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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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pulsating idle
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try putting it back on.this was put together by evil_demon_01 . You can also fined all this and more by him in the Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST
Not this one though.1990 to 1993 accord fuel psi .
Car safety checks
Diagnose a Check Engine Light (also S/D4 transmission error codes)
How to Set Base Idle Properly (F22ax, F22bx)
Cheapest Suspension Setup to Lower Your CB7
Fluid Capacities
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One of the valves could be failed. If a valve failed, it could very well be drawing the air through the bypass in the throttle body, and you wouldn't be able to diagnose this like a regular external leak. This is a classic FITV/intake leak issue. I can't find the video of the Honda technician explaining it, but basically what's happening here is this:
- Extra air is drawn into the system via the intake leak.
- The extra air causes the engine RPM to increase (because the ECM dumps fuel to match the metered air, I believe).
- The engine RPM increases beyond the upper set point (1200 RPM I believe) for deceleration detection. That is, if the throttle plate is closed, and the engine is above 1200 RPM, the system shuts off fuel supply to the engine to conserve fuel because it assumes you are coasting/slowing down.
- The system shuts off fuel supply.
- The engine RPM decreases beyond the lower set point (not sure where this is really, maybe 800 RPM?).
- The system restores fuel supply.
- See step 1.
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No need to take the head off. As well, I'm not stating that this is definitely your issue, but based off of the information given, this is where I would look first.
Replacing the vacuum lines is a good idea, even if you couldn't find a leak. It's also cheap.
If that doesn't fix the issue, then you can start inspecting valves+gaskets there-for. If there is any sort of leak, you won't be able to adjust your base idle (via the base idle set screw) below a given point. I don't know what that point is off hand, but you should be able to adjust it down to about 500 RPM I think (perhaps you can adjust it until the engine stalls, I don't know). Also note that when you set it, you need to disable (by unplugging) the IACV; this is because the system will be opening the IACV depending upon the detected load (purposefully creating a "leak").
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Here, the fella in this video will explain the same, but with a video and actual measurement to fill you in. Low coolant will keep the coolant from causing the FITV to shut. If a valve is failed, you will have the same result on your hands (more air is getting past the throttle plate than should be).
Last edited by reklipz; 06-23-2013, 02:02 AM.
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