h22 low oil pressure

[MortsAccord]

Get a oil pressure gauge and go from there. I took the chance of what was a bad sending unit went to get a oil pressure gauge and locked my b1 build up in the parking lot so it was a bad pump aswell as the sending unit.

This should be done.

I'd say engine is worn out that oil pressure is not building up even with "new oil pump" installed.

. This is the best diagnosis so far.


Bro, what you have is a spun bearing. Be it rod or main, both will seep excessive ammounts of oil and cause your oil light to come on at idle. The reason it does it more as the engine warms up is that orifice expands slightly and the oil thins out, which results in inadequate flow to the solenoids valve, so even if it opened the pressure at the top of the head is crap. You have enough pressure so long as the oil light is not on, as the ecu sees it anyways. However you have a large leak inside your engine on a bearing which is robbing the pressure,(post pressure switch)

I would bet money, if you idle your car and barely get on the throttle with the car in 1st or 2nd gear you will hear your valves tapping a good bit, since there will be significantly less oil going to the head. Do this with the windows down. Another way to notice it s get under load at 4k, going uphill works well, and back off the throttle slowly/gently, listen for chatter, like the noise an engine makes after an oil change, before the oil reaches the valves.

Rebuild the engine with new mains. If you cant then sell the engine, or have a shop rebuild it. Either way STOP DRIVING THAT ENGINE. Or it wont be worth anything.

Another sign of a worn out engine is the oil light staying on for afew seconds after the engine is started. When you crank your engine over the light should go out. Turn he car on and let the lights self test, start the car, i bet the oil light stays on for a few seconds..

[SOHC-FTW]

Colors is the only way to tell on the bearings as far as i know. I think green is most common if i remember correctly but not 100 percent sure.

Wrong honda did a mini blueprint on most of their blocks, i know for a fact anything from 88-00 honda (USDM) can be decoded. Yes bearings new or a low mileage block will have the colors on the side of the bearing, but i've only seen a few that you could actually tell what the color was. The most accurate way is to decode the block like i stated above, but only if they're is no excessive wear or damage on the journal's or bearings will this be worth while as when you have the cap's, rods, and journal's machined it doesn't really matter as you or the builder will need to measure to get the correct tolerance's anyway.

[98vtec]

holy crap this thread is a nightmare.

[jdmkilla26]

Thanks for all the relplys guys the engine sounds good still have power(i domt abuse it anymore since this issue) do y guys think I should rebiuld the whole thing? Head has no tickings either its just bearings I order a set of acl oem bearings min and rod what would happen if I just put this bearings with out checking the journals thanks guys!!!!!

[jdmkilla26]

holy crap this thread is a nightmare.

Lmao!!!!!!!! This whole journal thing.is a nightmare

[98vtec]

Seriously man? Wtf do you think could happen? Its an engine, not legos. Proper clearance must be set or it comes apart or locks up. When you have copper shavings in your oil, the bearings are more than worn. They are done. Simply replacing bearings witgout making sure the rest of the system is ok is idiototic, dumb and just down riggt ignorant.

Let someone fix your car that knoes how before you fuck it up any worse

[evil_demon_01]

Thanks for all the relplys guys the engine sounds good still have power(i domt abuse it anymore since this issue) do y guys think I should rebiuld the whole thing? Head has no tickings either its just bearings I order a set of acl oem bearings min and rod what would happen if I just put this bearings with out checking the journals thanks guys!!!!!

And again - I think you should let a mechanic fix it.

Your guessing at everything that could be wrong.

[oyajicool]

Thanks for all the relplys guys the engine sounds good still have power(i domt abuse it anymore since this issue) do y guys think I should rebiuld the whole thing? Head has no tickings either its just bearings I order a set of acl oem bearings min and rod what would happen if I just put this bearings with out checking the journals thanks guys!!!!!

I've never done it like that. So please let us know your outcome is. Thank you

[MortsAccord]

holy crap this thread is a nightmare.

Seriously man? Wtf do you think could happen? Its an engine, not legos. Proper clearance must be set or it comes apart or locks up. When you have copper shavings in your oil, the bearings are more than worn. They are done. Simply replacing bearings witgout making sure the rest of the system is ok is idiototic, dumb and just down riggt ignorant.

Let someone fix your car that knoes how before you fuck it up any worse

THIS~!

Because now eveything that requires the engine oil as lubrication needs to be mic'd to see where the tolerances lie. You cannot hope to just put the engine back together with 1 replaced main bearing and expect it to last. As a matte rof fact you would probably spin the replaced bearing FIRST, because its clearances (if done right) would be much tighter than the other worn bearings. which would make it carry an abnormal ammount of the engines load/twisting force. - congrats youd just waste more money.



OP:

When you have a main bearing issue/rod bearing issue(more than likely its a main IMO) then you usually have oil starvation at other points of the engine, especially AFTER where the leak(excessive flow point where the bearing is spun) is.

Crude example
Imagine pumping any fluid straight up a tube, and its feeding 4 lines, each 20" higher than the next., with just straw sized hole for each. Now open that lowest straw up to say a 1/2" pipe instead of a 1/16th" straw, whats going to happen to the flow? Since the pumping system would be built to have adequate pressure and flow for those 4 straw sized orfices, when that lowest one opens up then the upper 3 will have a lot less going to them. The same thing happens in your house when you turn on too many things requiring water pressure and flow.

Ever be taking a hot shower and someone flushes a toilet/runs the dishwasher or starts a load of laundry? Same thing really. but instead of being uncomfortable, your engine is eating itself.

[h22sparkle]

Seriously man? Wtf do you think could happen? Its an engine, not legos. Proper clearance must be set or it comes apart or locks up. When you have copper shavings in your oil, the bearings are more than worn. They are done. Simply replacing bearings witgout making sure the rest of the system is ok is idiototic, dumb and just down riggt ignorant.

Let someone fix your car that knoes how before you fuck it up any worse

Is this the same 98vtec with the 98 lude from hondatech or was it some other website hondaforums.com I believe?

[SOHC-FTW]

All we can do is give you good advice and if you don't want to take it so be it. You can not half ass a bottom end rebuild or build and this is the route you and that poor H are headed down. Your cheapest option is to source out another long block or short block, it's not a hard concept to understand that clearances really matter and it is not a challenge any beginner should try and tackle unless they have an extra engine or dd aswell as tools, know how, and money to flush down the shiter.

[jdmkilla26]

All we can do is give you good advice and if you don't want to take it so be it. You can not half ass a bottom end rebuild or build and this is the route you and that poor H are headed down. Your cheapest option is to source out another long block or short block, it's not a hard concept to understand that clearances really matter and it is not a challenge any beginner should try and tackle unless they have an extra engine or dd aswell as tools, know how, and money to flush down the shiter.

U guys do give good advice theres no question bout it its just that is sooo depressing the fact that I just spent 300$ fixing the oil pump and tb I dont get.y honds made this engine so dificult to change its bearings???. this bearing design its horrible anyways I was looking on craiglist an saw another h22 ima go see it tomorow if I like ut ima do anooother swap on sunday and rebuild this one this car is my dd so I got no choice

[SOHC-FTW]

Every car/engine i've ever owned has desired clearances it's not just honda this i why people make a living off such things. Do research on the subject and you will be amazed at what goes into any engine rebuild. The first engine i ever rebuilt was a lawn mower engine at 15 it was good practice i've rebuilt a few anything from a 302 to honda's i'm definitely no expert and i just do it for fun or if i need to, but learning hands on and from reading goes along ways as far as understanding what it takes it's not a slap together process.

You can use those new parts for your next H22 easily so it is not a complete waste. Check any engine you're looking at from top to bottom if its out of the car but still has the trans you can still compression test it, if it's in a car compression test it and drive it....also have a look see at the bottom end aswell.

[jdmkilla26]

All we can do is give you good advice and if you don't want to take it so be it. You can not half ass a bottom end rebuild or build and this is the route you and that poor H are headed down. Your cheapest option is to source out another long block or short block, it's not a hard concept to understand that clearances really matter and it is not a challenge any beginner should try and tackle unless they have an extra engine or dd aswell as tools, know how, and money to flush down the shiter.

For me this is the firs h22 that I had ive owend a hatch with ls coupe with a gsr and single cam and I change the.bearings the normal way, some cheap bearings from autozone and call it the day allways worked good for me as a matter of fact I did bearings on a ls vtec with some autozone bearings and block saw 8000 rpm almost every weekend for over 9 months sold it to my friend he kill it, no cause of bearings but a crack puston soo u dint really need to check clearence on other motors just my opinion. I think this is outrageus cuz I call honda and the told me that in order to get me the right bearings they need to measuree the tickness of the old 1 so does that mean ther r going to give me 1 as thin as the old 1???? Sorry if the question is kinda of noob

[SOHC-FTW]

Your opinion is just wrong and you got lucky. Fact is they all use color coded bearings which are different thickness's you mess that up and premature wear WILL happen leading to failure period. Any honda manual will give you you're desired clearances for journal to bearing clearance. They're is no standard one sizes fits all bearings even the slightest to tight or to lose clearances can make for a big paper weight, if you're happy with that go for it but if you want it to last it will cost and you clearly need a better understanding about this and friction on metal surfaces.
This article might help please read and understand it aswell as get a manual for a prelude.
http://www.evans-tuning.com/support/...-a-gsr-engine/

This is just for starters do the research and you will find gobes of rebuild and decoding articles and threads. Alot more than slapping bearings goes into any worthwhile rebuild or build not to mention other clearances besides just bearings.