What kind of oil should i use???

[CB7Kenneth]

Ive got a 1992 accord LX 5spd. It has been sitting in the garage ( It runs fine ) for about a year. I just bought her yesterday, and i was wondering what oil would be best to use to keep her running. She has 110k, I picked her up for 300.

[H311RA151N]

Your just mainly going to get opinions on this thread just to let you know.

I think most people on here run Castrol GTX 10w30. I run Rotella 10w30.

bobistheoilguy.com has a lot of good info on this topic.

A couple threads on here on the topic.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=45301

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=115088

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=142773

Here is the fluid capacities thread just in case you need it.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=55269

[mtnbikaah]

I run conventional oil, 5w30.

[dysfunk]

I run SuperTech conventional 10w30.

[reklipz]

I run conventional 5W-30, either pennzoil, mobil, or valvoline; whichever is on sale with a filter whenever I need to do the change. It probably wouldn't matter if I ran the cheapest API rated 5W-30 or 10W-30, but I like the piece of mind that extra few bucks provides.

Don't let anyone fool you, there is plenty of evidence that a synthetic will lubricate better at cold/start-up. It will also last longer too, but you need to couple that with a larger filter or similar to really take advantage. Synthetics also cost more, but this may be offset by the extended oil change interval; you'll have to run the numbers. As far as lubricating: all oils that are API rated will meet that API rating, which the SAE has deemed as "quality." Some oils may "lubricate better" or something "magical" that the SAE API ratings don't convey, but there isn't really a standards body to confirm or deny this. The SAE gradings and API ratings are what all of the engineers say is all you need.

[tutsuo]

Jesus -.-" I'm turbo and i run 20w50 AMS Oil

[cb7rush]

The cheaper the oil, the less tests that have been done to ensure that the oil is good. Meaning no name brands such as autozone oil or pep boys brand oul are not tested to make sure the oul will even last the 3k miles. I have alot of customers who buy the cheapest oul because theyre going to "sell" the car and a week later they already burned 2 quarts just driving to work.

On my engine i used Castrol semi synthetic because i had the money for it. I also only ran a k&n filter that was changed every oil change at 5k miles. I used either 5w30 or 10w30. 10w30 for summer and 5w30 for winter.

[cb7rush]

Jesus -.-" I'm turbo and i run 20w50 AMS Oil

Turbo requires thick oil though. Most cars that come stock turbo recommend 10w30 or 10w40. I think 20w50 is too thick and mo car except some cars like old ass datsuns need that oil. Not becauae its old but because it came stock in that car.

[2doorhardcore]

im running 5w20 royal purple and filter.. always used in any car ive had and never had any problems...

[SOHC-FTW]

I run Rotella T or AMSOIL OE full synthetic, i'd concern yourself with a good filter purolator stp or wix come to mind as that is also what i use .

[H311RA151N]

I run conventional 5W-30, either pennzoil, mobil, or valvoline; whichever is on sale with a filter whenever I need to do the change. It probably wouldn't matter if I ran the cheapest API rated 5W-30 or 10W-30, but I like the piece of mind that extra few bucks provides.

Don't let anyone fool you, there is plenty of evidence that a synthetic will lubricate better at cold/start-up. It will also last longer too, but you need to couple that with a larger filter or similar to really take advantage. Synthetics also cost more, but this may be offset by the extended oil change interval; you'll have to run the numbers. As far as lubricating: all oils that are API rated will meet that API rating, which the SAE has deemed as "quality." Some oils may "lubricate better" or something "magical" that the SAE API ratings don't convey, but there isn't really a standards body to confirm or deny this. The SAE gradings and API ratings are what all of the engineers say is all you need.

Pennzoil is paraffin based which is wax. So is Quaker State.

I don’t get to opinionated about oils but when either of those two are brought up I feel I have to say something.

When Pennzoil cools (oil cools in the head) it creates a wax like build up when it hasn’t been frequently changed. Changing it like one should doesn’t make it an excuse to run it. There is other better oil for the same price or even cheaper that don’t ruin your engine if you don’t change it. I just don’t see giving a company money that their products can potentiality ruin your engine in any way.

I’d run Supertech from Wal-Mart way before I’d run Pennzoil. (Supertech isnt a bad oil BTW).

A great oil for the money is Havoline.

[cb7rush]

Pennzoil is parfum based which is wax. So is Quaker State.

I don’t get to opinionated about oils but when either of those two are brought up I feel I have to say something.

When Pennzoil cools (oil cools in the head) it creates a wax like build up when it hasn’t been frequently changed. Changing it like one should doesn’t make it an excuse to run it. There is other better oil for the same price or even cheaper that don’t ruin your engine if you don’t change it. I just don’t see giving a company money that their products can potentiality ruin your engine in any way.

I’d run Supertech from Wal-Mart way before I’d run Pennzoil. (Supertech isnt a bad oil BTW).

A great oil for the money is Havoline.

Pennzoil changed that design about half a year ago. So did Quaker State. Call them if you need to verify it, but its no longer the same wax shit as before.

[oni_cb7]

15w40 delo. Amazing oil.

[H311RA151N]

It still doesn’t change my opinion of their products and there are still a lot more oils to choose from. Ones that haven’t ever had a bad rap and have been proven to be good time and time again.

What have they done to cheap out now? Using paraffin was partially to keep the cost down. They were cheaping out when the economy was good I’ll bet they are still cheaping out now.

When someone screws you over you dont go back when they tell you "Ok, Im not going to screw you over anymore."

Why would someone want to use Pennziol anyways. There isnt anything appealing about it other than they say they have changed their design from one that sucked for 20+ years to a different better design that doesnt suck about a year ago. If one finds that appealing be my guest.

[Tippey764]

I would say just the cheapest shit possible that isn't Quaker state.

Mobile One
castrol
valvoline

All of the shit is the same IMO,

Don't waste money on super expensive oil because your motor really isn't worth it. These motors last awhile being treated like shit so giving it regular oil changes, no matter how cheap they are is good enough for a stock motor.