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Wont start, tried everything...HELP!!!

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    #16
    Any ideas?

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      #17
      You may be getting fuel to the fuel rail, but if the injectors are clogged it won't send enough into the engine. Pull those and check to see if they are overly dirty.

      Also, I would just change the whole distributor on your car. It is a known problem for cb7s and hondas in general. Plus it's cheap and easy to fix. Lastly, even if it doesn't fix it, you will now have a spare distributor. Something good to have.

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        #18
        ^^^^ Good luck looking at fuel injectors to see if they are dirty. If they are, you have filtering issues.

        Recommending someone change out a distributor just because it is a known problem is nuts. Diagnose them problem. Do your diagnoses correctly and be sure you replace parts with quality parts and do it correctly. Yopu don't fix a car buy throwing money at it.

        to the OP, when you replaced the spark plugs, what brand did you buy? Did you gap them correctly? Also, in your original post you didn't mention replacing the fuel filter.

        Black Housing DIY 1991 Wagon Morimoto Retrofit
        JDM One-Piece Headlight Lens Repair

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          #19
          The spark plugs are about 1 1/2 years old, and they are just the generic Autolite plugs from Autozone. I gaped them at .035 when they were new, and haven't had any issues with them until now. A mechanic friend of mine told me that I should be using NGK plugs as they're whats recommended by Honda. I haven't replaced the fuel filter because I had decent fuel at the fuel rail check valve.

          I just cant understand how the car had been running so flawlessly, smooth idle, perfect power band, no stuttering or any performance issues what-so-ever, and then just out of no where nothing.
          Last edited by CBZED101; 12-23-2012, 07:40 PM.

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            #20
            It sounds like your thinking the right things. For it to run, there must be fuel, compression, spark and timing. If you crank it and spray a small amount of starting fluid, and does it hit? If it does not, I would do a compression test. Also, can you take a picture of your plugs and post here? That may be of some help.


            http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=178069

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              #21
              Its running again, just having problems when the gas is pressed, tomorrow hopefully I'll catch a ride to Autozone to pick up some NGK plugs and see how it does after that.

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                #22
                Check your fuel pressure regulator. Maybe your getting fuel but its not getting the pressure it needs. Pinch off the fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator back to the tank. Its just a rubber hose. If it runs fine then it is the regulator. I had the same thing happen to me. It would idle great but hit the gas and it bogged right down. It would also backfire out of the intake for me.
                1991 Honda Accord 2DR LX 180,000 Miles RIP

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                  #23
                  I just put in the new plugs and its running much better. Also, I noticed that before my old plugs looked fine, but in the short amount of time I've ran the engine over the last few days, they've turned jet black with soot. So it appears to be running extremely rich, so I bought a new Oxygen Sensor, in hopes that's been the problem the whole time.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by curtie94 View Post
                    Check your fuel pressure regulator. Maybe your getting fuel but its not getting the pressure it needs. Pinch off the fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator back to the tank. Its just a rubber hose. If it runs fine then it is the regulator. I had the same thing happen to me. It would idle great but hit the gas and it bogged right down. It would also backfire out of the intake for me.
                    Where is the location of the FPR? I was looking around for it earlier but, from the fuel filter to the fuel rail there isn't a silver diaphragm like I thought there would be?

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                      #25
                      The fpr is bolted on to the fuel rail... ill try to post a pic.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by JusAlil4Banger View Post
                        The fpr is bolted on to the fuel rail... ill try to post a pic.
                        Thanks man, is it the smaller, approx 2" in diameter silver cylinder with the small vacuum hose that's connected to the intake on the drivers side of the fuel rail?

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                          #27
                          Yes, thats it. it should also have a thicker black return line coming off the bottom.

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                            #28
                            Merry Christmas everybody! Today after hanging out with family I crawled under the car to remove the o2 sensor, pain in the ass, but after getting the old one out I realized my new o2 sensor has the wrong plug, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to see if this fixes my problems.

                            Anyways, I ran the car without the o2 sensor and it runs exactly the same as with the o2 sensor, except with the check engine light on, so to me this says that the o2 sensor wasn't relaying any information. Sound right?

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by CBZED101 View Post
                              Merry Christmas everybody! Today after hanging out with family I crawled under the car to remove the o2 sensor, pain in the ass, but after getting the old one out I realized my new o2 sensor has the wrong plug, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to see if this fixes my problems.

                              Anyways, I ran the car without the o2 sensor and it runs exactly the same as with the o2 sensor, except with the check engine light on, so to me this says that the o2 sensor wasn't relaying any information. Sound right?
                              If the problem was the car quits, no. If you only had poor steady throttle running and bad fuel milage, yes.

                              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                              You don't use a timing light to check mechanical timing. You use the light to check ignition timing. Mechanical timing can be checked by the timing marks on the cam gear and crank pulley..
                              On any 4 stroke engine that uses the camshaft to detect ignition timing (such as our cars) you can most certainly check cam timing with a timing light. The flywheel is keyed to the crank, and its marks should respond accordingly. You can't measure 100%, but if the light catches the marks anywhere in the "window" your mechanical timing is close enough to get the engine to run.

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                                #30
                                Well, I took the risk and attempted to drive to Autozone to obtain the correct o2 sensor early in the morning. Got there, and about 1/4 mile away from home it stalled at a busy intersection and refused to start back up again. Out of frustration I just had it towed to a local shop that I trust. Turns out it was the actual distributor going full retard. Still confused about why it never threw a code.

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