Hesitation caused by fuel leak, Cannot identify faulty part F22a6

[velvitjones]

I just got my 92 EX Sedan back on the road. I've been driving it daily for 3 days now. On the second day I noticed a hesitation/bobble on throttle, when accelerating from a dead stop. I looked around under the hood, and noticed this part was damp. I touched the fluid, sniffed and determined it was fuel. There seems to be no spraying, or pouring of fuel out of this part, but just enough to wet whatever part it is. I have attached pix of what I believe is my problem. It is the 'golden' colored piece right behind the fuel rail. I figure it has enough of an escape of fuel to allow injector pressures to lower and cause my hesitation. It is the size of a 17mm socket. If anyone can identify this part for me, and give some advice on how to remedy this, I would appreciate it. Thanks ahead of time.

[dj_ender]

I just got my 92 EX Sedan back on the road. I've been driving it daily for 3 days now. On the second day I noticed a hesitation/bobble on throttle, when accelerating from a dead stop. I looked around under the hood, and noticed this part was damp. I touched the fluid, sniffed and determined it was fuel. There seems to be no spraying, or pouring of fuel out of this part, but just enough to wet whatever part it is. I have attached pix of what I believe is my problem. It is the 'golden' colored piece right behind the fuel rail. I figure it has enough of an escape of fuel to allow injector pressures to lower and cause my hesitation. It is the size of a 17mm socket. If anyone can identify this part for me, and give some advice on how to remedy this, I would appreciate it. Thanks ahead of time.

i can't see your pics, but I'm willing to bet it's the nut that bolts the fuel line to the rail.

[velvitjones]

i can't see your pics, but I'm willing to bet it's the nut that bolts the fuel line to the rail.

I'm on a computer in the office, so it doesnt surprise me that the pix are not showing up. It took some real ingenuity to even get them to present in the posting. I will work on that when I get off the clock and back at home.

In the meantime, I will attempt to describe where it is:
It's right behind the fuel rail. There is metal tubing that comes out behind it (directly towards the fire wall). That tube takes a 90 degree turn towards the passenger fender and connects to a rubber shielded hose (which I'm assuming is my fuel supply line).

Thats the best I can do for now as far as describing its location. I will hop on my computer at home and see about reposting the pix.

[dj_ender]

I'm on a computer in the office, so it doesnt surprise me that the pix are not showing up. It took some real ingenuity to even get them to present in the posting. I will work on that when I get off the clock and back at home.

In the meantime, I will attempt to describe where it is:
It's right behind the fuel rail. There is metal tubing that comes out behind it (directly towards the fire wall). That tube takes a 90 degree turn towards the passenger fender and connects to a rubber shielded hose (which I'm assuming is my fuel supply line).

Thats the best I can do for now as far as describing its location. I will hop on my computer at home and see about reposting the pix.

That's the fuel delivery line. And the big nut on top of it. Is the nut loose? If you go out to the car, pop the hood, and turn the acc on, the fuel pump will prime and put the system under pressure. Then you can try looking for fuel spraying.

[velvitjones]

That's the fuel delivery line. And the big nut on top of it. Is the nut loose? If you go out to the car, pop the hood, and turn the acc on, the fuel pump will prime and put the system under pressure. Then you can try looking for fuel spraying.

I just did that test about an hour ago. There is no spraying, just seepage. I figured since it was shaped like a bolt, I should just be able to tighten it, but it seemed like that line wanted to twist with bolt. I needed to make sure it is actually two different pieces (line and bolt) before I started cranking away and snap that line.

[dj_ender]

I just did that test about an hour ago. There is no spraying, just seepage. I figured since it was shaped like a bolt, I should just be able to tighten it, but it seemed like that line wanted to twist with bolt. I needed to make sure it is actually two different pieces (line and bolt) before I started cranking away and snap that line.

They are 2 pieces. And actually there should be 2 "arms" that hold the hard part of the line in place, one on each side of the line.

[velvitjones]

They are 2 pieces. And actually there should be 2 "arms" that hold the hard part of the line in place, one on each side of the line.

Those arms are there. They are between the bolt and the 90. I have my tool kit with me, so when I get the chance I will run out there and see if I cannot tighten it. Hopefully thats all it needs. Kinda odd that it back itself off, but any free fix is fine with me. Thanks for the help. As you can see I was completely lost haha.

By any chance do you know if there is an 'O' ring under the bolt to prevent this kind of thing? Maybe it will need to be replaced in the near future.

[dj_ender]

Those arms are there. They are between the bolt and the 90. I have my tool kit with me, so when I get the chance I will run out there and see if I cannot tighten it. Hopefully thats all it needs. Kinda odd that it back itself off, but any free fix is fine with me. Thanks for the help. As you can see I was completely lost haha.

By any chance do you know if there is an 'O' ring under the bolt to prevent this kind of thing? Maybe it will need to be replaced in the near future.

No there's only, i believe, 1 washer. On top of the line. don't over tighten that bolt, i mean, use some common sense. It shouldn't be loose, but don't use all your strength to tighten it.

[velvitjones]

No there's only, i believe, 1 washer. On top of the line. don't over tighten that bolt, i mean, use some common sense. It shouldn't be loose, but don't use all your strength to tighten it.

My common sense is what stopped me from trying too hard when I had the socket on the the first time. Not only do I suffer from a heavy right foot, but heavy hands too.

Thanks again!

[dj_ender]

My common sense is what stopped me from trying too hard when I had the socket on the the first time. Not only do I suffer from a heavy right foot, but heavy hands too.

Thanks again!

I would still watch the #4 injector, it could be spraying on that nut and line... If the fuel line is leaking, it's not a good thing. Try having someone turn the key while your in the bay watching with a flashlight, there should never be liquid gas on the engine.

[velvitjones]

I would still watch the #4 injector, it could be spraying on that nut and line... If the fuel line is leaking, it's not a good thing. Try having someone turn the key while your in the bay watching with a flashlight, there should never be liquid gas on the engine.

I'm glad I had someone at the ignition while I kept an eye under the hood. I did tighten that bolt less than and 1/8 turn is all the adjustment without using extreme force. That caused the seepage to become a stream. I had the ignition killed, removed the 1/8 turn, I dried the bolt with a rag, had the ignition turned on again and the stream stopped. Fired the car, and it ran way smoother than it had before any adjustment was made.

Dropped the hood, drove about 2 miles, and the CEL came on. After the light came on, when coming to stop my idle would drop and make the motor bobble, only to come back to an idle that was still smoother than before I started the adjustments. When I got home I checked the bolt, no dampness. I fired the car again, now no CEL.

So now I have eliminated the leak (seemingly), I have a CEL that seems to have cleared itself, and I also have low idle upon deceleration, yet no hesistation during acceleration.

Any thoughts?

[dj_ender]

I'm glad I had someone at the ignition while I kept an eye under the hood. I did tighten that bolt less than and 1/8 turn is all the adjustment without using extreme force. That caused the seepage to become a stream. I had the ignition killed, removed the 1/8 turn, I dried the bolt with a rag, had the ignition turned on again and the stream stopped. Fired the car, and it ran way smoother than it had before any adjustment was made.

Dropped the hood, drove about 2 miles, and the CEL came on. After the light came on, when coming to stop my idle would drop and make the motor bobble, only to come back to an idle that was still smoother than before I started the adjustments. When I got home I checked the bolt, no dampness. I fired the car again, now no CEL.

So now I have eliminated the leak (seemingly), I have a CEL that seems to have cleared itself, and I also have low idle upon deceleration, yet no hesistation during acceleration.

Any thoughts?

The CEL was probably for fuel system delivery. You can still try and pull a code, even though it's not showing. Try and pull the code and report back to us.


http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...k+engine+light

[Fleetw00d]

There are two metal washers, one on top and one below the "banjo" fitting. These are meant to be crushed once when the nut is tightened. If they have been disturbed, you might get them to seal, but I recommend getting a new set and installing them with proper torque on the nut (16 ft-lb).

[velvitjones]

I have had that thread printed, and highlighted since I joined the site..I actually read the rules haha. Thanks for directing me to that CEL procedure though. What I didnt know is that I could possibly pull codes when the light was not on.
I will try to pull the code as soon as I get the chance. Taking a road trip this weeked..so I'm glad the CB got me thru the beginning of the week while I tuned up the other ride.

Fleetw00d thanks for sharing those specs. I will definitely keep that in mind.

[djcaz_aom]

As fleetw00d said, it is the crush washers that need replacing. One on top, the other on bottom. They are the same washers used on the fuel filter.