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turbo f23 block wit f22a head won't crossover into boost

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    turbo f23 block wit f22a head won't crossover into boost

    Ok so finally I get the cb7 up and running again with f23a bottem end and full ported an s polished f22a head I currently have a Garrett g25 turbo on it and am having problems getting it to cross over into boost I have to try with around 15% throttle Idk if it's the chip kit in my ecu but it seems to be running in some kind if limp mode it drives fine in vacuum but when it goes to cross into boost I get nothing but hesitation and backfiring until I left off throttle but when I tried checking codes for ecu the check engine light just stayed on it wouldn't flash at all or even go off so I scanned craigslist found a chipped p06 met up with the guy popped my chip in his ecu tried start the car it would come n but die immediately and this ecu also would not let me retrieve any codes..Idk what to do should I buy the p06 and have asomeone tune me another base map and cross my fingers or just go snatch a fmu and throw my stock ecu and injectors back in and call it a day any help would be greatly appreciated

    #2
    That is going to require some tuning on a dyno, a generic chip is not going to cut it. Also how are your vacuum lines setup?

    Comment


      #3
      Please use punctuation in your sentences. You want others to help you diagnose your problem so you need to help us read it. Typing on your phone is not an excuse either. I've typed up some of my longer posts on this forum from my phone.

      Stay very far away from FMUs. They are unpredictable and can lead your newly built engine being a porous paperweight.

      Who tuned your ECU initially? Was it tuned at all or just some basemap you found online? I think that's where your problem is but did you delete any sensors when reinstalling the engine?

      Can you not just run it on a PT6 for now to see if the codes present will read there?
      My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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        #4
        Ok sorry about my punctuation, but I have a vacuume from both bov and wastegate going to intake manifold. And as far as my stock ecu my retarded self forgot it was in my trunk but no luck with it either. although the check engine light did go off after 5 sec which it hasn't with either ecu I've tried but once jumper is hooked up to retrieve codes the check engine light just stays on. And I started with a phearable base map and when I went to do a street tune the guy said he didn't know Wat was going on, he said the car is either out of timing my Wastegate was opening fully as soon as I hit boost or my chip kit or ecu were suspected bad, which is why I tried the other chipped ecu...but I guess for the time being im gonna try to run my stock injectors with stock computer...I gotta get these 450cc injectors off her quick

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          #5
          Timing! That's what I forgot. I was finishing up my previous post thinking that there was something I thought about but couldn't remember when typing. Check both ignition and camshaft timing. Regardless of modifications done those are critical to getting your engine running right.
          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

          Comment


            #6
            I'd suggests timing aswell, if you have a light use it if not get one. Or it could just be the lack of a proper tune all together.

            02 Crv
            02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
            92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
            Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.

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              #7
              Im pretty sure timing is on but it doesn't hurt to check a couple more times

              Comment


                #8
                Ok so I just got the ecu to throw some codes which then gave me, 3 which is map sensor I believe and also 45 which is fuel system too lean or rich does anyone know the ohm readouts on the map while I can check it at work?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Most likely the MAP is a vacuum leak.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    MAP was my first thought, since the whole thing seemed to freak out as soon as you hit boost.

                    However, did you make an effort to get this engine running properly without the turbo installed? If not... I suggest you remove the turbo and work out the kinks in that hybrid engine you built. That's a hell of a lot of custom stuff to tune. I'd hate to see you put a piston into that P&P'd head because you tried to tackle it all at once.

                    Also, this is probably unrelated to your problem, but I feel I should ask anyway. When you had the head modified, did you have the combustion chamber diameter increased to match the F23A's 86mm bore? If not, you're going to have an overlap of .5mm all around the junction between the block and head... that sharp lip can be a source of detonation, which will easily be instant boom with a poorly tuned turbo system (or even a tuning job in progress.) Detonation right at the junction of the head and block could blow out your head gasket quite quickly... and that's probably the best case scenario!






                    Comment


                      #11
                      *I say map as well or maybe lose pin/connection.

                      Try to trace down the vacuum leak with a gauge.

                      Im sending PM about something off topic/slightly on topic.
                      Last edited by 8ball; 10-24-2012, 08:06 PM. Reason: PM

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                        #12
                        This setup is just temporary to get me to and from work, I have a f22 block bored to 89mm that this set up was actually ment to be on but i didn't realize how expensive or hard it would be to find a rod and piston combo for it. so I picked up this f23 to get to and from work till I can afford or find a rod that's narrow enough to fit in f23 piston but also fits f22 crank

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Bisimoto has F22A internals at a reasonable price.
                          Did you resleeve that F22A block that you bored to 89mm? If not, you're going to break a sleeve the minute you boost that sucker...






                          Comment


                            #14
                            Where the f*#k did I get 89mm smh..I meant 86mm and yea bisi has been the only place I can find anything, they have a longer f22 rod with shorter piston at 86mm bore but it's like 989$ That's more then I bought the car for

                            Comment


                              #15
                              F22A rods are not going to help you. You either need to get aftermarket F23A rods for that crankshaft (Crower makes them but they're expensive ~$750) or K20A rods in a custom length. If you were to try and use standard length K20A rods then using a 30mm CH piston would put you in the hole 2mm. I suppose it would allow for a custom piston in a 32mm CH which could really take some boost but I think that's unnecessary. You also have a plethora of B-series rods that you can use also. Again, they will need to be in longer-than-factory lengths to be compatible with your build.

                              This is actually somewhat relevant, dimensionally, to a build I'll be doing over the holidays. Mine will be for an N/A application so it may not help you. However, I've done quite a bit of research and may be able to give you some options that are out there.
                              My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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