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Tranny shifts hard

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    Tranny shifts hard

    Hi All

    I own a 92' LX with F22A1 motor and auto tranny.

    I replaced the front and rear mount very recently, because I suspected the damaged mounts were causing my transmission to "kick" and move my motor around when it would shift through its' gears.

    So I have new mounts now, and the (2)two side mounts are in great shape, but my transmission still "bang" or "kick" when it selects gears. It auto shifts at @ 3000 / 3500 rpm.

    I've checked the tranny oil, it's a bit dark but its not particularly dirty.

    I don't understand what's going on. Sometimes, especially when the motor is warm and I am beginingto slow down, my gear quickly shifts down, and I get jerked in my seat. Same for when I step on the pedal after completing a slow turn.

    Thanks for looking All.

    Thanks all.

    #2
    sounds like it may be going. Time to shop around.

    Smell the fluid, if it smells burnt...change it....it may or may not help.
    What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

    You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

    Retro!

    Hater

    I love nooBs...They make me look good

    Comment


      #3
      Check the fluid condition, might need to get some new stuff in there.
      wat?

      Comment


        #4
        First off, you probably haven't changed your transmission fluid.

        Here are the steps to a proper drain and fill for the automatic transmission:

        You will need a 3/8 ratchet, a transmission funnel, a jack and jack stands and 3 bottles of Honda ATF (automatic transmission fluid)

        Loosen the passenger front wheel, jack the car up and remove the passenger wheel.
        On the transmission by the radius rod, there is a square indentation on the transmission.
        That is where the 3/8 ratchet fits into perfectly.
        Loosen that bolt and drain all of the transmission fluid.

        When the fluid runs down to near empty, close up the drain plug, put the wheel back on and torque it to specs when you lower the car back on the ground.

        Now go under the hood and towards the front of the car, by the lower radiator hose, look for the little dipstick that sticks into the transmission.
        Pull that out, and using a transmission funnel, pour in 1 quart of Honda ATF.
        Check under car for leaks, if it leaks, then you forgot to tighten the drain plug. If no leak, proceed.
        Pour the 2nd bottle of Honda ATF into the transmission, then replace the dipstick.

        Now the part where you break your back, lol

        Start the car, let it warm up to normal operating temperature.
        Raise the car so both front wheels are off the ground.
        Sitting inside the driver seat, put the gear into REVERSE and let go of the brakes.
        Allow 30 seconds to pass by.
        After 30 seconds, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a complete stop.
        Put the gear into neutral and let go of brakes.
        Allow 30 seconds to pass by.
        After 30 seconds, put the gear into D4
        Allow it to spin for 30 seconds
        After 30 seconds pass by, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a stop.
        Put the gear into D3
        Allow the wheel to spin for 30 seconds
        After 30 seconds pass, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a stop
        Put the gear into 2
        Allow the wheel to spin for 30 seconds
        After 30 seconds pass, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a stop
        Put the gear into 1
        Allow the wheel to spin for 30 seconds
        After 30 seconds pass, slowly press on the brake pedal to slow down the wheels to a stop

        Now you do the same steps, from 1, then 2, then D3, then D4, then Neutral, then Reverse and finally PARK.

        After you cycle all of the gears with 30 seconds per gear, shut the car off in park, and lower the vehicle back onto the ground.

        Check the transmission dipstick for fluid level to see if it is low or full.
        If it is not full, pour in half a quart, jack up the car and run the gears in the air again until the level is up to the full line.


        The downshifting can probably be solved by your throttle cable line. Make sure it has slack in it.





        Now hit the reputation bar on the left

        <<<<<

        MRT

        Comment


          #5
          The fluid can really cause my tranny to shift roughly? I mean it feels as if my tranny is trying to take down a quarterback..

          Comment


            #6
            How much slack in the TC? Enough to hold my car tranny from moving after I release the brakes?

            Comment


              #7
              Fluid can cause the transmission to shift rough. Black fluid is not a good sign. The fluid should be purple like (Honda ATF)
              And while you have the transmission drained, take off the shift solenoids and clean out the screens on them as well.

              is your D4 or S light flashing?

              Your throttle cable should have enough slack where it will bend a bit when you tug at it with your finger. If there is no tug and the line is stiff, loosen it.

              MRT

              Comment


                #8
                My tranny fluid is pink. And My D4 light has never turned on since I've owned my cb. Neither on the dash or selector. No "s" light either.

                As for the the throttle cable, you mean when I tug at the end, by the tranny, right?

                Also, what solenoid do you refer to when you say remove and clean? I have no idea where it is located.

                Also, thanks you very much for the detailed DIY tranny fluid change, daovangphotos

                Comment


                  #9
                  Purple fluid.... Yeah no.

                  Fluid should be clear cherry red.

                  If it has a brown tint or smells burnt you will want to drain and fill. Don't mind all that nonsense up there.. Drain, clean magnate, fill, take it around the block and check the level. You probably should wait a few hundred miles before doing it again unless you really want to.
                  wat?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by android_proball View Post
                    My tranny fluid is pink. And My D4 light has never turned on since I've owned my cb. Neither on the dash or selector. No "s" light either.

                    As for the the throttle cable, you mean when I tug at the end, by the tranny, right?

                    Also, what solenoid do you refer to when you say remove and clean? I have no idea where it is located.

                    Also, thanks you very much for the detailed DIY tranny fluid change, daovangphotos
                    The slack is for the gas throttle line in front of the intake manifold that connects to the throttle body.

                    They transmission solenoids are located in front of the transmission. It is below the starter, near the lower radiator hose by the dipstick of the transmission.

                    MRT

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