the tie rod makes it easier and gives you more room to remove the rack and pinion later. You do this by turning the nut at the end of the tie rod to your right while turning the tie rod to your left. Count how many turns it takes to remove the tie rod and write it down somewhere so when you are installing them onto the new R/P your toe will not be way off.

8. Disconnect the oxygen sensor and remove the b-pipe of the exhaust (3 14mm bolts at the header and 3 14mm bolts that connect to the exhaust) and the hanger that is connected to the engine cross bar

Remove the 3 10mm bolts that hold up the cover that exposes the lines that connect to the R/P

10. Use the wrenches to disconnect the 4 lines from the R/P…a small amount of power steering fluid will leak out.

12. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the new R/P--> Connect the 4 hoses--> Install the exhaust b-pipe, hanger and oxygen sensor--> Install the Tie rods--> Connect them to the knuckle--> Connect the R/P to the steering rack--> Place the steering rack cover on.

13. Now refill the reservoir checking that there are no leaks. Turn the car on and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock to bleed the system from air. Add more fluid as needed (I used about a pint and a half). Now get under the car again and check that there are no leaks coming from the 4 hoses. If there are not any, place the cover back on and you are done. Put the wheels back on and lower your car and take her out for a spin checking afterwards if you need to add more fluid. Now go get an alignment and you’re done…enjoy your new steering R/P.

[cb7 calling]

I have not removed my rack without taking out the exhaust but about a month ago I was doing my inner tie rods and it seemed like I could fish it out one side or the other to me. That is with the inner tie rods off though, which removing could he harder than cutting the exhaust bolts off.I gave it a pretty good look too but honestly I'm second guessing myself now. Jack you car up and look at your clearances. Remember inner tie rod removal takes a 17mm crowfoot wrench.

[laloquera]

Im gonna have to go with taking off my entire exhaust. I have not done this job before. Anyone know what year other CB7 would be a good fit for my 92 LX, does it matter?

[cb7 calling]

Any cb should fit. I guess I would get the rack from the lowest miles cleanest looking car the yard has.

[laloquera]

cb7 calling, good reason, but today was a hot day here in NorCal. I got on off from 93 lx sedan, any model 90 -93 are good. The passenger boot has a minute tear, I even may have created it while inspecting. Either I replace it or patch up the tear, other that that this rack & pinion is clean.
Im not going to install it till Sat. morning. I paid $68.00 and they offer $10.00 for the core, I think I can get more mula for it at a scrap metal recycling center.

[laloquera]

Dam! I cant get the rusted boltz off from my manifold and down pipe. WTF do I do, anyone? Im at a stand still here.

[laloquera]

Never mind, nailed it. Down pipe and muffler are completely off the coupe and laying on the ground. Rack & pinion is coming off first thing in the morning, hoping to be done by Sunday. Peace!

[laloquera]

Sonna of biskit! I just installed my rack & pinion, but notice a small slit in my passenger boot. It must of happened while I installed it, its a quarter of inch long between the ripples. Can I patch it up or rotate the boot for the slit to face up instead of facing down and leak out ps fluid. Help help, Im almost done with this job, but this has me at a stand still at the moment.

[oyajicool]

The boot is not to keep the fluid in. It is for keeping dust and dirt out.

I would order/buy a replacement boot. In the mean time, I would rotate the slit facing down instead of up so water won't accumulate inside the boot.

[laloquera]

Right on, its facing down. Im thinking of basicly patching it up with seal or gasket maker. Im even willing to use tape if I have to.