need turbo recomendation

[v8vega355]

I know that you already spent a pretty penny for all that you've done so far but, what kind of a budget are you working with for your turbo, if you don't mind me askin? Because if I had a little more cash to play with, go with a new turbo instead of an old one where you don't know what kind it's in or how much abuse it's been through. I would gear towards Ball bearing types because of the faster throttle responses, reduced oil flow, and improved durability, since you mentioned "frequent driving".

Just my two cents...

i liked the idea of using a dsm turbo because i only have 350hp goal with it sitting at 300ish most the time ill find out how many psi it takes to get to both but the dsm turbo is everywhere i can get cheep ebay wannabees but i would rather find a used o.e. one. plus ive heard that i might be able to keep my a/c . it not so much a budget thing its a functionality thing and being a sleeper is kinda cool too.

as far as budget goes im going to take my time and buy the right parts i have the cash to build it now but im looking for good deals as i buy parts. and doing more research as i build. i still need to buy a second engine to build. but if i can find what i need while waiting on other things to get done at a good deal, ill jump at the good deal. i have what i want to build in my head but things change. im pretty sure i want to stay with stock block because i am not looking to build a race car just something fun to drive. im hoping all i have to do is put an lsd in the trans but ive heard that a h22 trans has an lsd option i just dont want the super low gears of an h22 trans. but ill get there later

[deevergote]

A DSM turbo is a 14b or a t25... or a 9B, but we're not interested in those at all (3000GT VR4 turbos)

The 16G is not from a DSM.



Also, just because you're not looking to race doesn't mean the stock block is a good idea. The sleeves will still present a weak point. Especially over 300whp. Daily driving can actually be harder on an engine than occasional racing.

[v8vega355]

A DSM turbo is a 14b or a t25... or a 9B, but we're not interested in those at all (3000GT VR4 turbos)

The 16G is not from a DSM.



Also, just because you're not looking to race doesn't mean the stock block is a good idea. The sleeves will still present a weak point. Especially over 300whp. Daily driving can actually be harder on an engine than occasional racing.

sorry i was referring to the dsm manifold and how an evo was a mitsu i was still thinking it was a dsm just because of the brand this is why im working for honda now ha ive worked around a few mitsu but i was never into them.

as far as the block as long as i can get a couple years out of it its all i care if a break a sleeve and all my parts are still good then i have learned the hard way if i break other parts then ill be really sad. i only drive the car a few times a week and im at the point where im selling off all my other projects and will probably get another cb7 to build. the 90 i have now is a car i wouldnt think twice about hopping in and driving on a 5k mile road trip and gets over 26mpg city and last time we took it to Montana got 33mpg. so as far as a DD if it does break its not my only transportation. im trying to keep the car nice to drive like get in and take it on a cruise if i want to and if im not beating on it have it drive as close to stock as it does now. this is why im trying to focus on the DD idea

how many problems have been actually seen with a build like this. ive seen lots of 400+ hp dynos on stock sleeves but other then a dyno ive never seen how long they run after a year or 2


what is typical price to get a blocked sleeved. i keep hearing about 1500 but i just want to verify

[KeeleDesign]

that turbo you posted won't work for you. I don't believe.
It's off a newer evo and has reverse cut propeller fins. And the benefit of using oem turbo parts like the manifold off a dsm is pointless if you try to modify a twin scroll to work with it.
Pass on this turbo, do not buy this one.

[v8vega355]

thanks. will pass on it

[J_Hart]

I wouldn't push overbored sleeves beyond 300whp. The F22Ax is an open deck design, and you'll be weakening the sleeves by boring them.

I wouldn't say 300whp would be a liability on stock sleeves, though my foremost concern is why anyone would over-bore them a full millimeter in the first place.

For a goal of 300-400hp with mid 80mm bores, P2W clearance is generally recommended to be .003" to .004" for forged slugs, depending on the manufacturer. That's extra clearance you'll need to bore to get right off the bat even with 85mm pistons in an 85mm bore. Unless you have significant scaring or taper/egg-shaping of your cylinders, I'm of firm belief that simply boring to get your necessary P2W clearance is usually enough to clean up the cylinder walls. My point being, why not just run an 85mm piston and keep the extra liner material as free insurance?? I truly don't know why everyone immediately jumps to the conclusion that they need to run a full 1mm over-bore on stock liners.

So, do research on your turbo size, as Jarrett said. Spooling low seems good... but it'll kill fuel efficiency and increase wear considerably.

Totally agree with this. I'm not familiar with all the used turbos people recommend (I'm not a fan of used components), but I am a very big fan of a little Garrett T3/T4 50 trim, and recommend them all the time for 2.0 to 2.2l motors looking for 350-400hp. The compressor is SUPER efficient (not super small) and flows very well all the way up to it's maximum output which is just a couple lb/min less than the larger brother, the 57 trim. This turbo spools nice and quick on smaller displacement motors with a .63a/r turbine, and even faster if fitted to a .48a/r turbine. I've labored over compressor flow charts, and found the 50 trim to be one of the few small turbos that can run super efficiently at 250hp without running out of steam at 400hp. It will spool as soon as you put your foot into it, without being so small that it's peaky and keeps you driving around in part-throttle boost. The best part is that it's a base-model Garrett, with no blingin billit wheels to explode, doesn't require water cooling, and can be found brand new for around $600. I don't think you'll find a better combination of efficiency, reliability, and sheer potential for less than double that price.


EDIT:
Forgot to address the cam. Save yourself the dough and stick with a stock cam until you get it up and running. You might be surprised what you can achieve with just some good ole' stock parts.

EDIT #2:
I would see if you couldn't change your piston order to some 85 or 85.25mm slugs, and slightly bump compression to give you the torque you're after. 9.5 to 10:1 compression would be my recommendation with a competent tuner. If you can order them with the ceramic coated crowns, I wouldn't hesitate to go up to 10.5:1. The 'larger' bores of these F's are a natural detonation deterrent, and the ceramic coating will prevent hotspots on edges, further preventing the risk of detonation.