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Cooling system problems?

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    Cooling system problems?

    When I bought this car the guy I bought it from informed that the temp gauge on the cluster always reads hot, even right when you start the car, but I couldn't help but notice that on occasion (not everytime) when the car is in Park the idle starts to rev and go from 1100-1700 rpms and keep jumping between them? My brother thinks it might be the cooling system, opinions?

    #2
    There is an idle adjust screw that should help with the idle surging (jumping).

    So the needle on the temp gauge is ALWAYS on the H? Does it move at all? My first guess would be a faulty temp censor.
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      #3
      Sounds like the idle thing is a vacuum leak. Check out the 1 wire temp sender next to the ect sensor. Make sure the one wire isnt skinned at the connector... mine was all oily and tore up. Had to replace. That one wire temp sender is only for the read out in your cluster, so it shouldnt effect the idle. Also, if you have air bubbles in your cooling system, you'll get thar erratic idle. Just bleed the coolant feom the bleeder valve(on thermostat housing) intill no bubbles are coming out. Ive dealt with this a few times. No biggie.

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        #4
        Originally posted by A2CMiCB View Post
        When I bought this car the guy I bought it from informed that the temp gauge on the cluster always reads hot, even right when you start the car, but I couldn't help but notice that on occasion (not everytime) when the car is in Park the idle starts to rev and go from 1100-1700 rpms and keep jumping between them? My brother thinks it might be the cooling system, opinions?

        hey whats up. ur cooling temp guage sender is faulty. or coolant temp sensor. as for the idle, clean iacv, adjust fitv, idle screw and check for vac leaks with carb cleaner while car is running
        as for the fluctuating idle, it could be other things such as iacv but start with bleeding ur cooling system
        Last edited by paxman; 12-16-2012, 11:56 AM.

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          #5
          I cleaned the iacv and adjusted the the idle timing already and its only after you start driving it. I'll bleed the coolant system then see where im at, thanks for the suggestions and help!

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            #6
            IIRC if a thermostat is taking out and the hose is put back on without it, the temp gauge reads hot all the time. i dont know it the thermostat is the same as the D and B series motors but i remember i had a similar issue years back and it was a missing thermostat.
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              #7
              Originally posted by mugencivic4dr View Post
              IIRC if a thermostat is taking out and the hose is put back on without it, the temp gauge reads hot all the time. i dont know it the thermostat is the same as the D and B series motors but i remember i had a similar issue years back and it was a missing thermostat.
              a missing thermostat would show the needle on cold all the time(like the guage wasnt working). also shitty gas mileage i.e running rich all the time (vehicle never enters closed loop)

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                #8
                Originally posted by paxman View Post
                a missing thermostat would show the needle on cold all the time(like the guage wasnt working). also shitty gas mileage i.e running rich all the time (vehicle never enters closed loop)
                My gas mileage doesn't seem up to par, and the guy I bought it from said he was getting 30 mpg? My brother says these cars only get about 20-23 but I am running better with my new spark plugs and wires.
                I also haven't had anytime to work on my car and its cold as ( .Y .) but plan on doing a coolant flush a few days after christmas, hopefully without snow getting in my way.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by A2CMiCB View Post
                  My gas mileage doesn't seem up to par, and the guy I bought it from said he was getting 30 mpg? My brother says these cars only get about 20-23 but I am running better with my new spark plugs and wires.
                  I also haven't had anytime to work on my car and its cold as ( .Y .) but plan on doing a coolant flush a few days after christmas, hopefully without snow getting in my way.
                  from what ive gathered so far, it seems that your thermostat is stuck open. change it, so easy to change. just make sure the little pin on the thermostat is at 90 degrees and new gasket. of course the guy who sold u the car said he gets 30 mpg since he wants to sell the car. wonder if this engine has overheated? did u check for milkshake?, r u losing coolant?. if so u need a top end rebuild which includes changing head gasket and shaving head(dont shave over 0.002 cause your timing marks wont line up. you will only be able to see the 13 degree maek on flywheel). you can also check compression to verify that. anyway change your thermostat and coolant temp guage sender under distributor. if ur having running issues, let me know, i know these cars quite well.

                  make sure u bleed the cooling system by loosening the bleeder screw on top the thermostat housing. your car may be running a little rich cuz ur thermostat is stuck open and ur car never enters closed loop(getting feedback from all sensors)open loop(not getting feedback from sensors including o2 sensor). this should put a whole lot of arguments to rest.
                  Last edited by paxman; 12-26-2012, 10:47 AM.

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                    #10
                    Bleed my coolant the other day, (took the radiator cap off topped off with coolant and ran it) Seems like its running better, still get my strange idle problem where it revs up to ~1400 and back down but its only happened once so far since i bled my coolant, probably bleed it again, also my heat seems hotter. THANK GOD. Ordered a Valve Cover gasket set should be here tomorrow, hoping to do it saturday. (along with some other goodies)

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                      #11
                      On my quest to fix my idle, I came across an EricTheCarGuy video which is based on fixing the honda idle problems. He says the main reason is low coolant or air in the cooling system. It could definitely be connected, or one of the things the other members said. IACV, FITV, Vac leak. Mine was fixed by cleaning the IACV personally.

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                        #12
                        Hasnt been doing it after bleeding the coolant, cleaned my iacv right after i bought it, gunna bleed the coolant system again hopefully will subside.

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                          #13
                          When I changed my plenum (unhooked some coolant hoses), after put back together.. it rev'd uppppp, then down. Bleeding the system was the fix. Just the slightest bit of air will make the rpm's jump uppppppp, then down. When I say upppp, it goes up slowly to 4k.. stays for a second or 2, then hops back down. Vacuum leaks don't rev very high. Some will actually stay at a high rpm.

                          But yea, to bleed the system.. just unscrew the the nut/knob on the thermostat housing once it hits operating temperature. Once coolant squirts out, air's out.
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