Or you can use an f block with your h22 head that's wat I'm doing great for boost low compression with iron sleeves = win
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
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blown H22 block. hole in itso
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Here we go........
02 Crv
02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.
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Originally posted by 90exaccord. View PostOr you can use an f block with your h22 head that's wat I'm doing great for boost low compression with iron sleeves = win
Click for my Member's Ride Thread
Originally posted by Stephen Fry'It's now very common to hear people say, "I'm rather offended by that", as if that gives them certain rights. It's no more than a whine. It has no meaning, it has no purpose, it has no reason to be respected as a phrase. "I'm offended by that." Well, so fucking what?' —Stephen Fry
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostH head + F block = fail.Last edited by 90exaccord.; 11-27-2012, 01:28 AM.
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Why would you need to upgrade rod or main bearings? hondas OE has withstood power.
Not going to get into it, read on.
02 Crv
02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.
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Yeah... and now you need 87mm pistons... and you'll have stock iron sleeves that are weak as hell because you bored them 2mm over. The block is already open deck... so you're just asking for a cracked sleeve. You'll need to resleeve for any real reliability... and in that case, it's just better to run a sleeved H22 block with forged internals where everything matches up 100% Your easy way just turned into the hard way.
I'm not saying anything more. Hopefully this guy does his own research, and recognizes foolish talk when he sees it.
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Originally posted by 90exaccord. View PostYeah deeve.. I've heard this a million times lol all you to do is bore to 87mm upgrade rod bearings n main bearings balance/micro polish crank maybe get some reputable rods n some pistons to accomidate for the new bore size n bam reliability with tons of torque to tear them lil b n k series a new one lol btw I'm from san jose ca also..
Engine building is not something you want to half-ass.
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Originally posted by 90exaccord. View PostYeah deeve.. I've heard this a million times lol all you to do is bore to 87mm upgrade rod bearings n main bearings balance/micro polish crank maybe get some reputable rods n some pistons to accomidate for the new bore size n bam reliability with tons of torque to tear them lil b n k series a new one lol btw I'm from san jose ca also..
Click for my Member's Ride Thread
Originally posted by Stephen Fry'It's now very common to hear people say, "I'm rather offended by that", as if that gives them certain rights. It's no more than a whine. It has no meaning, it has no purpose, it has no reason to be respected as a phrase. "I'm offended by that." Well, so fucking what?' —Stephen Fry
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Originally posted by Accrdwgnguy View PostUntil you crack a sleeve because you bored the block too much.
Engine building is not something you want to half-ass.
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Originally posted by 90exaccord. View PostTrue but then again f series are dime a dozen? N if you do the labor yourself how much are you really loosing? Just the block... Or you can always buy an f20b n wen it blows get an f 22/3 block n slap the f20b head on it... It has same combustion chamber size as the cylinder bore of the f series if I'm not mistaken idk I'm just trying to help a lil because for 1 h blocks are hard to find here in the bay area in working order n 2 the are pricey
Youre basically saying he's just going to waste money blow the motor to waste money again, then blow money on a frank build which wont last long only 2 or 3 memebers made last more then a year I believe, which is more of a pain.
H22's can be found all day anywhere for less then 1g. Do some more digging, if it dont work opening it up and see whats wrong its not hard to do.
Stop trolling or give actual information that will help.
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Originally posted by 90exaccord. View PostTrue but then again f series are dime a dozen? N if you do the labor yourself how much are you really loosing? Just the block... Or you can always buy an f20b n wen it blows get an f 22/3 block n slap the f20b head on it... It has same combustion chamber size as the cylinder bore of the f series if I'm not mistaken idk I'm just trying to help a lil because for 1 h blocks are hard to find here in the bay area in working order n 2 the are pricey
I should've stayed out of this conversation when I said I would earlier... This is a clear example of how 10 people say the RIGHT thing, but the OP takes more interest in the one person that presents an idiotic halfassed way of doing things.
Dynamic93-408, his way is not going to be cheaper than doing it the right way. Not in the long run. And it's going to be a hell of a lot more work. Do what you want, but expect to blow that engine up.
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Originally posted by Dynamic93-408 View PostIll probl just have fun keeping my self busy swaping blocks jeje. I might just hook up nitus till the fing car blows up. LolLast edited by 90exaccord.; 11-27-2012, 07:20 PM.
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