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torque converter wont lock up

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    #1

    torque converter wont lock up

    i jus bought another 93 lx cb7 it has 174,xxx on it and runs great and is in great condition. only problem with the car is that u have to let off the gas to get it to shift to third all other gears fine and the converter wont lock up, runnin 3100 rpms at 69-71 mph. i cant get the tcu to throw codes and have checked the fluid llvl its fine and fluid appears to be in good condition. i was thinkin of checing the temp censor and tps first then pull the solinoids and clean and check any other ideas or does anyone know what this may be. i have read several threads and jus dont know what to try first, my friend says the tcu doesnt know where the throtles at so it wont shift right, or the trans cable is out of spec...which should i try first? i jus want it to lockup on the highway so i can get better mpgs thanks..
    Tags: None
    #2
    This might help you. I could write it all up again but it would take a while.

    Read what i posted. You should find everything you need to know there.
    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=191171
    Last edited by H311RA151N; 08-01-2012, 03:48 PM.




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      #3
      ok pulled all censors to the tranny cleaned them had a tad of metal on the end, also pulled soliniods and cleaned cheaked them they were ok. goin to have the tranny flushed this weekend. it shifts fine now other then still wont lock up the torque converter. also pulled thermostat its in shitty condition i think its stuck open a tad cause even when car is cold coolant always flows out the neck and the fans took like twenty mins to come on will i had it parked and started today and its hot here in ky. could this be part of the issue? the temp gage never gets higher thee pointing straight at d3 and i think i remember my 5spd would stay around pointing even with the fuel tanks halfway mark when up to temp not sure tho. and could u possibly tell me what shelling the torque converter is please and thank u.

      Comment

        #4
        and what rpms should i be running at highway speeds of 70mph?

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by 6KDropout View Post
          ok pulled all censors to the tranny cleaned them had a tad of metal on the end, also pulled soliniods and cleaned cheaked them they were ok. goin to have the tranny flushed this weekend. it shifts fine now other then still wont lock up the torque converter. also pulled thermostat its in shitty condition i think its stuck open a tad cause even when car is cold coolant always flows out the neck and the fans took like twenty mins to come on will i had it parked and started today and its hot here in ky. could this be part of the issue? the temp gage never gets higher thee pointing straight at d3 and i think i remember my 5spd would stay around pointing even with the fuel tanks halfway mark when up to temp not sure tho. and could u possibly tell me what shelling the torque converter is please and thank u.
          "Shelling" the torque converter is when part of the insides break and send little metal shaving thru the transmission.

          Replace the thermostat and then post up if it changes or stays the same. Make sure and use an OE temp one. A bad thermostat could be your problem.
          Last edited by H311RA151N; 08-03-2012, 03:00 AM.




          Comment

            #6
            Is your d4 light flashing? You say you can't get codes but are there even any codes to be given.

            And 3000rpm is exactly 70mph in an automatic cb7.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by 6KDropout View Post
              and what rpms should i be running at highway speeds of 70mph?
              I dont remember... Below 3500. I want to say my Auto runs 2600-2800 at 55mph. When i lost the torque converter last year it would run over 3000 at 55.

              When in doubt count the gears. You should feel it 5 times. The 5th time is torque converter lock up.

              Mine wont lock up early of a morning until im thru town and on this one hill. Thats how long it takes the car to warm up to normal operating temp. About 1.25 miles from my house and i let it idle down before i leave (about 45 seconds.) So you will have to give it time to warm up before itll lock the torque converter up.




              Comment

                #8
                Have you checked the transmission fluid pressure out near the shift solenoids? Also don't flush your transmission, drain and fill only... Flushing causes more problems than you want to deal with on a high mileage cb7.
                Last edited by wildBill83; 08-04-2012, 05:36 PM.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by wildBill83 View Post
                  Have you checked the transmission fluid pressure out near the shift solenoids? Also don't flush your transmission, drain and fill only... Flushing causes more problems than you want to deal with on a high mileage vehicle.
                  You have to have a shop flush it. You cant flush it yourself. Im a transmission tech part time and I have been for for about a year. Flushing wont hurt a high mileage Honda trans. Not flushing it when it needs it will. Using Honda ATF itll cost about $200 to have it flushed using a machine.

                  And you cant drain all the fluid from the trans if you dont. The torque converter holds over half the fluid. The only way around this is to drain it until it quits, fill it, drive it a week. Then do it again. Then again. After the third time you should have mostly all new fluid.

                  EDIT: Not only that but if you check the fluid pressure at the shift solenoids and its not right that relates to a problem inside the trans anyways. So you still end up pulling the trans.
                  Last edited by H311RA151N; 04-24-2015, 12:28 AM.




                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by SWMO View Post
                    You have to have a shop flush it. You cant flush it yourself. Im a transmission tech and I have been for four years. Flushing wont hurt a high mileage Honda trans. Not flushing it when it needs it will. Using Honda ATF itll cost about $200 to have it flushed using a machine.

                    And you cant drain all the fluid from the trans if you dont. The torque converter holds over half the fluid. The only way around this is to drain it until it quits, fill it, drive it a week. Then do it again. Then again. After the third time you should have mostly all new fluid.

                    EDIT: Not only that but if you check the fluid pressure at the shift solenoids and its not right that relates to a problem inside the trans anyways. So you still end up pulling the trans.
                    Flushing at a tranny shop is different than at quick lube where they use that detergent and power flush it, had my 93 integra transmission get destroyed like that. You are right about using the right Honda ATF, most quick lubes are out to do the cheap route though. If you have it flushed do it at a transmission shop, not a lube shop. Sorry for not clarifying.

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