IDLE PROBLEM on turing the AC on?

[saqi44]

i am having the Idle from in my F20A CB7,,,, 2 months back while changing the Transmission, i noticed that one of the Injectors was leaking,,and the technician put a washer into it and problem was solved,

1) the injector was leaking and Washer was put into it and leakage was stopped
2) Canister is broken from the TOP,only one pipe can not be fitted,,,

3) i have set the RPM on 1100 on Warm and on turning on the AC, the RPM drops till 300-400 and start studdering

4) i have never changed the fuel filter


,,, i will change the fuel filter today,,but IAC valve have been cleaned,,,what else?what further step shud i go to?is canister that important?

[saqi44]

ahem ahem?

[saqi44]

it would be very nice if someone would help me out of this,,,? only if i turn the AC on,,,the RPM drops, i have set the normal RPM at 1400,,,and on turning the AC on, it drops to 800 RPM and sometimes when i apply brakes, the RPM goes too low that the engine turns off,, the rest of the things are perfect, the thing i noticed is,when ever i press the accelerator, the RPM drops and goes up,,eg if the normal RPM with AC on is 800, when i slowly push the accelerator down, the RPM will first come to 400 and then will rise up,,,

i have never changed the fuel filter,,,Spark Plug high tension cords have been changed, no oil in the plugs, no miss firing, cleaned the IAC valve and have checked the FIV,,,,what and from where shud i start

Please?

[dj_ender]

it would be very nice if someone would help me out of this,,,? only if i turn the AC on,,,the RPM drops, i have set the normal RPM at 1400,,,and on turning the AC on, it drops to 800 RPM and sometimes when i apply brakes, the RPM goes too low that the engine turns off,, the rest of the things are perfect, the thing i noticed is,when ever i press the accelerator, the RPM drops and goes up,,eg if the normal RPM with AC on is 800, when i slowly push the accelerator down, the RPM will first come to 400 and then will rise up,,,

i have never changed the fuel filter,,,Spark Plug high tension cords have been changed, no oil in the plugs, no miss firing, cleaned the IAC valve and have checked the FIV,,,,what and from where shud i start

Please?

Sounds like your cam to crank timing is off a tooth, or 2.

[LastToBrake]

Sounds like your cam to crank timing is off a tooth, or 2.

Most likely something timing related. When the A/C pump kicks on and causes "drag" it's knocking the timing too far out.

[saqi44]

hmmmm,,got that,,,, thanx alot ,,,,, i will take it to a workshop and will tell him to adjust the timing

[90blackcoupe]

Sounds like your cam to crank timing is off a tooth, or 2.

Dude seriously? I've told you this before and I'll say it again, go to school you know nothing. Where do you come up with some of these things?, o and btw ps: not using a ridge reamer will damage the bore and will cause your piston rings to stick to the ridge upon removal thus breaking the lands, dude if you had broken land you would have no compression forget about oil burning no compression means no start, you claimed you had oil burning thats cause of the worn out rings, not cause of broken lands, you broke the lands cause you didnt know what you were doing no worrys mistakes happen good thing it was your car and not a customers, you live and learn, dont take everything to heart mean its called "life"

Most likely something timing related. When the A/C pump kicks on and causes "drag" it's knocking the timing too far out.

lol good job there junior, another goof


to the op:

the iacv is what operates idle, any load on the crankshaft will be detected by the iacv and it will turn the stepper motor to bypass more air past the throttle plate so the idle maintains.

Your idle is too high to start with, and it sounds like your iacv is not operating.

Check black/yellow wire for 12v constant power coming from ignition switch, and check to see if on the black/blue wire there is also 12v key on. You will find both wires on the plug of the iacv, the yellow/black is turn on from ignition switch check for open between switch and plug, and back/blue is trigger wire from ecu/pcm. If no power from black/blue check for open in wiring if everything else checks out, see if there is 12v coming from ecu/pcm.

You can test the iacv with a dvom (multimeter) should have between 11-14 ohms resistance

[dj_ender]

You can test the iacv with a dvom (multimeter) should have between 11-14 ohms resistance

Maybe YOU should learn a few things, it's 8-15. Idiot.

[LastToBrake]

Thanks for the useful information and useless sarcasm.

[dj_ender]

Thanks for the useful information and useless sarcasm.

It's what we do here. Go back to SB.

[90blackcoupe]

Maybe YOU should learn a few things, it's 8-15. Idiot.

o really? I think i'll stick with my 11-14, good job there though.


know good iacv from a f22a6, I got a few more lying around want me to snap pictures of all of them?lol they all read no lower then 11 and no higher then 14.

[Bad_dude]

90blackcoupe is correct on this I would bet. The best way to test the valve without having a voltmeter is have some one turn on the AC while you are at the valve. The idle should drop a little when the AC turns on but you should hear a click and the idle recovers if the valve is working correctly.

There also clues when you set your base timing on how this valve works.

Try that. Did you do any to your car recently to may have caused this?

[dj_ender]

90blackcoupe is correct on this I would bet. The best way to test the valve without having a voltmeter is have some one turn on the AC while you are at the valve. The idle should drop a little when the AC turns on but you should hear a click and the idle recovers if the valve is working correctly.

There also clues when you set your base timing on how this valve works.

Try that. Did you do any to your car recently to may have caused this?

You can also remove the iacv, hit the 2 pins with power and ground. You willsee the plunger move, reverse the wires and the plunger should move the other way.

[Ralphie]

The useless banter back and forth is not really necessary.

As has been stated, OP, your idle is way to high.

I believe it should be between 850-1000

Raising it will not help anything as there is an optimal number and if it isn't there, then it will only complicate things.

When the a/c kicks on it should drop the idle a tad but the idle should recover immediately.

That's normal as the a/c is a big load on the system.

[PR CB7]

Timing is off, are you serious?
First start by checking the resistance of the iac then the voltage of going to the iac, make sire you have 12v going to it, and make sure there's no cell for iac, then with the iac connected use a voltmeter and check the voltage of the iac at idle, (don't mind the voltage at idle since every car is.different) pay attention to the voltage when you turn on the a/c as it should increase opening the stepper motor. If voltage stays the same the ecu is not sending the idle up signal try a different ecu
Timing......... Rookies