f1 racing clutch or xtr

[92accord ex]

which clutch kit is better a f1 or the xtr?

[nine_deuce]

Neither. If you want to get a good clutch, get an Exedy. And unless you're boosted, I'd stay away from stage 2, stage 3, whatever. They won't do you a bit of good. And when you replace the clutch, look for an OEM throw out bearing, or Nachi... I've heard they are OEM as well.

[spade]

My friend bout the f1 racing kit with a flywheel for his cb7 for 280$ on ebay. Its pretty good

[92accord ex]

how about this this one is a exedy but a oem one is this one good and how about the throw out bearning. http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-OE-OEM...eb6c0f&vxp=mtr

[nine_deuce]

That one looks very similar to the one I bought. I'd say go for it

[deevergote]

Exedy is good. OEM quality (actually, it's basically OEM.)

F1 is crap. XTR/XTD is crap.

Unless you're putting down massive amounts of power, you don't need a "performance" clutch. Get a quality clutch that is made to hold the power you are putting down.

[92accord ex]

Exedy is good. OEM quality (actually, it's basically OEM.)

F1 is crap. XTR/XTD is crap.

Unless you're putting down massive amounts of power, you don't need a "performance" clutch. Get a quality clutch that is made to hold the power you are putting down.

no i have the basic really f22a6, headers, 2.25 piping to catback, cold air intake. i was thing about the exedy oem clutch with the fidianza 8 pound fly wheel

[deevergote]

That would work just fine. 8lb is quite light, though. I had an 11lb and I was happy with that. The difference was noticeable.
Be warned, you WILL stall a few times with a light flywheel before you get used to it!

[92accord ex]

That would work just fine. 8lb is quite light, though. I had an 11lb and I was happy with that. The difference was noticeable.
Be warned, you WILL stall a few times with a light flywheel before you get used to it!

besides the weight whats the difference? which is better

[deevergote]

It's up to you, really. If you have plans on going turbo, I suggest not getting a lightweight one at all, or at least not as light as 8lbs. For N/A, lighter is always better... but keep daily driving in mind. You don't want a car that's a pain in the ass to drive normally.

[nine_deuce]

With a lightened flywheel, as fast as your RPMs climb, when you push in the clutch to shift gears, they'll drop just as fast. And you MAY run into clutch chatter (not 100% on that, never had a lightened flywheel)

[92accord ex]

It's up to you, really. If you have plans on going turbo, I suggest not getting a lightweight one at all, or at least not as light as 8lbs. For N/A, lighter is always better... but keep daily driving in mind. You don't want a car that's a pain in the ass to drive normally.

im not planing on going turbo and its not a daily driver so i should be all set

[deevergote]

In that case, go super light weight. It won't hurt anything, but it could be a pain in the ass if you drive it all over, especially in congested traffic areas. I replaced my flywheel when I did my clutch, using parts my friend had on hand. I'm not sure if he had a lightweight one, or a stock replacement. it's XTD crap (again), so it's only temporary.

When I say XTD (same as XTR) is crap, I'm speaking from experience!

[MortsAccord]

lightweight flywheels are something to do when replacing a clutch because it needs done. Not really a mod thats worth while to just go after as a "performance" mod.

Reason is it helps the engine accelerate in RPM faster- notice i said ENGINE- so the advantage in 1st gear is more prominent than 2nd , and 3rd, and so on. it yeilds diminishing returns for the most part. like pushing a car, once its moving it becomes easier and easier to push it faster, but breaking it loose at first is a bitch- good example of the flywheels diminishing returns.

Where it shines is for downshifting and revmatching. because of tis weight the engine will rise/fall in rpms a little more quickly, not that much. if you want to know about what its going to feel like just turn on your AC to max and the compressor will kind of simulate the extra ammount of gas it takes to break free from a stand still.

You also only need a clutch that will hold your engines torque. simply replace the stock throughout bearing and friction disk, you wont even need a new pressure plate unless you just feel like spending money.

Chatter should never be present once the clutch is fully engauged(foot off the pedal). more often than not this is due to unsprung friction disks. it could also be due to: a stronger than stock pressure plate, a worn throughout bearing, or even a new clutch, as sometimes they can chatter because the gap between flywheel and pressure plate is so miniscule before break-in is done it will "scratch" around in there a tiny bit. chatter is annoying at worst so if it happens dont sweat it.

Between flywheel and lightweight rims, choose the rims if you had money to spend.

I bought a set of stock size lightweight rims(motegi traklites) for my CD5 instead of the factory rims 9.9lbs vs 17 lbs, then got a 17 lb stock size tire instead of the 21-22 lb one i had. rotational weight savings per wheel - 10 lbs, 40 lbs total. Made the car feel remarkably different. Steering braking and acceleration were all improved, not to mention gas mileage.

Bottom line is just buy a stock clutch unless your adding some type of forced induction(nitro/super/turbo), or completely rebuilding the engine with high compression pistons.

[92accord ex]

thanks guys this is so much help thanks for the advice