Ok my tranny is either going bad or my shift silonds is going out my mileage is 124164 my tranny is a jnkyrd one just say the red marking on it. My fluids is like dark red and smells burnt. Wat yall recommend
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recommend tranny flush or drain & fill
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you need to replace the oil on the tranny it is suppose to look pink .. when the pink turns to red followed by a burnt smell that means the oil is bad and the tranny will not function properly
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Originally posted by daovangphotos View PostHere are the steps to a proper drain and fill for the automatic transmission:
You will need a 3/8 ratchet, a transmission funnel, a jack and jack stands and 3 bottles of Honda ATF (automatic transmission fluid)
Loosen the passenger front wheel, jack the car up and remove the passenger wheel.
On the transmission by the radius rod, there is a square indentation on the transmission.
That is where the 3/8 ratchet fits into perfectly.
Loosen that bolt and drain all of the transmission fluid.
When the fluid runs down to near empty, close up the drain plug, put the wheel back on and torque it to specs when you lower the car back on the ground.
Now go under the hood and towards the front of the car, by the lower radiator hose, look for the little dipstick that sticks into the transmission.
Pull that out, and using a transmission funnel, pour in 1 quart of Honda ATF.
Check under car for leaks, if it leaks, then you forgot to tighten the drain plug. If no leak, proceed.
Pour the 2nd bottle of Honda ATF into the transmission, then replace the dipstick.
Now the part where you break your back, lol
Start the car, let it warm up to normal operating temperature.
Raise the car so both front wheels are off the ground.
Sitting inside the driver seat, put the gear into REVERSE and let go of the brakes.
Allow 30 seconds to pass by.
After 30 seconds, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a complete stop.
Put the gear into neutral and let go of brakes.
Allow 30 seconds to pass by.
After 30 seconds, put the gear into D4
Allow it to spin for 30 seconds
After 30 seconds pass by, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a stop.
Put the gear into D3
Allow the wheel to spin for 30 seconds
After 30 seconds pass, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a stop
Put the gear into 2
Allow the wheel to spin for 30 seconds
After 30 seconds pass, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a stop
Put the gear into 1
Allow the wheel to spin for 30 seconds
After 30 seconds pass, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a stop
Now you do the same steps, from 1, then 2, then D3, then D4, then Neutral, then Reverse and finally PARK.
After you cycle all of the gears with 30 seconds per gear, shut the car off in park, and lower the vehicle back onto the ground.
Check the transmission dipstick for fluid level to see if it is low or full.
If it is not full, pour in half a quart, jack up the car and run the gears in the air again until the level is up to the full line.
FYI, the transmission really holds over 6 quarts total of fluid, when you do a drain and fill, your only removing 33-50% of the old fluid, and replacing it with fresh fluid. For best results following the above procedure several times at short intervals should help significantly. Example, drive 500 miles, then drain and fill, another 1500 drain and fill, 3000, etc until your fluid starts coming out cleaner. Also only use Honda ATF or GM Sycromesh (I personally can't vouch for syncromesh) but I've tried several different atf fluids, and it caused severely hard random shifts from 1st to second every 3000k miles, probably what damaged a couple of my motor mounts shortly after I aquired my cb7.)
If you were to have your transmission flushed by a machine, I would make sure that they use only one of the two atf fluids mentioned above for the procedure, and we all know that much fluid honda atf isn't cheap.Last edited by cloudasc; 04-26-2012, 04:47 PM.
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostDrain and fill. Never "flush".
Drain, fill, drive, repeat... that's the way to ensure you get all the old fluid out, as draining it once doesn't get it all.
Ok thanks. How many times i do itKeep It Low, And Drive It Slow
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89 CRX dx with a 94 del so Si swap - deceased 91 civic hatchback Si with a JDM ZC SOHC swap-sold 92 CB7 accord sedan - living but stock
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Originally posted by Junior Smurff View PostNot trying to thread jack, but would you use the same Honda ATF for manuals??
Its cool...Keep It Low, And Drive It Slow
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89 CRX dx with a 94 del so Si swap - deceased 91 civic hatchback Si with a JDM ZC SOHC swap-sold 92 CB7 accord sedan - living but stock
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostDrain and fill. Never "flush".
Drain, fill, drive, repeat... that's the way to ensure you get all the old fluid out, as draining it once doesn't get it all.
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Originally posted by cloudasc View Post
FYI, the transmission really holds over 6 quarts total of fluid, when you do a drain and fill, your only removing 33-50% of the old fluid, and replacing it with fresh fluid. For best results following the above procedure several times at short intervals should help significantly. Example, drive 500 miles, then drain and fill, another 1500 drain and fill, 3000, etc until your fluid starts coming out cleaner. Also only use Honda ATF or GM Sycromesh (I personally can't vouch for syncromesh) but I've tried several different atf fluids, and it caused severely hard random shifts from 1st to second every 3000k miles, probably what damaged a couple of my motor mounts shortly after I aquired my cb7.)
If you were to have your transmission flushed by a machine, I would make sure that they use only one of the two atf fluids mentioned above for the procedure, and we all know that much fluid honda atf isn't cheap.Keep It Low, And Drive It Slow
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89 CRX dx with a 94 del so Si swap - deceased 91 civic hatchback Si with a JDM ZC SOHC swap-sold 92 CB7 accord sedan - living but stock
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Originally posted by 713_JDM_CB7 View PostThanks bro.. u mind helping me out one day.. since u in htown
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