So I just got done putting in a new fuel pump, fuel filter and new lines and when I went to take the car out for a drive to make sure it was all good to go, I noticed my brake pedal sunk to the floor. After pumping it again after that it was fine. I put it back on the rack and made sure to triple check that I didn't some how mess up one of the brake lines and didn't notice anything wrong. I drove home and on the way home (which thankfully is only 3 minutes away and all country roads) my pedal decided to sink down again, now I obviously don't want to drive it anywhere until i figure this out. I'm thinking this might be the master cylinder on its way out because I've replaced all the brakes and made sure to bleed them, but when the cars off I don't lose pressure at all. I'm just curious if there is anything I'm missing and if not what are some pointers for putting a new master cylinder in, I've read the chilton manual on what to do but any other tips would be awesome.
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Brake pedal likes to go soft randomly?
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alright i figured as much, luckily the new master cylinder isnt going to kill my wallet like the new fuel pump lines and all that fun stuff. bench bleeding is just running lines from the cylinder back into the resivior right?1991 Accord LX Coupe H22 Swap (Sold)
1993 Accord EX Sedan (Curent Project)
2003 Civic SI Hatch (Sold)
2003 Pontiac Grand Am ("In a Better Place")
2004 GMC Envoy (The Daily that won't die) Currently at 380k shooting for 400k
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If the axle bearings are worn, wheel will wobble as rotate. This wobble will push pads apart. With pads pushed apart and you are to brake, it will require extra travel of brake pedal to take up that much of space. If you pump the pedal the second time, that much extra travel is not needed since the first application of brake did that job.
I am not sure how Accords' axle bearings are set up. But I had similar situation like above on other form of transportation I was working on many years ago. At that time, other techs and the boss (back then) didn't understand what was going on and I got in the heated discussion which ended in 4 letter words, from my own boss!!
I quit that place and opened up my own shop after that,,,,,A&P-IA
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostThe caliper clamps to the rotor, and the caliper is fixed. I don't see how a bearing would affect brake travel at all.
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Sounds like air in the lines, or MC failure ... do you have ABS? Have you also bled it properly and checked its operation? My 93 has two reserviors to bleed as well as extra points introduce air into the lines if they have failing caps or seals. How old is the fluid? Be sure to never use an open bottle of DOT4 fluid and change your fluid every 3 months (more in humid areas), it collects water from the point the bottle is open and steam or water in your lines can cause this issue as well.1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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i can almost guarantee it is a hydraulic problem not a bearing problem
the experience i have had with wheel bearings being bad is that, the rotor would move slightly and rub against the caliper bracket it never affected brake pedal feel though. it would vibrate slightly when braking but not terribly, nothing to affect pedal pressure.
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I, too, think the OP's issue is due to faulty brake master cylinder.
The statement of affect of loose/worn bearing to brake pedal travel is real for all forms of transportation if you ask me. It is more evident on certain brake system than the other. On cars, one master cylinder is working on four slave cylinders. You may not be able to detect this happening just by the feel of pedal. But, it does not mean it is not happening.A&P-IA
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I'm sure there is no air in the lines because i have bled them more than enough to get any air out from when i redid the brakes all around. I picked up a master cylinder at work today so I'm just waiting for some time to get it bled and put it in and then once again bleed the brakes all around. At this rate i should have some amazing stopping power by the time im done haha aside from the booster and new lines everythings going to be brand new1991 Accord LX Coupe H22 Swap (Sold)
1993 Accord EX Sedan (Curent Project)
2003 Civic SI Hatch (Sold)
2003 Pontiac Grand Am ("In a Better Place")
2004 GMC Envoy (The Daily that won't die) Currently at 380k shooting for 400k
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Do you have ABS and have you verified it is working correctly? I asked earlier and never heard back.Last edited by wildBill83; 08-05-2012, 06:58 AM.1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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