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h22 swap done but the car wont move

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    h22 swap done but the car wont move

    Ok so i just finishd my h22 swap, still got idle problems and the main problem is the car doesnt move ?? it drives like 5 mph ? What can that be

    #2
    Who did the swap? To be honest, it could be any number of things, mechanical or electrical. Is your check engine light on? If so you could retrieve the codes from the ECU and go from there.

    More than likely it probably has something to do with the driver seat to steering wheel user interface.
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      #3
      Yea i did the swap lol it was my first h swap. but yea check engine light is on maybe cause it has a bad idle i revs up and down, and could it be the throttle cable. ?

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        #4
        It can be that or a air flow sensor or pressure regulator
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          #5
          Originally posted by ricancb7 View Post
          Yea i did the swap lol it was my first h swap. but yea check engine light is on maybe cause it has a bad idle i revs up and down, and could it be the throttle cable. ?
          The surging idle doesn't always throw a CEL code. That issue is most times caused by a vacuum leak of some sort. Maybe a leaking gasket or vacuum hose being cracked or missing.

          We can sit here and take guesses at what it could be all day..... Best option would be to check your ECU for the diagnostic trouble codes. They will be more likely to point you in the right direction.
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            #6
            You probably mixed up the map and tps plugs, they look the same but if mismatched your car will go into limp mode
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              #7
              what year h22 and what ecu are you using?
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                #8
                Whats limp mode ?? and its a 92 h22a1 and can some one tell me where tps n map are ? is the map on top of the throttle body and im runing a p28 chipped

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                  #9
                  "Limp Home Mode" or as Honda refers to it as the Fail safe Back up mode. Is when the ECU is missing signals from vital sensors and it reverts to a safe set of fuel and ignition maps. It will not allow the engine to rev over 3500 rpm. It is usually enough so that you can get the car off the road or "Limp Home".

                  The TPS is on the fire wall side of your throttle body and the MAP should be on top of the throttle body.

                  If the CEL is on then you can still retrieve the codes from the chipped P28 ECU by using the self diagnostics paperclip method.

                  Or you could find someone with a laptop, tuning software (Crome, eCtune or Neptune) and the proper hardware to hook it up and actually tune it!

                  What basemap do you have on your chipped P28? Do you know if this ECU has ever worked in another car?
                  Last edited by GhostAccord; 02-29-2012, 02:44 PM.
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                    #10
                    So my car must be in limp mode cause thats what its doing it drives very slowly, im check those two sensors and see if it works

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                      #11
                      Why don't you pull the codes first? It will save you from random sensor checking.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by djcaz_aom View Post
                        Why don't you pull the codes first? It will save you from random sensor checking.
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                          #13
                          Ok i fixed the prob. of the car going 5 mph it was the speed sensor now my car keeps shuttig off ? I changed the main relay and im going to pull codes tomorow, can it be a ground prob ?

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                            #14
                            It very well could be a ground problem. I replaced the f in my sisters accord and a loose thermostat ground gave me shit for hours until I found it.

                            Pull codes...over and out.

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                              #15
                              loose thermo ground or disconnected on can cause major amounts of problems had that happen to me before and the saftey switch for the shifter clicked with my turn signals start it grab a papper clip and look under the passenger side glove box for the code puller and read the codes on the cel if you dont know how to do that then you should have someone who knows what there doing look over the engine chances are if this is your first swap you got a vacuum line mixed up or like ghost said you have a sensor problem just pull the codes kid

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