another ecu issue

[GXZ]

after my accord stopped running, i checked the codes and got the solid cel, indicating code zero, so i bought a different ecu off ebay, and still it wont start , so i checked the codes again and same thing . So my question is , is there anything that can go bad that would fool the diagnostic system into telling me its the ecu that went bad?

[CyborgGT]

I'm having a similar issue. My ECU fuse pops after driving for too long, but somehow the problem cures itself if enough things in the circuit are unplugged . So when it is actually able to start up without blowing the fuse I'm getting a solid CEL and a code 14 from the D4 light - which means a possible PGM-FI problem. I bought another ECU only to have the same problem, however now I'm getting different readings at the IACV/EACV connector. I'm afraid to actually drive on this new ECU, in case this problem fried my old one.

I already had the Chilton and Haynes manuals, which are for the most part useless, so I went and bought Honda's own service manuals ('Service Manual' and 'Electrical'). Still trying to figure this out. My car's been sitting for about a month because I'm too exhausted, mentally, to keep looking at the same circuit over and over again without ever learning anything new. I could drive until the fuse pops again and look at it while whatever short I have is happening, but nearly every test requires that the ignition be on... which I can't do with an open circuit.

[GXZ]

are you getting the solid cel without having jumped the blue connector? If so then i would be very concerned, in the case of my sitution, i am going to see if my local honda dealership can test my ecu, and if it is bad, then the next one i get off ebay, i am going to have tested before i install it to be sure my car doesnt have a fried harness or something that would instantly fry ecus

edit. Btw how many miles does your accord have ?

[dj_ender]

You could always open it up and look for fried components...

[CyborgGT]

I haven't looked at it in about a week, but I think it's that when I turn the ignition on, the CEL doesn't turn off after a couple seconds like it should. Know what that means? I try jumping the connector (I actually have a switch made) and don't get any codes - it stays solid.

I think I'm at about 266k miles or so on the chassis, and about 61k on the engine.

*ED* - I looked inside my old ECU before getting the new one. It looked fine.

[GXZ]

I will open up my original ecu and look at it. The one i got off ebay is already on its way back to the seller

[SOHC-FTW]

Did you pull the ecu fuse or disconnect the battery cables for messing with anything?

[GhostAccord]

after my accord stopped running, i checked the codes and got the solid cel, indicating code zero, so i bought a different ecu off ebay, and still it wont start , so i checked the codes again and same thing . So my question is , is there anything that can go bad that would fool the diagnostic system into telling me its the ecu that went bad?

A solid CEL with the SCS connector jumped is an indication that there are no stored codes. A solid CEL without the SCS connector jumped is an indication that the ECU is in back-up mode and there are stored codes that can be retrieved.

[GhostAccord]

Do you have fuel and spark getting to your engine? Were there any symptoms leading up to your car not running?

[GXZ]

A solid CEL with the SCS connector jumped is an indication that there are no stored codes. A solid CEL without the SCS connector jumped is an indication that the ECU is in back-up mode and there are stored codes that can be retrieved.

Ok thanks. Ive read in a ton of other posts that when the connector is jumped and the light is on that its a bad ecu, then earlier today in a thread i found after searching for hours i saw someones post saying the same thing you said.

Well i still have my original ecu and before i became aware my ecu is not bad, i opened it up and found nothing wrong, and before that i pulled the distributor cap and found a bunch of yellow crusty shit and white oxidation on the points and rotor point, so now, $32 later i got a new cap and rotor but havent installed them yet. The symptoms it was having before it stopped running was about every 15th time i would start it , it would just turn over for ever but never start and stay running, and what i mean by that is say i went to work i would start it and drive drive 8 miles then shut it off then start it at lunch and again to drive home from work , thats 3 starts in a day, by friday when i would go to start it to go home it would never start unless i banged on the dash really fin hard for like 5 min of almost constant banging while cranking it over for 15 seconds then letting the starter cool off for a bit and trying it again, now i didnt mention this earlier but a few days ago i pulled the man relay and found like 6 broken solder joints, and had my dad re solder them, after that we put it in and it didnt start but that was before we found the bad rotor and cap

In case the new rotor and cap still dont make it start, is it easy to test the coil? Another thing i forgot to mention was, after i re installed the fixed main relay, we checked for spark with a screwdriver in the plug boot with the shaft of it about an eighth to a quarter inch from the head while cranking it over and found no spark, but that was before i found out about the bad rotor and cap

Edit. Yes it has fuel i hear the pump for two seconds and smell it after cranking it

Sorry about the length of this post

[GhostAccord]

Coil and ignitor are both fairly easy to test. All you need is a multimeter and an Accord shop manual. Helms are the most detailed shop manuals, however, a Haynes manual covers the basics.

[GXZ]

I have the chilton manual but havent looked in it for how to test coil and igniter yet

[GXZ]

Ok in my pos chilton manual it doesnt cover how to test the coil or igniter. Can someone PLEASE post the steps on how to check these. THANKS

[GhostAccord]

That's odd that it doesn't show how to test the ignition system.

I'll see if I can dig something up. I'm pretty sure there are a couple threads around the forum with some test diagrams and procedures.

[GXZ]

Well i did find one thread that covered it but evrrything was really vague, i found a site with instructions but wasnt for 90 n 91 accords like mine with internal coil