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D4 stays on problem. already changed TCU and main relay...

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    #1

    D4 stays on problem. already changed TCU and main relay...

    Hello all.

    So I have searched and read a lot of info in the past couple of weeks about this issue. I changed the TCU and the car ran fine for about two weeks. And now the issue has started once again.

    When it occurs, the D4 light will stay solid no matter where you move the gear shift. The car will feel like it has little power starting off, and is I guess stuck in 4 or 3. Getting to 55 mph makes the engine rev a bit and gets loud. Turning off the car will usually reset everything and the D4 will come on again randomly once I start driving. And additionally, the check engine light will come on from time to time when driving.

    I thought I had fixed the problem when I put in a different TCU, but now I don't know what to do. I also changed the main relay with the TCU. What should I do next? I have already tried to get codes with the blue connector. But the check engine is never on when I start the car, and the D4 light has only been on when starting the car, but maybe a few times. It usually happens while driving.

    So is it possible to even get codes if they don't come on when starting the car? When I test, the check engine light will blink non stop short blinks, but just goes forever it seems. The D4 does nothing when I try the blue connector.

    Anyone have any advice? Thanks!
    Tags: None
    #2
    Start here:
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html

    If the TCU is the culprit do not replace with another used one, you must either buy one that has already been repaired or repair it yourself:
    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...&highlight=TCU

    Comment

      #3
      Thanks wildbill. I have already read through your first link, it is what helped me decide to change the main relay and TCU. I am confused about what you said though...

      What is the reason you can't replace it with another working TCU?

      Comment

        #4
        The TCU that came in the car originally has poor electrical components, any original TCU will eventually fail in the same manner. A replacement unmodified will work for a short period. Also if you get a replacement refurbished TCU with updated electrical components and it also burns out then you have a solenoid current draw problem.

        Comment

          #5
          Have you tried reading any TCU error codes? That's what the D4 is telling you, and chances are your original TCU worked just fine. You'll find the info you need to read and interpret the TCU error codes in the "read here first" thread at the top of this section (nobody ever reads that first...)






          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by helpmyaccord View Post
            Thanks wildbill. I have already read through your first link, it is what helped me decide to change the main relay and TCU.
            Are you sure you read it closely and followed it to the letter?

            Originally posted by helpmyaccord View Post
            I have already tried to get codes with the blue connector. But the check engine is never on when I start the car, and the D4 light has only been on when starting the car, but maybe a few times. It usually happens while driving.

            So is it possible to even get codes if they don't come on when starting the car? When I test, the check engine light will blink non stop short blinks, but just goes forever it seems. The D4 does nothing when I try the blue connector.
            The first part of that link I gave you tells you how to check codes, the check engine light is telling you something else, but you should also learn how to read and repair that code too.

            Originally posted by deevergote View Post
            Have you tried reading any TCU error codes? That's what the D4 is telling you, and chances are your original TCU worked just fine. You'll find the info you need to read and interpret the TCU error codes in the "read here first" thread at the top of this section (nobody ever reads that first...)
            Deev is right, the info is in the stickies that no one ever reads. You could have just had bad shift solenoids if you never inspected the TCU circuits before replacing it.

            Comment

              #7
              If the solenoids were bad, the error code would likely have shown it (and likely still will, if the new TCU is functional.)

              I will never understand why so many people jump straight to replacing the TCU when the D4 or S light comes on unexpectedly.






              Comment

                #8
                When I took out the original TCU, we inspected it and it looked fine. We have another Accord, so we went ahead and replaced it to see what would happen, and the car ran great for a few weeks, until the problem just came back.

                I have tried to test for the codes, as I said in the original post. But the D4 light doesn't blink when I try to test for the code. It doesn't do anything. So how am I supposed to get the code?

                Comment

                  #9
                  I missed that. My apologies.






                  Comment

                    #10
                    No worries! When I jump the blue connector at the passenger side, the check engine light will now just stay solid forever, instead of blinking like it did a few days ago when I tried. However, the D4 light still does nothing, nor does anything else blink.

                    Maybe it doesn't recognize there is a problem because the D4 problem usually only occurs after starting the car and driving for a bit? So when getting to the point where you test for codes, it doesn't have the problem yet so there is no code to show? So if that's correct, would that mean something is making this happen once I start driving a bit?

                    Comment

                      #11
                      If a code was thrown at any time, it should be stored in the TCU's memory.

                      The key was to the II position when you tried checking the code, correct? The engine should not be running.






                      Comment

                        #12
                        If it shows the D4 light constant or blinking and there is no code when jumpered the TCU may be bad again.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Yes, I've looked over the instructions here, the link that wildbill gave, and I've read about jumping the connector for the codes from various places all over the internet.

                          The only things I've ever gotten is the Check Engine Light to blink constantly. But now today it will just stay solid. The engine isn't on when I check.

                          Also, the problem comes and goes. I can turn the car off and start it back up and it will run fine, and will run fine for maybe 5 miles and then randomly you can feel the car get stuck in a gear and it won't shift.

                          So you say the new TCU may be bad already. Is it possible something is burning out the TCUs? No matter how many TCU's I put in, it will eventually burn them out? Any idea what that could be, IF it's even the problem?

                          Again, thanks guys for any help! We've been messing with this for about a month and reading up on lots of things but can't pinpoint what the problem is. Thought it was a done deal with the new TCU, but it came back

                          edit: Also, I've been considering taking it to a shop. They will charge $70 to diagnose the problem. My question is, will they even be able to? I guess they will obviously know more than me, since all I know is what I find out from researching through Google. But if they aren't able to reproduce the problem by driving it, and they can't get the code by jumping it like I am, how will they find out what the actual problem is? Because sometimes we will try to drive the car to reproduce the problem, but we will drive for a while and it will never happen. So will the shop just end up replacing parts and thinking they have fixed it but then the problem will still happen for me? I feel like I may end up wasting money if I do this... anyone have any experience with taking it to the shop for this problem. I read on another site about a woman who had this problem, and she had to take it several times to be fixed because they were not actually fixing the problem for her, but she still had to pay each time.
                          Last edited by helpmyaccord; 07-09-2013, 06:24 PM.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            I would not take it to a shop, they will just replace the TCU or the transmission and not fix the actual problem.

                            You need to get a multimeter and test the current draw on the solenoids. Don't forget to test the shift lock solenoid as well, that is the one that killed my TCU. Yes it is very possible you have either a short or a bad component that is killing your TCU.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              We have tried to listen to the clicking of the solenoids by testing them with the battery. One MAYBE sounds a bit weak, but we thought they sounded strong overall. I took off the solenoid that is nearest the top of the car, just to inspect and it looked good as far as I could tell. I have not taken off the lower solenoids, I think those are the shift ones. They are sort of hard to get to, but I suppose I will start messing with those some more to see what I can find out.

                              Thanks!

                              Comment

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