h22a1 swap problem

[mikey57]

i have an h22ai swap i have replaced every part i can thing of but my car still pops and boggs down its running bad everything i beleive was hooked up right just cant get the boging to stop it dont do it has bad at high rpm can anyone give me some pointers?? please help im outta options

[deevergote]

If you installed your H22 the way you type a sentence, that could very well be your problem...

Did you replace the timing belt when you installed the engine? Did you do a compression test? Have you inspected the ignition components (plugs, wires, cap, rotor)? When does it pop and bog... at all RPMs, or just some? What ECU are you running? Do you have a CEL?

[mikey57]

lol sorry my spellin is a lil bad lmao but anyways im running a p28 chipped ecu and have checked everything i have replaced the timing belt check all ignition components everything is checkin out its throwing a egr code but the egr is working fine and it was just doing it at low rpm and high one was fine it was werid cause it would run bad tell my engine light came on then it was fine now its doing at all rpms if it would be easier to talk call me on 573-826-0439
and thanks cause i need the help ive dumped to much money in this to just quit im out of options i only know so much....

and it bogs down when i give it gas and pops mostly the hole time it feels like my motor is being restricted

and yes my engine light come on after i drive it for a bit or it warms up

[Jarrett]

His complaint isn't primarily with your spelling. It's your sentence structure. And it was his way of suggesting to you that you should do something to alter it if you expect to receive any help. Use periods and commas to break up your thoughts and sentences. And before you rant, I don't care that you don't think a forum should be worried about your grammar. You need help and there are tons of people here able to give it to you. Just help them understand you.

You say that have a CEL. Have you tried pulling the code? That would be my first step. Here's a guide:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=21259

You might also want to try running the PT3/PT6 just to see if it idles. I wouldn't drive it on that ECU at all, but if it idles then it's a problem with whatever basemap you were given on the chipped P28.

Have you made sure that your spark plugs are where they belong on the distributor? Here is a diagram of the order they go in.


And finally, since the beginner technical section has a sticky that says "READ HERE FIRST" I'm sure you've already read through all of these. But in case you missed something here's the link to it again.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=158531

[mikey57]

If you installed your H22 the way you type a sentence, that could very well be your problem...

Did you replace the timing belt when you installed the engine? Did you do a compression test? Have you inspected the ignition components (plugs, wires, cap, rotor)? When does it pop and bog... at all RPMs, or just some? What ECU are you running? Do you have a CEL?

i am mikes mechanic and ill help shed some light on the problem.

he bought the car with the h22 already installed and it was running good when he bought it. it is a jdm h22a running a (real) spoon p13 ecu and 91 octane fuel. to answer your questions: no the timing belt hasnt been replaced while in his possesion but cam timing has been checked twice along with the valve clearances. compression test was perfect in all cylinders. it has new ngk wires, ngk plugs, cap and rotor. from my experience if the coil is bad it wont start and if the ignitor is bad then the tach would act crazy or not work. it idles perfect as can be but from 1000-4000rpms it studders and misses. even without a load and revving it up in neutral. it does have a check engine light that pops up every now and again for the EGR valve lift sensor. all the wiring for that has been checked out and we also replaced the egr.

here are some more things we have checked:
-tried a p28 ecu. same problem.
-swapped out the temp. sensor
-new throttle body and new TPS (caliberated correctly)
-has a 1 inch civic exhaust on it. ran it open header and same problem.
-checked igntion timing. its at stock now but have tried retarding and advancing it
-checked firing order

thats all i can remember right now..

[mikey57]

from reading other threads on the internet it seems to be ALOT of people have the same exact issue with the jdm h22's..but i have not seen any solutions.

http://www.preludeonline.com/f28/if-...k-here-233673/

[Jarrett]

If it was running well when he bought it, has he added anything to the car during his ownership that would affect performance?

Is the knock sensor wired up?

[mikey57]

If it was running well when he bought it, has he added anything to the car during his ownership that would affect performance?

Is the knock sensor wired up?

no nothing was added. this problem came up shortly after he bought the car..has been going on for a couple months now trying to figure out this issue.

the knock sensor is plugged into the harness and no codes for it. i assume it is working. i have ran civics before with broken knock sensors and they ran fine.

[Jarrett]

Do you have a factory P13 at your disposal or can you get ahold of one?

[mikey57]

Do you have a factory P13 at your disposal or can you get ahold of one?

no, i dont. just a virgin p28 and it runs exactly the same on it. idles perfect. rev it up and it misfires. i know p28's have completely different maps and smaller injectors but still, i dont think it should misfire revving it up. and no codes thrown while on p28.

i have researched the spoon ecu's and there seems to be alot of people that run them without a issue.

[h22sparkle]

Smdh

[SOHC-FTW]

Try a p13 the word "Chipped" or "Spoon" (Fake crap ecu btw) doesn't mean it is properly tuned for that engine, it means it's a generic basemap for god only knows what in 99% of these cases. I will never get the "Oh my ecu is chipped so it's awsome" mentality, they usually cause more issues than they are worth unless an actual tuner lends you a SAFE map to drive to him the actual tuner and key word being safe. You gain nothing really and probably lose power and for sure reliability.

And virgin means untouched ofcourse a virgin p28 will NEVER run an H even remotely close to what it is suppose to.

[deevergote]

A virgin P28 implies that the ECU is unmodified. Are you running your H22 on a completely stock Civic ECU? If so, you may have already done damage.

Get a stock P13. Get it running right on a P13 before using any modified ECU. Then, when you go for a modified ECU, ONLY use a map that was tuned for your specific engine. There isn't much power to be gained from a tune on a near stock H22 anyway, so there's no point to run a chipped ECU.


And yes, there ARE real Spoon P13s floating around. They're one of the few tuning houses that have actually modified the P13. Someone on here had one, and took pictures.

[mikey57]

maybe you guys missed it but i said the spoon p13 was REAL ...not ebay crap.

its been running this ecu the whole time, even when it was running perfect.

the p28 was just used to start it up and give it a little throttle in neutral to see if it fixed the with studdering between 1,000-4,000rpms. it acted the same as the p13..idled perfect and studdered when giving it a little throttle.

its not being driven on the p28 and no it will not hurt anything to start it up on it and give it about 5% throttle.

[mikey57]

taken from another forum regarding the spoon p13:

"I'm not sure if this is a rare item or not, but I have only seen a handful of these floating around..Please don't ask me what the specs are, as I seriously have no idea I do know that VTEC crossover is at 4800 RPM, and that both the speed limiter and rev limiter has been removed.

As for comparison with stock P13 ECU, I have compared it on both a 100% stock H22A, as well as H22A with bolt-ons (Intake, Header, Exhaust, No cat)...The results are similar on both setups: The Spoon P13 has a much smoother VTEC crossover, and there are noticeable gains in both low and mid RPM range. The stock P13 feels more sluggish in the low and mid range, although VTEC kicks in harder at 5200 RPM. The stock P13 also runs richer than the Spoon P13.

Bottom line: Compared to the stock P13, The Spoon P13 runs smoother from idle all the way to redline (Whatever your redline may be )..I'm not claiming any gains in hp number, but both acceleration and throttle response is definitely improved, more noticeably within the non-VTEC portion. I was about to try this ECU out with the Euro-R IM, 68mm TB and 3" intake, but unfortunately that plan fell through..So up for sale it goes!"