Emissions Guru! Please Help, Failed 4 tests in a row.

[JusAlil4Banger]

Hi everyone! I'm having a heck of a time, trying to get my cb to pass emissions testing. Since last November, I've failed 4 smog test in a row. I've been doing everything I can think of to make it pass, but now I'm becoming discouraged! My car has been un-registered since the beginning of last September. So anyways, I have all the test results from these 4 previous tests, and I'm going to post them up here, along with everything I changed or replaced before each test. I'm hoping and praying that its some minor problem that I'm overlooking....

Okay, so before i start, here's some relevant info. The car - 93' EX sedan, with JDM H22a, and M2B4. running on USDM P13. As far as i know, and have tested, all my sensors and wiring are good. Before the first smog test was even preformed, i had already replaced, FUEL FILTER, CATALYTIC CONVERTER, HEADER-BACK EXHAUST W/2.25 PIPING, SPARK PLUG WIRES, relatively NEW DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR, relatively NEW DENSO o2 SENSOR. I've always ran 89 octane, but after I failed the second test, I switched to 91.

Test Results-



I've tested the EGR system extensively, and seems to be operating correctly. The smog ref made me remove the fuel pressure regulator solenoid, before the first test, cause he claims it's not shown in the vacuum diagram for a 94' H22, so for the first 3 tests, there was no FPR solenoid hooked up. Also, after the second test is when i really gave the EGR a good testing,also started testing the radiator fan, cause it has never worked right, and and then i realized that I had Fan switches A and B, hooked up backwards, cause when I did my swap, I guess I just crossed them cause they'er both green and both connect in the same area. So after i hook them back up the right way, and go test drive, and throw a CEL... I stop and read the code, and its a 43. Fuel system delivery code. Keep in mind, I never throw CEL's! so then after that, my car would pop on the CEL every time i drove it, at exactly the distance, every time. I knew that because it would turn on at the same street, every time i would leave my house. So i went to a guy to get a pre test(3rd test)with the CEL on, and that was the only time the NOx was passing,it dropped down to 193 ppm! but the CO spiked super high, at 9.7 So i come home and decided to re-connect the FPR solenoid, that the smog ref made me take off... so i put it back on and reset the ECU, and go test drive. No more CEL! so then i install the new o2 Denso o2 sensor, which i bought because i thought i may have gotten my old one greasy when changing my exhaust system. I hear the o2 sensors can get fouled very easily, and they'er very touchy. also a new distributor cap. hen i go test again, and i was thinking i for sure had it this time! but another fail. Somebody please inform me!! Im sorry if this is way too much jumbled up information! its just so hard to get out on a key board
Thanks everybody!

[Quashish]

Would higher octane be causing more incomplete combustion = too rich bad numbers?

[reklipz]

Have you checked the base ignition timing? Have you confirmed that the timing advance is working properly? What about your cam timing?

Cam timing can be checked fairly easily without any tools (you'll need to take the timing cover off though). Ignition base and advance timing will require a timing light; use one that is in good shape, preferably with known good calibration.

[michael6593]

My uncle got his 1990 volvo to pass with no cats, and he basically gaurantees any car to pass using this method. Say you have 4 gallons of gas in you're car, go put in 4 gallons of E85 and go get it tested, and you will pass. After you pass you're emissions go back to the pump and fill you're car up all of the way. You basically want a 50/50 mix of e85 and gas. It might be better to run like 2 gallons of each, that way when you fill up it dilutes all of the E85.

[reklipz]

I don't know, I wouldn't recommend that. Not for any technical reason, but simply because emissions testing exists for a reason.

I'm curious to see what the OP says about his ignition timing, as well as what other members think could be suspect. I personally can't think of anything other than those two. Does burning oil or water have a significant impact on the emissions? Perhaps severely worn rings or a bad head gasket could be wreaking havoc?

I suppose you could perform a valve lash adjustment as well, but I doubt that is going to have much of an impact; it will be nothing compared to having the timing off.

If the P13 fuel/o2/... maps are not correct (for the H22 you have swapped), that could be a huge source of issue as well. Someone more knowledgeable will have to comment on that.

[JusAlil4Banger]

Would higher octane be causing more incomplete combustion = too rich bad numbers?

I dont think thats possible... the 91 octane should only help... i was even thinking about trying some 103 or whatever it is... Aviation fuel.

Have you checked the base ignition timing? Have you confirmed that the timing advance is working properly? What about your cam timing?Cam timing can be checked fairly easily without any tools (you'll need to take the timing cover off though). Ignition base and advance timing will require a timing light; use one that is in good shape, preferably with known good calibration.

Im not exactly sure about the timing... this is my first swap, and im still learning about everything. on the test results, It says "ignition timing, 15 BTDC", pass. so i think its good... on the most recent test i did, it says, "This Vehicle Failed The Emissions Timing Check, Due to Engine RPM being out of tolerance" but the guy had the timing light hooked to the #4 spark plug wire... i thought it was suppose to be connected to the #1 wire?? the guys at the last place were very incompetent... couldnt even find out where to pull + and - from, since my battery is in the trunk..


Ignition Timing, 15 BTDC... Ive never used a timing light yet, nor have i adjusted the timing from the distributor etc.

My uncle got his 1990 volvo to pass with no cats, and he basically gaurantees any car to pass using this method. Say you have 4 gallons of gas in you're car, go put in 4 gallons of E85 and go get it tested, and you will pass. After you pass you're emissions go back to the pump and fill you're car up all of the way. You basically want a 50/50 mix of e85 and gas. It might be better to run like 2 gallons of each, that way when you fill up it dilutes all of the E85.

Ive heard about this, and other ways of passing, but im scared to add that crap to my fuel! what is E85?? ethanol??

[dmar155]

Hey jusalil4banger, what two wires did u plug into the wrong spots? Before i swaped the head off my car with another A1 head i didnt have the code 43, and now i do..thanks.

[reklipz]

It sounds like they confirm your timing for you, so that's good. I assume that one of the four times you were able to catch at least one competent tester, so I would assume your ignition timing is good.

You should check the valve train timing too; that doesn't require any special tools.

If these tests cost money, is there any chance you can get refunded for some of the tests you know they fscked up on?

[alan lx]

Yea, ignition timing is huge. If you correct it and you get closer to passing, try retarding the timing a bunch. I got one to pass once by doing that

[reklipz]

Yea, ignition timing is huge. If you correct it and you get closer to passing, try retarding the timing a bunch. I got one to pass once by doing that

The OP mentioned that part of the test is confirming ignition timing, so unless the folks running the tests aren't doing their job correctly, then his base ignition timing is good. I don't know if they check timing advance, and I don't know how much of an impact that would have on the tests if it wasn't working properly (they test based upon speed, not engine RPM; silly IMO), but it might be worth checking out.

The next thing is checking cam/crank timing, as that is likely the next biggest factor assuming all of the rest of the things the OP has listed are indeed working properly.

I think the maps on the ECU might be worth looking into as well. Those could have a huge impact if they are incorrect or improperly tuned.

[wed3k]

sounds like a cat...all your numbers are inflated at the 15mph test

[alan lx]

The OP mentioned that part of the test is confirming ignition timing, so unless the folks running the tests aren't doing their job correctly, then his base ignition timing is good. I don't know if they check timing advance, and I don't know how much of an impact that would have on the tests if it wasn't working properly (they test based upon speed, not engine RPM; silly IMO), but it might be worth checking out.

The next thing is checking cam/crank timing, as that is likely the next biggest factor assuming all of the rest of the things the OP has listed are indeed working properly.

I think the maps on the ECU might be worth looking into as well. Those could have a huge impact if they are incorrect or improperly tuned.

He stated he wasn't sure and they possibly had the light on the wrong wire.

[JusAlil4Banger]

sounds like a cat...all your numbers are inflated at the 15mph test

I have a brand new cat though... less than 2k on it...

He stated he wasn't sure and they possibly had the light on the wrong wire.

Yes, he had the timing light hooked to the #4 SP wire. and that was the only test where the timing failed, but im pretty sure the timing is good. like i said, i set it myself, all marks were lining up perfect, it took me a while but i made sure i did it right... do you think the valves being out of adjustment could cause this?? ive been wanting to adjust them, but still never done a valve adjustment... it intimidates me a little bit.

[dmar155]

i thought valve adjustment was hard too, and i am not a major mechanic but it wasnt hard at all.

1)all it is just unplug the spark boots
2)take the four 10mm nuts off the valve cover
3)the 10mm bolt for the ground wire on the valve cover
4)take the valve cover off
5)remove the upper timing cover (two bolts,longer bolt is the right bolt) i think its a 12mm
6)set the #1 cylinder at tdc. i assume you know how. then adjust the valves using a 10 mm wrench and flat head screwdriver.
the firing order is 1,3,4,2.
its nothing major, i learned to do it on this car. just make sure the adjuster nuts are tight , i guess mine came loose. i heard of the nuts also coming off before.

[JusAlil4Banger]

i thought valve adjustment was hard too, and i am not a major mechanic but it wasnt hard at all.

1)all it is just unplug the spark boots
2)take the four 10mm nuts off the valve cover
3)the 10mm bolt for the ground wire on the valve cover
4)take the valve cover off
5)remove the upper timing cover (two bolts,longer bolt is the right bolt) i think its a 12mm
6)set the #1 cylinder at tdc. i assume you know how. then adjust the valves using a 10 mm wrench and flat head screwdriver.
the firing order is 1,3,4,2.
its nothing major, i learned to do it on this car. just make sure the adjuster nuts are tight , i guess mine came loose. i heard of the nuts also coming off before.

Thanks... the main reason i was holding back on doin it was cause i wanted to have a new valve cover gasket ready to replace the old one, and also im running H22a. i need to find the valve adjustment specs on that, and i need to locate my feeler gauges. i was also thinking about ordering the OEM red cover for the H22a typeS. i think it would look sweet with the arcadian green bay

but the question is, do you think that the valves being semi out of adjustment could cause this problem im having? seems like it could be a culprit for detonation?? although, i dont know too much about that either...