H22/H23 head?

[ray719]

I have actualy done a similar build with an f22b1 bottom end and h22a4 top there are a few tricky parts to this build but its not as hard as it seems. First off it is much better for boost than any stock h block because the f series does have cast iron sleeves. I never bored my block and never saw any problems but it may be a good thought. The biggest problem with fitment is 2 oil valleys on the head that are non existent on f block they are on the drivers front and pass back corners. You have 2 options; 1 take the time to make a custom head gasket ( this was my choose very time consuming and you will always have a very slight oil leak from these 2 valleys) 2 weld them shut(much easyer and alittle more promising). I can't remember the timing belt size but best bet is to measure it with a piece of string (wrap it around tight just as the belt would run slide it off and take it with to the parts store they have a tool to measure the size). After you get a belt on it the next issue is timing. You will need to build a bracket for the distributor it needs to sit about 90 degrees further than the stock mounts will allow regardless what distributor u use. I went with the h series computer because it is dohc. But I think that's it. I would love to see someone else do this I'm here to help and would love to know how it goes so keep us updated. Good luck.

[deevergote]

I have actualy done a similar build with an f22b1 bottom end and h22a4 top there are a few tricky parts to this build but its not as hard as it seems. First off it is much better for boost than any stock h block because the f series does have cast iron sleeves. I never bored my block and never saw any problems but it may be a good thought. The biggest problem with fitment is 2 oil valleys on the head that are non existent on f block they are on the drivers front and pass back corners. You have 2 options; 1 take the time to make a custom head gasket ( this was my choose very time consuming and you will always have a very slight oil leak from these 2 valleys) 2 weld them shut(much easyer and alittle more promising). I can't remember the timing belt size but best bet is to measure it with a piece of string (wrap it around tight just as the belt would run slide it off and take it with to the parts store they have a tool to measure the size). After you get a belt on it the next issue is timing. You will need to build a bracket for the distributor it needs to sit about 90 degrees further than the stock mounts will allow regardless what distributor u use. I went with the h series computer because it is dohc. But I think that's it. I would love to see someone else do this I'm here to help and would love to know how it goes so keep us updated. Good luck.

... and this is the stuff that keeps people trying to do this idiotic "frankenstein" swap.

The F22's iron sleeves have nothing to do with it. If you're not trying to install forged pistons, the FRM sleeves in the H block aren't a problem... and even with the FRM, you have the option of Mahle Gold Series pistons.
The F22A head, with boost, will work just as well as the H22A head. There is NO reason to swap if you want boost.

in fact, there is NO reason do an H/F headswap at all. Ever. It is a waste of time, a waste of money, and it creates a potentially unreliable engine.

[ray719]

I never saw any thing unreliable about it. You just have to have the basic understanding and knowledge to do it I have had fully stock f blocks pushing more boost than any unmolested h could handle. (why no you think bisi uses the f series). The block is bollet prof the build its self is called a g23 it give you the ability of a dohc with a solid block or you can spend $1000+ to make your aluminium block handle the same. To me it doesn't make sence to build an h to handle what the race inspired f comes with stock. I have done alot of research on this before I ever tried it. I have had 1 h22 but blew a rod threw the side with 15psi boost. I have ran many f's on 20psi+ boost with no problems. Imo an h is only good for parts but the f series is were its all at.

[92smokeaccord]

I never saw any thing unreliable about it. You just have to have the basic understanding and knowledge to do it I have had fully stock f blocks pushing more boost than any unmolested h could handle. (why no you think bisi uses the f series). The block is bollet prof the build its self is called a g23 it give you the ability of a dohc with a solid block or you can spend $1000+ to make your aluminium block handle the same. To me it doesn't make sence to build an h to handle what the race inspired f comes with stock. I have done alot of research on this before I ever tried it. I have had 1 h22 but blew a rod threw the side with 15psi boost. I have ran many f's on 20psi+ boost with no problems. Imo an h is only good for parts but the f series is were its all at.

on a f22b that was so clean you could eat out of it.....on 5-8 psi daily for 2 months.f22a/b motors suck in stock form for boost period.same as the h.

[SOHC-FTW]

I never saw any thing unreliable about it. You just have to have the basic understanding and knowledge to do it I have had fully stock f blocks pushing more boost than any unmolested h could handle. (why no you think bisi uses the f series). The block is bollet prof the build its self is called a g23 it give you the ability of a dohc with a solid block or you can spend $1000+ to make your aluminium block handle the same. To me it doesn't make sence to build an h to handle what the race inspired f comes with stock. I have done alot of research on this before I ever tried it. I have had 1 h22 but blew a rod threw the side with 15psi boost. I have ran many f's on 20psi+ boost with no problems. Imo an h is only good for parts but the f series is were its all at.

This was a major pain to try and read, but damnit bobby i'm a trooper so i pushed through.

I still have very little clue as to what you're trying to say/get at.

[GhostAccord]

on a f22b that was so clean you could eat out of it.....on 5-8 psi daily for 2 months.f22a/b motors suck in stock form for boost period.same as the h.

If I remember correctly that engine wasn't properly tuned or was it? Tuning has a lot to do with how long the pistons/engine will last under boost. Just saying....

In saying that Cast pistons are garbage, forged pistons are the best choice no matter what your building..... The F & H blocks sleeves are both strong, they are not the week point.

[8ball]

If you have say 500 bucks, the tools and time, just do it N/A the motor should last at least 100k if you dont rev past 6.5k. Dont see what to big issue is here.

Word to the wise to the OP you have to really know what you are doing you aren't exactly doing an OEM build. You have to measure the head and block and adapt them correctly (matching the head to other blocks bore) you have a lot to consider with rotating assembly (pistons and cooling ports etc). Its not exactly easy but its probably easier than say... ls/vtec.
Actually, no, its not easier; cause ls/vtec has been whored out and there is plenty of info available. As an example avoiding a head that is way out of spec.

[esskater892]

If you have say 500 bucks, the tools and time, just do it N/A the motor should last at least 100k if you dont rev past 6.5k. Dont see what to big issue is here.

Word to the wise to the OP you have to really know what you are doing you aren't exactly doing an OEM build. You have to measure the head and block and adapt them correctly (matching the head to other blocks bore) you have a lot to consider with rotating assembly (pistons and cooling ports etc). Its not exactly easy but its probably easier than say... ls/vtec.
Actually, no, its not easier; cause ls/vtec has been whored out and there is plenty of info available. As an example avoiding a head that is way out of spec.

this is prob the best advice,
i have no intention to go turbo. if i do this build ill go to a jy pull a f22 block bore it over to fit the h23 pistons and slap the h23 head on it just for the hell of it. ill read and learn so i know what im doing.

EDIT: ill be sticking the with f22a block. im currently doing a f22a build SOHC. this H23DOHC/F22a block will be all stock parts using H23 pistons and the head and other misc h23 parts. but the block will be F22.

ill prob weld the extra oil ports shut as i do not want oil of any amount to leak. this will be a side build with little money. but my current build comes first.

again thanks for the helpful information.

[92smokeaccord]

If I remember correctly that engine wasn't properly tuned or was it? Tuning has a lot to do with how long the pistons/engine will last under boost. Just saying....

In saying that Cast pistons are garbage, forged pistons are the best choice no matter what your building..... The F & H blocks sleeves are both strong, they are not the week point.

it was...actually it just got tunned like 3 or 5 days after i finished tthe turbo set up.it prob didnt help that i was beating on it befor the tune tho...lol