F22B1 swap on CB7 92 Accord

[Arsonist911]

Hey Darkcloud, I came accross this bit of info and now I ask you why would the POH be a better choice than the POA ??

37820-P0H-L01 is for a 96-97 EX F22B1 Vtec Obd2 Manual
37820-P0A-L01 is for a 94-95 EX F22B1 Vtec Obd1 Manual

[djcaz_aom]

Okay, I'll bite.



- You will need the F22A power steering pump bracket. Only two holes will match. Like this:



- You also need the throttle bracket from an F22A. Get rid of those zip ties. Look at pic above.



- The Egr isn't hooked up to vacuum black box. I believe hose #16.

- You should be using the POA ecu which is OBD1. You will have to swap pins A6 with A11 on the ECU harness. Also wire in the following:

- Vtec solenoid: Pin A4
- Vtec pressure switch: Pin D6

See here how to do it:

VTEC Wiring

Hope that helps. If you have any other questions, let me know. I did this swap years ago and had very few problems with the swap.

[Arsonist911]

Thank you to all for your input. Djcaz thanks for the pics, I'm more of a visual kinda person, you gave me alot to use. I'm new to this and I got a 91 Accord Wagon which is parked in the garage after I took out the F22A1 when it went to hell and I dropped a F22A4 in it but could never get it to idle corectly, checked vaccum lines, cleaned the IACV and seafoam and nothing last thing it did was break the starter from the housing just snapped. Then came across the 92 Accord for $300 and jumped on it. But with no motor, so the F22B1 was a quick find and the job has been a pain I wasnt ready for. I'll jump on the ECU and and fix somethings mentioned here and hopefully ask for help if I get stuck along the way... Thank you
http://pbckt.com/pj.RSPWmD
The Accord
http://pbckt.com/pj.RSPvFw
The Wagon

[djcaz_aom]

No problem.

[Arsonist911]

Ok, I adjusted the kick down cable, it redlines where it should now, the car was shifting at 4,500 rpm but redlined at 5,000 rpm... Once adjusted it still shifts at 4500 but red lines at 6,xxx something... But it still refuses to shift unless I release the gas pedal. And it shifts hard as hell. No flashing lights still... But I'm driving it with the f22a ecu, still havent found the POA or POH... Rough idle, when at red lights rpms at 700 but the steering wheel shakes rough, egr isnt hooked up, the mech said he by passed it!! Is it possible?

[Darkcloud]

I know this is a late reply, I actually didnt know the POH was an manual. I really dont mess with autos at all.

But glad to find you got it figured out

[Arsonist911]

Well, I adjusted the kick down cable, but the tranny still shifts way late@ 4500 rpm... And without the proper ECU and Vtec hooked up the car has no balls at high RPMs, I've never had a car that would refuse to shift unless I released the gas, or let it rev up to 4500 rpm in order to shift. I've read the EGR cases rough Idle and shake, but I just found where he is using the #16 hose from the vacuum box to something else, leaving the EGR unhooked... I'm so confused with what the hell he did under that hood. But at least I got my power steering back....

[djcaz_aom]

Let's start this off by getting all your vacuum connections correct.

This is how your accord should be hooked up from factory:




This is how the F22B1 is hooked up in a 94 Accord:



Hose numbers coming from the black box on the firewall:

3 - Purge Cut-Off Solenoid Valve (To Tank)
16 - EGR Control Solenoid Valve (From EGR)
20 - Purge Cut-Off Solenoid Valve (From Manifold)
21 - MAP Sensor (From Throttle Body)
24 - CVC Valve (From Manifold)

What yours should look like:



My next question is which MAP sensor are you using? Is the one on throttle body hooked up? If not, let me know.

[Arsonist911]

[IMG][/IMG]

Here is some pics of vacuum lines and you can see how some are joined with Y connectors and shit....

[Arsonist911]

[IMG][/IMG]

What is this? #16 is hooked to this

[IMG][/IMG]

You can see there's something unplugged under the throttle , can't find what hooks up there

[IMG][/IMG]

Here you can see some vacuum lines are crossed it seems like... Ever seen something like this?

[IMG][/IMG]

Overall look of the engine bay

[HondaMagic]

Ok if it will help I'm gonna take some pics and reroute and clean mine to show you the one thing that helped me was takin the map out of the black box your gonna have 2 to 3 vac lines not connected to anything give me a bit gonna go look at

[Arsonist911]

Ok, so I see vac line 21 to the cruise control actuator based on the diagram.

[HondaMagic]

Ok if it will help I'm gonna take some pics and reroute and clean mine to show you the one thing that helped me was takin the map out of the black box your gonna have 2 to 3 vac lines not connected to anything give me a bit gonna go look at

Can't post pics pm me I'll email email to you today I bypassed 3 and my iac is bad but I still get decent idle at temp that's another thing is it rough at start or at cold let me know I'll try and help I went through same thing with mine on the f22b1 diagram the line that goes to intake in pic you can run it strait to the map and idle won't drop cause it's sucking from that trans vac on the back right of the intake

[djcaz_aom]

Ok, so I see vac line 21 to the cruise control actuator based on the diagram.

Vacuum 21 is the map sensor. It goes connected to the top of the throttle body.

As you can see in this picture:



What I did was plumb in a barbed connector. In the pic you posted, it is plugged up. I suggest you redo all the vacuum hoses and get that MAP sensor hooked up properly.

Then we will move onto other issues with your install.

Here is a picture showing the barded connector: