Parts to change out while replacing the clutch

[youngflyndsaved]

Well i messed something within my transmission/drivetrain setup when i missed a shift, due to my clutch master cylinder beginning to go out. I replaced my cmc with a brand new PowerTorque brand one and my slave cylinder (which looks and functions fine) with another working one to see if that would fix my problem. I still can't change gears while the engine is on, my clutch pedal feels vibrationy when i barely put pressure on it and makes some type of funny screeching/chattering noise where the shift fork and throwout bearing area is.

While all that is out i'm gonna change out the rear main seal with a new Honda one, new Honda MTF (or Synchromesh), and new flywheel bolts. Going with ARP bolts over Honda because the price is about the same. Local dealership always tries to rape my pockets.

Any other parts that you guys would recommend replacing? And what kind of Loctite should i put on the flywheel bolts? I hear they can be a pain to remove sometimes so any special methods you guys use to remove them would help .

[reklipz]

Well i messed something within my transmission/drivetrain setup when i missed a shift, due to my clutch master cylinder beginning to go out. I replaced my cmc with a brand new PowerTorque brand one and my slave cylinder (which looks and functions fine) with another working one to see if that would fix my problem. I still can't change gears while the engine is on, my clutch pedal feels vibrationy when i barely put pressure on it and makes some type of funny screeching/chattering noise where the shift fork and throwout bearing area is.

While all that is out i'm gonna change out the rear main seal with a new Honda one, new Honda MTF (or Synchromesh), and new flywheel bolts. Going with ARP bolts over Honda because the price is about the same. Local dealership always tries to rape my pockets.

Any other parts that you guys would recommend replacing? And what kind of Loctite should i put on the flywheel bolts? I hear they can be a pain to remove sometimes so any special methods you guys use to remove them would help .

Transmission input shaft seal might be worth replacing while you have it down. Otherwise, if you think there's something wrong or going out inside the transmission, like synchronizers, now would be a good time to replace them as well.

[HelmHoltz]

Rear main seal is a must. Go with the Honda fluid, get ADLER clutch Master and slave cylinder.

[H311RA151N]

Rear main seal is a must. Go with the Honda fluid, get ADLER clutch Master and slave cylinder.

Centric FTW. I actually went to school to work on Transmissions. Thats what i have been doing for the last 4 years. I work for ACE in Springfield.

But i havent had to work on many manual transmissions from Honda. Ive replaced a few syncros in these cars but mostly just changing out clutches, and slave cylinders. I can only think of one time when i had to change hard parts in a Honda manual transmission. They are pretty tough tranys.

[youngflyndsaved]

Well i've heard GM Synchromesh is pretty good compared to Genuine Honda MTF. But the price for Synchromesh is a little bit higher. And i was contemplating on ordering Adler online but i needed my car back running quick so i payed 27.05 for PowerTorque with a lifetime warranty at O'Reilly Auto. The place i'm ordering my clutch kit from also sells Exedy Master and Slave Cylinders, which i would think to be more superior to Adler. $53 for a brand new Exedy cmc and sc is a steal too.

Trans Input Shaft seal is a good thing to add on, i'll look into that. As far as gear synchros i don't think those are my problem. If they were then that would require me to crack open my trans case and touch crucial components, which i have no experience in so i don't feel comfortable doing that.

[deevergote]

Sounds like your shifting problem may be similar to mine... and I haven't yet figured it out. It's a bleeding issue for me, I'm sure.


When it comes to replacing components, ONLY use an OEM Honda throwout bearing. Replace the rear main seal (I didn't do this, and I'd be willing to bet it's what ends up destroying my H22...) If you separate the axle joints, or you tear a ball joint boot... replace those parts.

[youngflyndsaved]

I've read about you mentioning your shifting problem and i was about to pm you about it but hopefully a clutch kit can solve mine. I thought it was a bleeding issue so i have my little brother pushing the clutch pedal while i'm watching for bubbles and nothing but fluid, plus i can see and hear the slave cylinder pushing the shift fork. And i don't think it's my transmission itself because i can change gears fine with the engine off but when i turn it on and try to shift i hear/feel funnyness in the area i mentioned. Have you personally checked your throwout bearing and clutch itself?

And you say change out the throwout bearing with an OEM Honda one, would Exedy be fine since they (Daikin) basically manufacture for Honda?
-the clutch kit i'm ordering is this one
http://gripforce.com/product/exedy-o...2-f23-h22.html

[deevergote]

I've heard that the Exedy bearings are fine, though I think one person had a problem with it. I would be more willing to trust that than any other bearing.

My throwout bearing, clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel are all brand new. All crap XTD stuff, aside from the throwout bearing (which is OEM... the reason my car is down is because the XTD bearing I used previously seized and destroyed the clutch and flywheel...) I suppose there could be something wrong with the components, but they looked fine when I installed them, and I'm quite sure I installed them correctly (I've done it before.)

I think in my case, it's a bit of air in the slave cylinder. I'm going to try fully compressing the slave, then zip-tying it in place. THEN I'll bleed the system. From what I've read, the zip tie should snap when there's enough pressure, and by that time, all air should be out. I'll let you know if it works!

Do you actually need a new clutch, or are you replacing it because you feel it may correct the pressure problem?

[youngflyndsaved]

Do you get any clutch pedal pressure at all? Your problem sounds hard to solve and i hope mine is simpler lol. The ziptie thing sounds like a good test though.

Well i was just going to go ahead and buy the clutch kit hoping it would fix my problem but i've been on the fence about it. Out of desperation i was just going to rush and buy it hoping it would fix my problem. Now i've been thinking of just waiting to drop the transmission and inspect everything before i spend about $400 on parts that won't solve anything. Either way the clutch and flywheel were parts on my engine build, if they don't fix it then it's just a few checks off my list anyway.

For flywheel bolts, you have any special tips on removing those? And did you use Loctite? I believe ARP bolts come with assembly lube so i'm not sure if flywheel ones do too.

[deevergote]

I didn't use any Loctite on my flywheel bolts. I believe they're 10mm 12 point bolts, so be sure you have that socket. I kinda slapped mine in there halfassed, though. I grabbed the whole XTD Stage 1 kit from my friend across the street for $100, just because he had it on hand and didn't want it anymore. I was hoping to get my car fixed quickly, so I slapped that in... I expect to remove it long before it NEEDS to come out, so I didn't really install it with the greatest care!

Getting the new clutch isn't a bad idea if you'll actually have a use for it later on. But if your problem is like mine, and mine is what I think it is, then it may be unnecessary in light of the current issue. Still, replacing a wear item is NEVER a bad idea.

I can get partial pressure. Enough to move the slave cylinder a bit, but not enough to put it in gear when the engine is running. Like you, I can shift into every gear with ease when the engine is off.

[youngflyndsaved]

I would want to blame it on something within your clutch setup but it might not be. I don't think you need that much pressure in your system to atleast get it open a little bit. What happened that caused your setup to stop working? And have you since inspected after you installed it? Is XTD any better than F1? I was reading on F1 but i'm a fan of using strictly Japanese made parts.

On another note i'm in the process of dropping the transmission. I removed the access cover at the bottom of the trans to inspect the flywheel and found all these fiber particles and pieces which resembled like the pieces that are on the clutch disk so i hope that is my problem. Either way i'm gonna need a new clutch kit so i went ahead and placed my order today on an Exedy kit with a Fidanza 8lb, along with some ARP flywheel bolts. Should be getting them this week . I'll post some pictures of the horror when i log on to a desktop.

[BRcb7tuner]

I wouldn't recommend the arp flywheel bolts. People on honda-tech were complaining about them being to long/short.

[youngflyndsaved]

I wouldn't recommend the arp flywheel bolts. People on honda-tech were complaining about them being to long/short.

Do you know what bolts they used? Part number specific or atleast setup specific like B series, D series etc. The only thing i see that's different really is the bolt head. It's a thin flat design. Most likely for minute weight savings + help with balancing. Plus i don't take to heart what i read on HT.

[BRcb7tuner]

I don't really remember what all was really said about them if you search H-T for arp flywheel bolts and search under titles I'm sure you can find the threads as there were a few of them. Also after reading and debating on loctite or no loctite I went with red loctite on mine.

[youngflyndsaved]

I don't really remember what all was really said about them if you search H-T for arp flywheel bolts and search under titles I'm sure you can find the threads as there were a few of them. Also after reading and debating on loctite or no loctite I went with red loctite on mine.

I think this is the one you're talking about?
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2899423

It says something about having to use a washer. I hope my set comes with them lol. If not i'll call just call ARP and see what's up.