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Suspension - stability issue

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    #1

    Suspension - stability issue

    I have an issue with my 92 accord where when at higher speeds and uneven surfaces my car will pretty much wobble like I'm turning the steering wheel left and right real quick as if I'm warming my tires for a road race.

    The only time this happens is on the highway and I'm switching lanes and the lanes are different levels somewhat. I'll switch lanes and after switching lanes the car will wobble. When this first happened i tried to repeat the issue at lower speeds but my car feels just fine. I'm currently not driving the car to work because I'm not brave enough to try to ruin my car.

    The parts of my suspension i have not replaced are the lower ball joints and front sway bar bushings. I'm going to work on my car this weekend but i was just trying to see if i could get an idea as to what may be going bad. Oh i also don't switch lanes fast on the highway. The speed is about 75-80mph when this happened.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Well, bad front stabalizer bar bushings don't help. So new ones can decrease body roll. Maybe an alignment, but then it would wobble all the time and not just when changing lanes.
    <-- MRT

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      #3
      So does that mean everything else in your front end has been changed? Tie rods, radius rod bushings, upper control arms (bushings and ball joint), shocks, shock bushings, tires...

      A wobble like that makes me think either your shocks are shot, or your tie rods are about done. Damaged tires could have that effect as well.

      If your lower ball joint boots are ripped, replace them ASAP, before you even drive the car again. If a ball joint fails, bad bad things happen.






      Comment

        #4
        alignment could be off too.
        Originally posted by deevergote
        These cars will never be the best at anything, but they're pretty damn good at everything.

        92ex CB7<-SOLD 93ex CB9shiftingshift73C10

        Comment

          #5
          I guess about 4 years ago i replaced the Shocks and springs with some Tokico blues and Tein springs.

          Less than six months ago i've changed: a full energy suspension front bushing set, new upper control arms with bushings and joint, Wheel bearings, CV shafts, tie rod ends. Links and bushings. I didnt replace the sway bar bushings since there wasn't any sign of cracking. I want to replace the lower ball joints but they look like they were replaced before and i didn't notice a crack on the boots.

          I drove my car again and found a couple uneven roads and if the level of the right side of the road is uneven from the left side and i pass over it my car will rock right to left. If i take a turn and i force the car to compress to one side or the other there is no rocking motion. I was hoping it wasnt my shocks but they are the oldest part of my suspension.

          My alignment was also done less than 6 months and the toe, camber and caster were all within an acceptable range. My car doesnt pull on flat pavement. Oh my tires have about 12k miles on them and they are are at 32 psi in the morning before it heats up.


          That was a great point about the tires having damage, I don't see anything on the outside of the tires but i'll rotate them and see if the inside has any damage.
          Last edited by RxAccord; 08-01-2012, 12:33 AM.

          Comment

            #6
            What Tein springs did you use? If the drop was lower than 1", and the spring rate greater than 15% over stock, those shocks might be shot. They're not intended to be used on anything more extreme than that. They could very well be blown by now.

            I would invest in some Koni STR.T shocks at the very least. If you're lowered 2" or so, I'd go for Koni Yellows.




            And yeah, instability in a tire could even be internal. I've seen tires with belts that shifted inside due to a manufacturing flaw. Those can be scary, because that shifted belt can cause an unexpected blowout. It's not common, but it happens.






            Comment

              #7
              Yeah, They are the H.Tech i believe. 1.5 front lowering and .8 rear. It was my first upgrade to the car and i think i went off the advice of a friend. I thought it was within range of the shock tolerance.

              Comment

                #8
                Yeah, a lot of people think those shocks can withstand a drop like that. It's mild, but they're really not made for it. It's become common knowledge on here only a few years ago, even. There are a lot of members that have improperly matched setups due to a lack of available information.

                So yeah, 4 years with springs that are too much for those shocks, it's very likely that's your problem. Still inspect other things to be sure, but from what you've said, I'm strongly leaning toward the shocks.






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                  #9
                  Found it. It seems that within a couple days my upper ball joint went south. I went with a dorman model that gave me a 1yr warrant but i think i'm going back to OEM. Anyone have some idea of what to use?



                  I was thinking about getting some Moog upper ball joints but all i can find are the the adjustable kind. I thought those would cause my control arm hit the top of the wheel well.

                  It's either that or $129 each for OEM honda arms. I like the OEM honda option but man spending $260 stinks... I'm sure less headaches and accidents so probably worth it.

                  Oh if anyone was wondering - This is wear from Nov 2011 - to Aug 2012.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    OEM or Moog. Those are the only ones I'd trust.
                    Moog adjustables will only cause the control arms to hit if you correct your camber to 0 with a lowered stance. You can run some negative camber (-1 degree) and avoid hitting.
                    Honestly though, if you're going adjustable, I'd go with SPC. They make a low-profile adjustable that should work just fine. Also not cheap, but you're not just getting new ball joints, but also camber correction. Think of it as a repair and an upgrade.






                    Comment

                      #11
                      I decided to go with the SPC. I was thinking that overall it would give me the best investment since it gives me the option of going lower if ever i decide to. Thanks for all the help and advice y'all.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        I'm glad I found this thread, as I am having a similar problem. I have a 93 lx, and less than 2 years ago, I purchased and had installed the TAS Suspension Restoration kit (front uca w/bj, lower ball joints, rear uca w/ball joint), right side wheel bearing, and replaced the factory cracked sway bar bushings over the weekend with Energy Suspension units. Also had the steering rack/inner tie rods replaced 6 months ago, the outers with the suspension resto kit. The front right tire has some wear on the inside (can't get a matching tire until the weekend lol). The only thing that hasn't been replaced are the front struts. Also got an alignment over the weekend. Car drives decently at lower speeds, but at around 60-70 on the interstate, it develops a pretty wicked shimmy, so I am avoiding interstate driving for now. Longshot, I know, but anyone have an idea what my issues stem from?

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by RxAccord View Post
                          Found it. It seems that within a couple days my upper ball joint went south. I went with a dorman model that gave me a 1yr warrant but i think i'm going back to OEM. Anyone have some idea of what to use?



                          I was thinking about getting some Moog upper ball joints but all i can find are the the adjustable kind. I thought those would cause my control arm hit the top of the wheel well.

                          It's either that or $129 each for OEM honda arms. I like the OEM honda option but man spending $260 stinks... I'm sure less headaches and accidents so probably worth it.

                          Oh if anyone was wondering - This is wear from Nov 2011 - to Aug 2012.
                          Thank God I saw this! Great post! I saw this pic and found that all of my upper ball joints were shot like this! Time to build up those Autozone points now...

                          "There are only two types of people in this world... Those who run & win, and those who sit at the sidelines & watch the winners pass them by."

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                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by RxAccord View Post
                            I decided to go with the SPC. I was thinking that overall it would give me the best investment since it gives me the option of going lower if ever i decide to. Thanks for all the help and advice y'all.
                            Yes! SPC or Ingalls. Regular ball joints on lowered cars are "hyper extended"
                            they are pushing out as far as possible, do the camber angle. Regular boots will tear much faster when such tension is put on them.

                            Project:Black Skittle

                            AOM->April 2014

                            MRT->http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=199779

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