What should be replaced on a 325,000 mile accord?

[Mishakol129]

Hi again. As you may read in the title, I have an old accord wagon with many many miles on it. So I am trying to rebuild the engine. What I want to know now is, since my car is so old, there is bound to be other things which need rejuvenation as well. If someone would be nice enough, it would help if I had a list of these things. Things I have in mind that may need replacing are: The brakes (my brakes suck and seem dangerous). I am not sure if the calipers need replacing or what (im a newb). Also, the suspension seems weak. The driveshafts may need to be replaced as well, those are ancient.


My main goal is that I want my car to run like new again. I want it to perform well on all areas of driving. The brakes, the suspension, everything including the engine should rejuvenated for factory performance.


Is there a guide someone could direct me to, that would be great.



Thanks,


Misha

[DarksydeDragun]

CV axles
rotors with loaded calipers
water pump and timing belt
ground wires
tie rod ends (inner and outer)
upper and lower balljoints
all suspension bushings
wheel bearings
valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals
distributor cap and rotor and plugs and wires
air filter
oil and filter
coolant flush
trans. fluid

basically anything that moves, hold any kind of pressure, or can wear in any way should be checked/replaced. it really just depends on how well it's been maintained

[GXLancer]

Save up and swap an H22 in it, dont waste your time rebuilding a motor thats that old, jmo but it will probally save you money in the long run.

[Mishakol129]

CV axles
rotors with loaded calipers
water pump and timing belt
ground wires
tie rod ends (inner and outer)
upper and lower balljoints
all suspension bushings
wheel bearings
valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals
distributor cap and rotor and plugs and wires
air filter
oil and filter
coolant flush
trans. fluid

basically anything that moves, hold any kind of pressure, or can wear in any way should be checked/replaced. it really just depends on how well it's been maintained

Thanks for this. I'm just paranoid im gonna crash into something if I have crappy brakes and sloppy suspension. Speaking of suspension, isn't there something on the list missing, like springs or shock absorbers? Advance recommended shocks be changed every 50,000 miles.

btw, what are "ground wires"?

[Mishakol129]

Save up and swap an H22 in it, dont waste your time rebuilding a motor thats that old, jmo but it will probally save you money in the long run.

Na, i've already decided on the rebuild, i've even got the f22 rebuild video. I'm gonna be so glad if and when I get it done. Plus, i've got a rebuilt cylinder head on the motor which I spent way too much at the shop to install.

It must be resurrected from the dead.


EDIT: The only thing i'm worried about this engine is the automatic transmission, its as old as the motor.

[GXLancer]

You already paid a shop to install a rebuit head and now your planning on rebuilding the bottom? Its your car man but that sounds pretty a$$ backwards.

[Mishakol129]

You already paid a shop to install a rebuit head and now your planning on rebuilding the bottom? Its your car man but that sounds pretty a$$ backwards.

That was over a year and a half ago. I learned since then.

I learned not to go to mechanics anymore after realizing the fact that I am fully capable of doing the same work and don't need to spend and arm + leg for labor. Bill after bill after bill was going crazy.

[Losiracer2]

A low mileage engine from an importer would be a better idea. To do a full rebuild on the engine wouldn't be worth it for what I think you're going to use it for, daily driving?

[Mishakol129]

A low mileage engine from an importer would be a better idea. To do a full rebuild on the engine wouldn't be worth it for what I think you're going to use it for, daily driving?

Yes, daily driving, but I want it to be a decent performer so I can be safe on the road.

[Losiracer2]

Yes, daily driving, but I want it to be a decent performer so I can be safe on the road.

all you'd really have to do to make it road worth is change out the timing belt balance shaft belt and water pump and maybe rear main seal since its out and that'll make it reliable.

[wed3k]

A low mileage engine from an importer would be a better idea. To do a full rebuild on the engine wouldn't be worth it for what I think you're going to use it for, daily driving?

for the price of a dingle ball hone, rings and bearings. id rather opt for a freshen up. then again, i actually know how to put together engines. other people can fuck it up.

and fuck h22, there's a reason why they don't last 300k.

[8ball]

Its a toss up. You could buy the 500 dollar block from an importer but you still have to replace seals and gaskets and a timing job. I mean for the 500 bucks that the initial engine cost, you could have bought the internal parts (not the crank rods and pistons however).

Just depends evaluate what you really want to do. I THINK I want to do a Hybrid F23/A6 but then again Im not sure cause I'm trying not to have a money pit car. I need to evaluate where Im going with my car. But yes my car has 330k and with in the first 2 weeks of owning it. It has new rad cap/rotor coil wires igniter p12 ecu tokico springs shocks outer tie rods lower ball joints upper ball joints brake hoses rotors and calipers and soon a rack and pinion and energy bushings. Only things left are CV axles, clutch, 5 lug, tires and the rear upper control arm and rear 5 lug with brakes. Thats it. MY car is almost done. Just need to clean clean clean and fix the a/c and c/c . Im trying to not turn this into a money pit lol.

[Losiracer2]

i'm just saying what i think would be best for the OP, since he said he's newish to accords.

machine shop labor isn't cheap.

[Mishakol129]

all you'd really have to do to make it road worth is change out the timing belt balance shaft belt and water pump and maybe rear main seal since its out and that'll make it reliable.

The car is totally at its last rpms, the numbers for the compression test and leak tests were extremely bad. It has bad rings or pistons, maybe even a cracked block.

When first I got the car (91 wagon lx) for 500$, it was running okay at about 290,000 miles, until my brothers started messin with the valves and ruined the head. I had to get a new rebuilt head for it.

When I put the rebuild cylinder head on, all hell broke loose and it started consuming mad oil and to idle badly.

After that, at about 320,000 miles, I did something which worsened it. I put seafoam in the pcv valve and on the piston heads which eroded the same carbon deposits that were keeping my car (and its fainting heartbeat) alive. I did this as an attempt to 'unfreeze' an oil ring that may have been the cause of the consumption. Boy was I wrong. At its current state, my car shakes like a wet dog, won't keep its rpm's at idle, misfires, and sometimes stalls out... It needs a rebuilding bad...

[DarksydeDragun]

btw, what are "ground wires"?

the cables that ground the motor/trans. to the chassis. haven't been under the hood of my CB7 much yet since i just got it, but i know there's one on the thermostat housing, the power steering pump, and one or two that connect the negative battery post directly to the chassis. they need to be in good shape for the motor to run at it's full potential. i was just reading a thread on here the other day from someone that had 3 mechanics that couldn't diagnose their no-start issue, and it ended up being caused by the ground wire on the thermostat housing being broken off.