A6 camshaft in A1 problem

[2winRB25]

I recently bought what I would consider an OEM performance package from someone.

H23A1 Intake manifold with IABs
H23A1 Throttlebody
F22A6 Intake runners
F22A6 PT6 ECU
F22A6 Camshaft
F22A6 Manifold and downpipe
F22A6 Ishino Exhaust manifold gasket set

I have installed the hybrid H23/A6 intake manifold successfully and used a Bisimoto intake manifold heat shield gasket. Everything went great. I wired up the IAB's to the PT6 ECU. I installed the A6 camshaft.

While I was at it I installed:

Ishino valve cover gasket set
Honda lower tube seals
Arai Seisakusho camshaft seal
NOK distributor seal
Ishino EGR valve gasket
VR Gaskets intake manifold gasket set

I noticed the camshaft I bought does not appear to be the same material as the camshaft I removed. It also does not have the typical wear of a camshaft I have seen that is used. It is used but it does not look like it was used much. So that makes me think it is a regrind.

The problem is at idle it runs slightly rough. No CEL, no vacuum leaks, the car runs and drives amazing and I can feel a major increase in power. Up past idle the engine runs perfectly smooth.

I removed the hood and placed my go pro camera where it would record the IABs working when I drive it and they open up at about 3800 rpm. So everything is working like it should.

When I bought everything the seller had 4 different F22A6 cams in his trunk. He told me to pick the one I want and I picked the best looking one. But now I'm almost positive its a regrind.

What do you all think?

If its a cam profile that makes it lope it surely needs a tune correct?

I don't have a cam card of course but will I really need to have the exact specs of the cam to have it tuned?

[deevergote]

The most common regrind tends to be the Delta 272, which I believe would cause a slight lope. If that's what it is, then a tune would certainly help. I've known people to run a 272 without a tune that claim no damage.

You could also contact the seller and ask to swap the cam for another. If it is indeed a regrind, I'm sure he wouldn't mind having it back to sell at a higher price!

[Accrdwgnguy]

Could be something else like a dirty IACV valve. Did you re-use your IACV or just use the one on the intake you bought?

You wouldn't need to know the cam specs for the tuner to tune it, they tune by the AFR and feedback from the ECU.

[2winRB25]

I did contact the seller and he said he noticed it had a different tint to it as well. He said he suspected it to be just a regular A6 camshaft and that he personally pulled it out of the car it was from. So he didn't really know a whole lot on it either but said he would exchange the camshaft and perform the swap if need be.

Also he claims he knows the people at the salvage yard he goes to and he is on his way there now to check the car out and see if he can find any evidence of it being anything other than an A6 camshaft.

It runs so good I really don't want to mess with it. And if it is a Delta 272 and it won't hurt anything then I would gladly keep it. It does seem like it has a power band now, right at about 4300rpm so a little after the IABs open.

[2winRB25]

Could be something else like a dirty IACV valve. Did you re-use your IACV or just use the one on the intake you bought?

You wouldn't need to know the cam specs for the tuner to tune it, they tune by the AFR and feedback from the ECU.

The IACV came pre cleaned with a new OO shaped seal. The screens are shiny and it appears to be cleaner than the one I removed off my F22A4.


And I just realized I screwed the title of this thread up. I have an F22A4 but that wont change anything since the A1 & A4 is the same but the exhaust manifold but I'm saying this just for the record.

[Jarrett]

If it's a Delta regrind then it will have "260", "272" or "282" engraved into the distributor end of the camshaft. You can pull the distributor and look with a flashlight and see. If not, then chances are it's just a 4A camshaft from an F22A6 just as advertised.

[GhostAccord]

What valve clearances did you use when you adjusted them? If you put them on the tight side that could cause a bit of a lope.

Did you set the base idle and base timing after the cam instal?

Also when you started the car up for the first time did you allow the ECU to go through it's learning period?

[2winRB25]

The seller got back with me and said he just pulled a P74 ECU out of the car with Honda data. I really don't know what that means yet but I'm searching now. He said he can't believe he didn't check it before so I'm assuming its a big deal.

If it's a Delta regrind then it will have "260", "272" or "282" engraved into the distributor end of the camshaft. You can pull the distributor and look with a flashlight and see. If not, then chances are it's just a 4A camshaft from an F22A6 just as advertised.

The cam says 272 on the distributor end.

So I take it the P74 ECU that I'm going to receive from him will be tuned for the 272 camshaft right?

[GhostAccord]

It may be tuned for the 272 camshaft, however that junk yard Accord may have had other mods that you do not have. You will want to check out the Hondata tune with a local tuner before you go beating on your engine while using that P74.

The P74 also doesn't usually have IAB circuits. So that tune may also be for an F22 that does not have IAB's. That being said the IAB components can be added to the ECU. You may want to have that ECU checked out before you plug it in and run it. Good ECU to have if you know someone who can tune Hondata for you.

[2winRB25]

What valve clearances did you use when you adjusted them? If you put them on the tight side that could cause a bit of a lope.

Did you set the base idle and base timing after the cam instal?

Also when you started the car up for the first time did you allow the ECU to go through it's learning period?

9 thousands on intake and 11 thousands on exhaust.

The only thing I did was let it sit and run for 15 mins after I got it all together and confirmed there were no problems.

[2winRB25]

It may be tuned for the 272 camshaft, however that junk yard Accord may have had other mods that you do not have. You will want to check out the Hondata tune with a local tuner before you go beating on your engine while using that P74.

The P74 also doesn't usually have IAB circuits. So that tune may also be for an F22 that does not have IAB's. That being said the IAB components can be added to the ECU. You may want to have that ECU checked out before you plug it in and run it. Good ECU to have if you know someone who can tune Hondata for you.

The seller basically said the same thing you just told me. And there is a tuner about 60 miles north of me in Springfield who can dyno tune with Hondata according to him.

Thank you very much for your help this far and everyone one else in this thread too.

The only question I have now is can I go ahead and put the ECU in my Accord and see how it does?

[GhostAccord]

Do you have any way to monitor the ECU/sensors or at least watch the AFRs? If you don't know what the ECU is doing I would be very careful about throwing an unknown ECU into your car.

If you want to run it keep an eye on your temp gauge and how the engine is acting. Checking the spark pugs every now and then would help tell you how the engine is running. Black out the tail pipe = rich.

[2winRB25]

Do you have any way to monitor the ECU/sensors or at least watch the AFRs? If you don't know what the ECU is doing I would be very careful about throwing an unknown ECU into your car.

If you want to run it keep an eye on your temp gauge and how the engine is acting. Checking the spark pugs every now and then would help tell you how the engine is running. Black out the tail pipe = rich.

Ok, now that I know its that risky I won't do it.

I met the seller half way and got it. He charged me $25 because that is what they charged him.

Anyways the sticker on the ECU says:

Humble Performance
8117 E. 48th St.
Tulsa OK 74145 USA
918-461-8951

And after a Google search I found this: http://humbleperformance.com/

So what I'm thinking is I will contact them and see what they can tell me about the ECU and the car.

I'm also debating going ahead and doing a couple more performance mods and then taking it and have it tuned by them.

I know I need a wideband because my I needed that when I had my RB powered 240 tuned by 417 Racing. But anything else I should look at before proceeding?

[GhostAccord]

Give those cats a call down at Humble and let them know about your setup and pland to have them tune your car. They should be able to tell you what else, if anything, that you will need.

From reading that site, you should make sure everything is up and running without issue before you go.... That's the same for most tuners.

[2winRB25]

Give those cats a call down at Humble and let them know about your setup and pland to have them tune your car. They should be able to tell you what else, if anything, that you will need.

From reading that site, you should make sure everything is up and running without issue before you go.... That's the same for most tuners.

Ok thanks for putting me on the right track! Since the opportunity to have it tuned to cheap came up I might as well go ahead with it. You are a huge help and I can tell you really know your stuff, I can't thank you enough! I will make sure and +1 rep you when I get home and I'm not using my phone.