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P12, car idle surge, bogging motor while accelerating

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    #1

    P12, car idle surge, bogging motor while accelerating

    So i got my p12 about 2 weeks ago. i have done research on this bad boy. pretty legit if you ask me.

    Now to my issue. When im driving normal it seems to be awesome. takes less gas pedal pressure to get the car going. But when im rippin on her, she likes to bog down then take off. The RPM curve is very nice and has the upper power.
    The car also has a surge between 1000-1600 rpm. This didnt happen until the new ecu was put in.

    Currently i have the PT3 back in my car and she doesnt have this issue. the car responds normal but the curve isnt a smooth as the P12. (on the top)

    Has anyone ever seen/heard/know of this? Any insight would be awesome

    I currently plan on replacing the distributor and cap, wires and i recently did the plugs about 3000 miles ago.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Did you unhook the battery and pull the back-up fuse prior to install?

    Comment

      #3
      x2

      Disconnect the negative cable on your battery before you install the P12 then connect it back when its installed ready to go this should reset the ecu.

      Also open up the ecu and check to see if you possibly have some fried caps.

      Another one..this might sound dumb but what O2 sensor do you have?


      Originally posted by deevergote
      .......If they seem smart, and just trying to learn, I'll offer as much help as possible. If they seem stupid and lazy, I'll do my best to piss them off so they leave and never come back... while still answering the question.

      Comment

        #4
        IF you remove a ecu out of the car = its reset....

        Are you auto, is the ecu auto?
        wat?

        Comment

          #5
          I actually replaced the o2 sensor.. cheapie denso from autocrap. The o2 sensor is on my header.

          I honestly did not unplug the negative upon putting the p12 in. I did however for the PT3. Do you think this may change anything if i take the negative out first?

          The o2 sensor was replaced last week

          also i forgot to mention this. The car would take longer to start. say 5 or + seconds.. (1 mississippi...) and then the cel appears then she starts. but she wont rev past 4k. just revs like its a launch control. (odd)
          EDIT once the cel comes on the car fires like there is no problem.. then once she warms up i can turn the car off then restart her and she will drive like she is suppose to.


          and its a p12 manual transmission ecu. It also has MT right in on it. I do have a manual transmission in my Cb.
          Last edited by 1990SL0Cb7; 05-01-2012, 01:34 PM.

          Comment

            #6
            If you got a cel, and it everything started to act normal/correct, then the code it threw is most likely your problem. Have you bothered to pull the code after you got the cel?
            PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

            Comment

              #7
              As previously mentioned, disconnecting the negative cable will do nothing considering the ECU has been removed from a power source already. To put it simply, that is what you are doing when you pull the fuse or disconnect the battery terminal. You are removing the power to the ECU's memory. Therefore, if you remove said ECU from the car it will be reset.

              Retrieving the code(s) would be a viable place to start trouble shooting. It's obvious that the P12 in normal operating form will not run your engine. Only in limp mode will it start your car. Stick with the PT3 or read and fix the code(s) issue(s) with the P12.
              MR Thread
              GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

              by Chappy, on Flickr

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by GhostAccord View Post
                As previously mentioned, disconnecting the negative cable will do nothing considering the ECU has been removed from a power source already. To put it simply, that is what you are doing when you pull the fuse or disconnect the battery terminal. You are removing the power to the ECU's memory. Therefore, if you remove said ECU from the car it will be reset.

                Retrieving the code(s) would be a viable place to start trouble shooting. It's obvious that the P12 in normal operating form will not run your engine. Only in limp mode will it start your car. Stick with the PT3 or read and fix the code(s) issue(s) with the P12.
                how will it not work for my f22a1. the computer is out of a 93 prelude si MT.


                i currently dont know how to run the code. nor do i know where to connect a reader..

                idk if this helps but i have a 1990 cb7 lx. all the research i have done shows that the pt3 is a different fuel map to the p12? am i wrong? i dont see how this wont work for my car.


                the CEL went away after the the o2 sensor was replace.. but once she starts first thing... and its cold.. or the motor is completely cold.. then it throws a code..

                ill start research on how to check for codes in our obd1s

                Comment

                  #9
                  What does "i have done research on this bad boy. pretty legit if you ask me. " mean? What is legit?


                  Anyway, yes... the bogging issue described is very often associated with the o2 sensor. That Denso is the correct one to get (Denso and NTK/NGK are the ONLY sensors known for sure to work.)
                  If the o2 sensor you replaced failed with the p12 installed, then the error code may still be stored in memory. However, now that the ECU has been unplugged for a while, it should have reset by now. Put it back in, and all should be good. If not... then chances are that your "legit" ECU is faulty.






                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                    What does "i have done research on this bad boy. pretty legit if you ask me. " mean? What is legit?


                    Anyway, yes... the bogging issue described is very often associated with the o2 sensor. That Denso is the correct one to get (Denso and NTK/NGK are the ONLY sensors known for sure to work.)
                    If the o2 sensor you replaced failed with the p12 installed, then the error code may still be stored in memory. However, now that the ECU has been unplugged for a while, it should have reset by now. Put it back in, and all should be good. If not... then chances are that your "legit" ECU is faulty.
                    hah when i say legit i mean its a cool little upgrade. sorry :P Ill check it out tomorrow after i get out of work and ill see whats going on with it.. it wasnt to expensive so im not worried about it being faulty. if it is, it is what it is!

                    thanks guys

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Disconnected the negative terminal this morning and put the P12 in. So far she is driving normal and she feels some what stronger than before. the rpms are really smooth. Ill post up more on what she does when we cruise tonight

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