Wont start, tried everything...HELP!!!

[CBZED101]

Hey guys, I was taking a girl home the other morning and my car died suddenly at at an intersection. It didn't spit and sputter and die, just straight up shut off and refused to start back up. I've tried everything I can think of to repair the problem, without success. It cranks over, but never fires. I have spark, and fuel. I've re-soldered the main relay (working, hear relay "click" as the CEL turns off after key is turned to ignition), replaced the ICM, wires, plugs, and checked the ignition coil for proper resistance. The computer has no codes stored. The black / yellow wire leading to the ICM shows a proper voltage of 12 volts when the key is turned on. I simply cannot figure out my problem. Also, I receive no fire from the engine even when using starter fluid. The timing belt was replaced approximately 2 months ago, and I don't own a timing light to check the mechanical timing, but the distributor still rotates while cranking, so I don't believe that to be the problem.

I deliver pizza for a living, and not having a working car is literally driving me homeless. HELP!

Edit: Also, to clarify, its the stock F22a6, I'm not H22 swapped or anything cool like that.

[CBZED101]

The more and more I think about it, it almost seems as if it HAS to be a timing issue. I mean, if there's fuel and a powerful enough spark, a engine will run, or at least fire if the timing is right. What are the possibilities of a brand new timing belt skipping over multiple teeth to where an engine wont even run? The mechanic who installed the timing belt builds performance Honda motors, and I watched him do the entire job and know he did everything right. He set the tension tight to account for belt stretching as well.

[JusAlil4Banger]

Im not a master, but sounds like a grounding or timing issue for sure. Maybe your t-belt miraculously jumped enough teeth to completely throw it off, without breaking in the process? ? Sounds like a stumper. You can remove the upper timing cover and watch for timing mark on cam gear, then check the timing mark on the flywheel through the little timing hole to see where the timing is?

[Fleetw00d]

How did you verify spark? A timing light might be a good investment, it will indicate that there is actually current in the wire, but also verify timing. Do you know that fuel is actually getting to the engine (or just that your relay seems to be working)? Do you have a fuel pressure gage (connects to a port on the driver end of the fuel rail)?

[deevergote]

You don't use a timing light to check mechanical timing. You use the light to check ignition timing. Mechanical timing can be checked by the timing marks on the cam gear and crank pulley. Assuming you understood the process of installing the timing belt properly (which I assume you did, since it ran), then you should understand how to check these things. If you didn't tension the belt properly, then it's entirely possible that it skipped a tooth.

Also, clean your battery terminals and wires. I had a similar issue where corrosion on my battery cables kept the car from starting. I could push-start it, but it wouldn't start with the key. I had fuel, I had spark... but not enough to start it. Cleaned the cables, used a new battery, and boom... problem solved.

[Fleetw00d]

You're correct, stupid me. I was thinking more along the lines that if with a timing light he is nowhere near the timing marks, that would be a potential indication of a physcial timing issue without having to take anything else apart. I guess removing the upper timing cover isn't that big a deal.

X2 on checking grounds and cable connections. The previous owner of my EX sedan chased a starting problem with a new battery and alternator; turned out to be a bad negative cable ground to the transmission housing.

[HardInThePaint]

Do your cluster lights are light up immediately when the engine stalls or do the shut all the way off as well?

IDK, it might be your ignition switch... I suppose its worth replacing since you've replaced everything else.

[charles.scarlet]

Dude chesk ur ecu fuse. is might have went out. Trust me i went replacing everything before and sure as shit it waS a fuse

[Stoner51]

This just happened to me today. Installed new head, cam, Intake ECU and timing belt and water pump.
Car started after a couple tries. Ran fine then boom, Just died. A quick check taking off plug wire no spark. Remove distributor cap. Jump ignitor with a wire from the block no spark. Test probe to the positive on the coil. And it lights. Let the car cool down some and now we get spark. Install everything back and it now runs fine.
I'm Ordering a new distributor as I type.. You could replace the internals but I've done that once. The distributor has a Lifetime warranty so. No more worries.
The other thing Is it could be the ignition switch.

steve

[djcaz_aom]

There is a member in your area with really good knowledge and troubleshooting skills. If I had to guess it would be timing or compression related. A compression test would take care of that.

Also, take off the top timing belt cover and check your timing. Line up the timing marks at the fly wheel and then check at the camshaft sprocket.

If you want Teddy's number, PM me.

[CBZED101]

I don't own a fuel pressure gauge, but I tested that the fuel filter / pump were both in working order by removing the screw at the end of the fuel rail and turning the ignition on shortly, got a thick stream about 4-5" up. I tested spark by holding one of the wires near the valve cover and it had a nice blue spark. I'll yank the valve cover and upper timing cover when its light out later and check the mechanical timing.

[CBZED101]

OK, I was out messing around with it again, I removed the plugs and everything so I could turn the engine over by hand to align the timing marks to check the timing. For some reason I decided to put the plugs back in and try it again, and to my surprise it started and idled. I revved it up a bit and everything seemed OK, so I decided to test drive it around my apartment parking lot. I got maybe 1000 feet and it died again. I started it back up and it spit and sputtered until it ran, and then again, idled fine. I drove it back to in front of my apartment and once again, it died. I started it back up and it idled, and when I would slightly push on the gas it'd rev up, but if I give it more than say, 1/4th throttle, it starts sputtering and will slowly die. Any ideas? I'm guessing fuel pump.

[wildBill83]

Either it's not getting enough fuel or too much or not enough air.

[CBZED101]

I found it odd that it wouldn't start with starting fluid as well back when I was troubleshooting the problem. So, that to me sounds like it's too much fuel...what would cause a problem like that?

[CBZED101]

Also, I forgot to mention, before I put the plugs back in and it started, I slightly closed the gap on the plugs because I noticed they were slightly more open than normal, I didn't have a gap tester. Anyways, Now that the car has cooled down, I went out and tried to start it and it started, but is only running on 1 cylinder now. I'm so confused. >.<