I've never heard of this 90 degree angle you speak of. What part of the stock manifold has a 90 degree bend?
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I think he just means the part that bolts up to the head. its more like a 120 degee angle
C-3PO's MRT USDM yo!
then i see my baby, suddenly I'm not crazy,
It all makes sense when i look into her eyes
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personally im not sure, i havent really taken that deep of a look, its actually an intresting factoid our instructor at college shared with us during fuel injection and exhuast segment of the course. he went on and on for it for about two hours ^.^'' speaking of hows your schooling going deev?
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On hold at the moment.
So basically you're spouting something that you heard elsewhere, without knowing any details whatsoever?
A Google image search showing a stock F22A exhaust manifold (there are 3 of them on the various USDM models) and where the bend is would be a huge help. Either I'll learn something new, or you'll realize that you're spreading bad information. One or the other would be a benefit to this community.
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i know its not bad information, this guy has helped develop several of gmc's and fords engines, as well as a quite a few of fords diagnostic tools, he never took us to a car and physically showed us, it came up when somone had asked about headers. ill talk to him and verify because i looked up the headers and believe i see what part hes talking about, but again he didnt show us but told us if we want better performance ditch the stock.
http://www.linkedin.com/pub/rodney-perkins/65/3b2/933
thats him on linkedin, talk to him if youve got question and dont wana wait for my reply lol
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Technically there are 2 90°s on a stock F22A header or manifold and down pipe. There is one as soon as the header leaves the engine and goes down in front of the engine. This could be between a 90° and maybe 120°. Then there is the 90° that turns the exhaust down under the engine. Some may be a longer radius than other but hey are still pretty close to 90°
This can all be negated with the use of proper fluid dynamics..... look at any F1 or race engine that has a limited space for exhaust manifolds. You can do complete 180°s as long as you maintain flow velocity. You do this by changing the ID of the tubing and maintaining EGtemps.
It is also better to have the first bend a certain distance from the back of the exhaust valve based on peak Power RPM of the engine. This is getting into exhaust resonance tuning. You do the same with the intake and overlap of the valves. There is more to designing an exhaust header than just removing all the bends.
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Originally posted by Firstoff View Posti know its not bad information, this guy has helped develop several of gmc's and fords engines, as well as a quite a few of fords diagnostic tools, he never took us to a car and physically showed us, it came up when somone had asked about headers. ill talk to him and verify because i looked up the headers and believe i see what part hes talking about, but again he didnt show us but told us if we want better performance ditch the stock.
http://www.linkedin.com/pub/rodney-perkins/65/3b2/933
thats him on linkedin, talk to him if youve got question and dont wana wait for my reply lol
If you can't support it, don't say it. Otherwise, other people will start repeating it, and they will also be unable to support it. The next thing you know, ANY header/manifold with a 90 degree bend will be "bad".
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thats the point of taking out the stock header is it removes that sharp bend and smoothes it out, ive been looking at the pictures and i can clearly see the sharp angles in contrast to the aftermarkets, which tend to be more loopy, not necessarily less bends but allowing it to flow better. and yes his information is PROVEN.
and it is applied to cb's per ghost accords description above, like he says its more complicated but still within what i had saidLast edited by Firstoff; 07-02-2013, 09:00 PM.
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Originally posted by CBBeno1 View PostWaiting for h23 Intake
Mani I scored. 35 bux for isn't bad so well
See.
a) You can leave the butterfly values open, which is great for high rpm torque but will cost you low rpm torque
b) You can leave them closed, which is great for low rpm torque but will cost you high rpm torque.
c) You can buy an IAB controller and check valve, run wires to the ECU to control the butterfly valves, and buy an F22A6 ECU. For $35, I can pretty much guarantee that your H23 manifold didn't come with any of this stuff.
I made the same mistake when I bought my H23 intake manifold. I wound up paying more for all the valve control stuff than I would have if I had been more careful about buying a manifold that came with all of it in the first place.
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Originally posted by wagon-r View PostYes, but the H23 intake manifold has butterfly valves in it. So, unless you are starting with an F22A6 engine (which I doubt, as you wouldn't need the H23 intake if you had an F22A6), you have choices:
a) You can leave the butterfly values open, which is great for high rpm torque but will cost you low rpm torque
b) You can leave them closed, which is great for low rpm torque but will cost you high rpm torque.
c) You can buy an IAB controller and check valve, run wires to the ECU to control the butterfly valves, and buy an F22A6 ECU. For $35, I can pretty much guarantee that your H23 manifold didn't come with any of this stuff.
I made the same mistake when I bought my H23 intake manifold. I wound up paying more for all the valve control stuff than I would have if I had been more careful about buying a manifold that came with all of it in the first place.
I just today bought all this from a local guy I found on craigslist. For $100 he sold me the PT6 ecu, A6 camshaft, A6 intake manifold runners, Black IAB box, H23 intake manifold and throttle body. The EGR ports are even pre cleaned and with new plugs. I guess he rounds up parts and sells them to Accord people.
Anyways, he showed me the exact same set up on his Accord and I think it should be an easy swap. I just hope it gives me the power its supposed to.
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Originally posted by 2winRB25 View PostI just today bought all this from a local guy I found on craigslist. For $100 he sold me the PT6 ecu, A6 camshaft, A6 intake manifold runners, Black IAB box, H23 intake manifold and throttle body. The EGR ports are even pre cleaned and with new plugs. I guess he rounds up parts and sells them to Accord people.
Anyways, he showed me the exact same set up on his Accord and I think it should be an easy swap. I just hope it gives me the power its supposed to.
What hp are you aiming for with a PT6 ECU and A6 cam swap?
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Originally posted by GhostAccord View PostAll that for $100. I would say that law enforcement has a different word for what he does.....lol
What hp are you aiming for with a PT6 ECU and A6 cam swap?
I was aiming for equal horsepower to an F22A6 really. So 140hp.
Originally posted by deevergote View PostIt's SO nice to see new members that 1) know what they're talking about, and 2) know what it means to do things right!
Installed correctly on a healthy F22A1, those parts should give you at least 20-25hp, while remaining as reliable and efficient as stock.
If I could get 20hp I would be super happy. I need to run a compression check but the kind of compression tester I have needs an air compressor to operate and mine is being borrowed by a friend.
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I wonder if it was Josh (H311RA151N). He's from MO, and a good dude. Doesn't come around here much anymore, sadly.
Anyway, the difference between the F22A1 and F22A6 is 15hp, and the H23A1 manifold surely adds around 5 at the very least! As long as your F22A is healthy inside, 20hp is practically guaranteed.
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostI wonder if it was Josh (H311RA151N). He's from MO, and a good dude. Doesn't come around here much anymore, sadly.
Anyway, the difference between the F22A1 and F22A6 is 15hp, and the H23A1 manifold surely adds around 5 at the very least! As long as your F22A is healthy inside, 20hp is practically guaranteed.
I forgot to mention I have the F22A4. But still my goal is equal to or slightly greater than that of an F22A6. So 10hp. The guy I bought the parts from said the A4 exhaust manifold I have will work fine with the parts I bought so I have everything and I'm ready to get started on it.
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